The crackling of the fire, the glug of red wine, a raise of an eyebrow and the silent nod. In our house, this means one thing: it’s time to produce the cheese board. A Christmas tradition, placing that wooden board on the coffee table comes with silent but significant connotations. It is only assembled when everybody has arrived home, it signals the start of Christmas, together once again for another year. A heated discussion ensues – the best cheese, the mix and match of chutneys and the all-important question: red or white? Moments like this are memories made.

“That’s the beauty of the cheese board; it’s there to be enjoyed,” says Kevin Sheridan of Sheridans Cheesemongers. “Of course, we have recommendations on fantastic Irish cheese and what combinations of flavours will satisfy different palettes. However, the No 1 rule is there are no rules – choose the cheese you love and have fun trying new flavours. Approach it with this attitude and it makes the cheese board accessible to all.”

In the same way, there is no perfect time to serve. It also doesn’t have to be saved specifically for after Christmas dinner.

“There are so many flavours on display on the day itself, the turkey, the trimmings, a heavy Christmas dessert. Sometimes the cheese can be lost if served straight after the meal. Start into it in the run-up to the big day, or when everybody is sitting around watching the nine o’clock film on Christmas night, sick to their gills of Roses. This is often when it is enjoyed most.”

When deciding on the combination of flavours, Kevin says the pot-luck approach works but often it’s best to put one person on the job. “We’ve had stories from customers who have great fun putting it together. Each year, the responsibility rotates and someone in the family is assigned the task and it’s up to them to impress. When this happens, people get really into it as they are keen to prove their selection. One hint when serving is to take your cheese out of the fridge about an hour beforehand to let it breath. If it’s served too cold, you won’t experience the flavours as well.

“We’ve selected six Irish cheeses that work great together, but don’t forget to add your personal touch. Then get cosy, relax and enjoy. The cheese board may be a relatively new tradition for some families but it actually goes back to the ritual of the winter feast. On those dark, cold evenings, when all the fresh food was gone, people would have gone to the pantry and all the berries and stuff that has been stored since harvest time is cracked open and we get this feeling of summer. Mature cheese that is made from summer milk is the perfect addition to the feast,” Kevin says.

1 // Wicklow Bán

From some, it’s the blue; for others, a cheese board simply isn’t complete without a bit of brie, and this Wicklow farmhouse cheese is sure to get the conversation going. Kevin says: “Creamy and goey, this soft cheese is as the name suggests – milky white in colour and a great addition aesthetically. Made by John and Bernie Hempenstall on their farm at Curranstown in Co Wicklow, it a double cream cheese with a bloomy rind. An accessible palette-pleaser to ease you into your cheese experience, it has a full creamy flavour with a mild, rich finish.”

2 // Killeen Goat’s Cheese

People tend to have a love-hate relationship with goat’s cheese. Some can’t get enough while others find it overpowering. However, Kevin says to throw away preconceived ideas and embrace this cheese. “Marion Roeleveld outside Ballinasloe in Galway uses the gouda making technique and what she achieves with her young cheese is fantastic. Goat’s cheese is at its best when it’s subtle and fresh, and Killeen’s is just that. It’s not overpowering or pungent – it’s light and sweet with a lovely floral aroma and nutty tones. We find it’s a real favourite among children.”

3 // Durrus Farmhouse Cheese

Time to step things up a notch with Durrus Farmhouse Cheese, which has an earthy feel and a longer flavour. “Jeffa Gill in west Cork has had her hands in the curd for as long as anybody in the Irish cheese business can remember,” says Kevin. “Sticking out into the Atlantic, the salt water washes over the grass and you can taste the influence of the ocean with the cheese. Washed rinds tend to result in those really stinky cheeses. Durrus is a lot more delicate. It would still be on the curvaceous side of things but it’s also very earthy and herbal.”

4 // Coolea

From the hills of Coolea, near Macroom, this is a crowd-pleaser. “Dick and Helene Willems arrived to Ireland in the 1970s from Holland. Helene missed the Dutch gouda and started making her own. It has grown into a fantastic product, and their son Dick Jr has taken over the business. The Coolea you’ll be enjoying this Christmas comes from milk that has been matured for the last 18 months, creating a robust flavour. However, it still retains a delicate nature, from the floral aromas of the summer milk. You’ll detect sweet flavours – almost fudgy and toffee in nature.”

5 // Sheridans 15 Fields Cheddar

Sheridans have joined forces with Eamon Lonergan in Waterford. “Fantastic raw milk from summer grazing on Eamon’s farm, experimentation and tweaking of the original recipe, and then maturation in our warehouse in Meath has led to a cheddar we are really happy with. It is ready at eight months but we found that it can continue to improve up to 18 months. 15 Fields has a gentle nutty sweetness with an earthy background. It has a full mouth flavour and gentle acidity so it will sit proudly as one of the more powerful offerings on your cheese board.”

6 // Crozier Blue

For some, a bit of blue cheese is a must to complete a cheese board and while many opt for Cashel Blue, it’s worth experimenting with Crozier Blue – another fine creation by the Grubb family in Tipperary. Kevin says: “Because Crozier is made with summer sheep’s milk, you can mature it for longer, resulting in a bigger flavour. It’s got that classic sweet and salty combination but it’s a little more complex. You pick up notes of vanilla, a syrupy flavour which rests on that herby savoury background. It’s got a beautiful soft squishy texture – buttery, nearly.”

From cocktails to canapés and from dinners to desserts, find more Christmas recipes from Irish Country Living's food magazine online every weekend in December.