Anyone who has seen the film Lost in Translation will understand the desire to visit Japan, a country capable of making visitors feel welcome and stranded on another planet all at once. Attracted by the reputation of springtime Japanese cherry blossoms, I visited the main island of Honshu in early April before travelling to Hokkaido in the north on an Irish Farmers Journal reporting trip.
Once the delicate pink flowers appear on the branches, thousands of Japanese people, otherwise politely restrained, seem to be contaminated by a wave of national giddiness. Giant picnics take place in the parks, and crowds wander along city canals, pink cocktail in one hand, mobile phone in the other to snap pictures of the blossoms in a state of childish marvel. It’s easy to join in and feel part of something special.
Any other season would make a trip to Japan worthwhile, though, and probably cheaper and less crowded too – the country has so much to offer. Starting in Kyoto, we chose a two-day guided tour to navigate the myriad of historic sites dotted around the country’s former capital. This turned out to be the best option, with our Japanese guides providing a wealth of information useful for our own exploration afterwards.
Kyoto has countless Zen Buddhist temples dedicated to finding inner peace. This translates into pared-down gardens with impeccably raked gravel and patiently shaped trees. If you have been fighting moss as a weed at home, Japan may not be for you: it is cultivated for its soft and soothing aspect at many temples!
Onwards from Kyoto, we travelled by train on the unlimited pass reserved for foreign tourists. Japan’s super-efficient rail network is an attraction in itself, and transport information is clearly displayed in English everywhere.
Kanazawa, on the west coast, provided the best garden experience of all: Kenroku-en, a vast haven of lakes, streams and copses at the heart of the city. There, we also found a friendly art museum where teenagers meet and wear traditional kimonos while hanging out around open-air sculptures.
A short stay in the central mountains on the Nakasendo hiking trail provided some nice walking spots and beautifully preserved villages, but the heavily built-up countryside was less attractive than guidebooks would lead you to believe.
Finally, Tokyo lived up to its Lost In Translation reputation: multi-storey neon lights shone above the constant movement of millions of people, multi-storey electronics stores made us dizzy with screens and loudspeakers, and all-night internet cafés filled with young fans of manga and video games. There was more history available, including from the great national museum, though after Kyoto we were more in the mood for cherry blossom partying.
Food was exquisite, as in the rest of the country, though not for the faint-hearted: once you accept that you will have no idea what you’re eating at least once a day, the delicate dumplings, mysterious vegetables and translucent desserts become an enjoyable adventure. The chances are there will be raw fish, but as a visit to Tokyo’s giant Tsujiki wholesale fish market allowed us to establish, it’s always fresh.
If you get tired of surprises, most restaurants display photos or plastic replicas of their signature dishes: just point – Japanese waiters, just like the rest of the population, will do the impossible to please you.
Read Thomas Hubert’s reporting on farming in Japan: ifj.ie/japan
• Flights with Emirates Airlines booked through Trailfinders in Dublin came in at €1,021 return, flying into Osaka and out of Tokyo. The connection in Dubai is quick and convenient.• A Japan rail pass covering unlimited nationwide travel costs €236 for seven days, €376 for 14 days or €481 for 21 days for an adult. Children under 12 pay half price. Booked before leaving Ireland through travel agents or www.japan-rail-pass.com.• A walking tour is the perfect way to find your feet on arrival. The two-day Kyoto package offered by Walk Japan (www.walkjapan.com) costs €400 per person including site visits, transport within the city and lunch. • The range of accommodation is very wide, from capsule hotels offering a simple berth and a locker from €40 per night in city centres to luxury palaces, with many hotels around the €100 mark for a double room. Most offer online booking websites in English or are listed on international reservation websites such as www.booking.com or www.hotels.com,• Irish citizens can obtain a free tourist visa on arrival at international airports.>> Hidden gems
Some of the most exciting visits on this trip were not on the main tourist trail.
Rakushi-sha: A Kyoto temple boasting an exquisite moss garden, haunted by the poet who lived there centuries ago.Ameyoko market: A welcome escape from Japanese restraint and politeness, this bustling Tokyo market features messy stalls, raucous bars and excellent noodle restaurants.Zoetrope bar: This is a one-man operation in the middle of a nondescript Tokyo tower block, with 200 Japanese whiskies to choose from and a mixture of kung fu and Hollywood classics on the big screen.Hookaido: Harsh winter, wild nature and open spaces in this northern region form the environment of some of the world’s most innovative farmers.Read Thomas Hubert's reporting on farming in Japan: ifj.ie/japan
Anyone who has seen the film Lost in Translation will understand the desire to visit Japan, a country capable of making visitors feel welcome and stranded on another planet all at once. Attracted by the reputation of springtime Japanese cherry blossoms, I visited the main island of Honshu in early April before travelling to Hokkaido in the north on an Irish Farmers Journal reporting trip.
Once the delicate pink flowers appear on the branches, thousands of Japanese people, otherwise politely restrained, seem to be contaminated by a wave of national giddiness. Giant picnics take place in the parks, and crowds wander along city canals, pink cocktail in one hand, mobile phone in the other to snap pictures of the blossoms in a state of childish marvel. It’s easy to join in and feel part of something special.
Any other season would make a trip to Japan worthwhile, though, and probably cheaper and less crowded too – the country has so much to offer. Starting in Kyoto, we chose a two-day guided tour to navigate the myriad of historic sites dotted around the country’s former capital. This turned out to be the best option, with our Japanese guides providing a wealth of information useful for our own exploration afterwards.
Kyoto has countless Zen Buddhist temples dedicated to finding inner peace. This translates into pared-down gardens with impeccably raked gravel and patiently shaped trees. If you have been fighting moss as a weed at home, Japan may not be for you: it is cultivated for its soft and soothing aspect at many temples!
Onwards from Kyoto, we travelled by train on the unlimited pass reserved for foreign tourists. Japan’s super-efficient rail network is an attraction in itself, and transport information is clearly displayed in English everywhere.
Kanazawa, on the west coast, provided the best garden experience of all: Kenroku-en, a vast haven of lakes, streams and copses at the heart of the city. There, we also found a friendly art museum where teenagers meet and wear traditional kimonos while hanging out around open-air sculptures.
A short stay in the central mountains on the Nakasendo hiking trail provided some nice walking spots and beautifully preserved villages, but the heavily built-up countryside was less attractive than guidebooks would lead you to believe.
Finally, Tokyo lived up to its Lost In Translation reputation: multi-storey neon lights shone above the constant movement of millions of people, multi-storey electronics stores made us dizzy with screens and loudspeakers, and all-night internet cafés filled with young fans of manga and video games. There was more history available, including from the great national museum, though after Kyoto we were more in the mood for cherry blossom partying.
Food was exquisite, as in the rest of the country, though not for the faint-hearted: once you accept that you will have no idea what you’re eating at least once a day, the delicate dumplings, mysterious vegetables and translucent desserts become an enjoyable adventure. The chances are there will be raw fish, but as a visit to Tokyo’s giant Tsujiki wholesale fish market allowed us to establish, it’s always fresh.
If you get tired of surprises, most restaurants display photos or plastic replicas of their signature dishes: just point – Japanese waiters, just like the rest of the population, will do the impossible to please you.
Read Thomas Hubert’s reporting on farming in Japan: ifj.ie/japan
• Flights with Emirates Airlines booked through Trailfinders in Dublin came in at €1,021 return, flying into Osaka and out of Tokyo. The connection in Dubai is quick and convenient.• A Japan rail pass covering unlimited nationwide travel costs €236 for seven days, €376 for 14 days or €481 for 21 days for an adult. Children under 12 pay half price. Booked before leaving Ireland through travel agents or www.japan-rail-pass.com.• A walking tour is the perfect way to find your feet on arrival. The two-day Kyoto package offered by Walk Japan (www.walkjapan.com) costs €400 per person including site visits, transport within the city and lunch. • The range of accommodation is very wide, from capsule hotels offering a simple berth and a locker from €40 per night in city centres to luxury palaces, with many hotels around the €100 mark for a double room. Most offer online booking websites in English or are listed on international reservation websites such as www.booking.com or www.hotels.com,• Irish citizens can obtain a free tourist visa on arrival at international airports.>> Hidden gems
Some of the most exciting visits on this trip were not on the main tourist trail.
Rakushi-sha: A Kyoto temple boasting an exquisite moss garden, haunted by the poet who lived there centuries ago.Ameyoko market: A welcome escape from Japanese restraint and politeness, this bustling Tokyo market features messy stalls, raucous bars and excellent noodle restaurants.Zoetrope bar: This is a one-man operation in the middle of a nondescript Tokyo tower block, with 200 Japanese whiskies to choose from and a mixture of kung fu and Hollywood classics on the big screen.Hookaido: Harsh winter, wild nature and open spaces in this northern region form the environment of some of the world’s most innovative farmers.Read Thomas Hubert's reporting on farming in Japan: ifj.ie/japan
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