Best practice for washing and housing your kit

With the price of new machinery seemingly on the up year on year, the value of used secondhand kit has never been better. To keep the value of what you have in the yard as high as possible, keeping it greased, clean and washed for the off-season should be a top priority.

With most cattle housed and heavy rain having halted most field work, farmers and contractors need to ensure their kit is washed and housed, if not already done. Below, we take a look at what power-washer options are available and outline some advice around detergents and correctly storing your kit this winter.

When it comes to cleaning down machines before washing, a number of tools are vital, such as a compressor with an airline and an industrial vacuum cleaner.

It goes without saying that the correct PPE gear, such as goggles and a dust mask, should be used. If you don’t own either, they can be hired from tool hire companies. A disposable boiler suit may even be a worthwhile investment when blowing down the dusty machinery, such as combines, balers etc. When gearing up a compressor, the use of a steel lance or long piece of pipe helps to keep the point of action away from the user.

Power washer options

A power washer is a must-have piece of equipment and a good model is a worthwhile investment.

There are multiple brands and configurations on the market, but generally price reflects quality and performance.

Nozzle

The correct jet should be used on a particular surface type. For example, a turbo nozzle is best suited to concrete. This nozzle type has a high-speed rotary jet, causing water to hit the surface at multiple angles in a pencil-thin highly-pressurised stream.

It can cause serious damage to wood or painted surfaces. So ensure a wide fan jet (25°C to 40°C) is used for washing machinery. This disperses the jet of water across a larger area.

When applying detergent via a power washer, do so at low pressure using a dedicated foaming lance and bottle. This causes the liquid detergent to mix with the air and create a thick foam, which sticks to the machine instead of running off instantly. Let the detergent soak for a minute or two, but not long enough that it dries on the surface. Then wash off thoroughly.

Petrol or diesel engine

One of the more common options on the market is the petrol engine washer due to its portability and performance. This is a key area in which you get what you pay for.

Our advice would be to buy a reputable brand pump and engine combination. There are a range of engine sizes and pump sizes to choose from, but generally an agricultural contractor or someone doing quite a bit of washing will require something with a bit of power.

Something in the region of a 6.5hp to 13hp engine fitted with a 140 to 200bar, 12 to 21l/min pump will be plenty. Prices for a reputable brand will range from €1,300 to €2,000 including VAT.

Diesel may be a slightly more attractive option for the frequent user due to the lower running cost, but the initial buying costs are considerably higher.

A 10hp Yanmar diesel engine washer fitted with 200bar pump with a 21l/min flow rate will cost in the region of €2,955 including VAT.

PTO washers

Another popular option on many farms is the PTO power washer.

As its name suggests, this option mounts on the tractor’s three-point linkage and is powered using the PTO.

These units can be direct drive or gearbox-driven, requiring the tractor to run at less rpm, but, once again, this extra cost usually depends on how frequently the machine is going to be used.

A 200bar pump with a flow rate of 21l/min built on a galvanised frame will cost in the region of €850 including VAT.

Electric steam washers

Electric washers are common for the lighter tasks, but performance can be limited on single-phase electricity. Larger electric washers require three-phase power.

That said, small single-phase washers prove very handy around any yard. An entry-level 3hp motor capable of 100-bar pressure and a flow rate of 12l/min will cost in the region of €740 including VAT. A larger 140-bar 11l/min pump also fitted with a 3hp motor will cost around €1,035 plus VAT.

Steam washers are the most effective when it comes to washing machinery, as the hot water tends to break down oil and grease much easier. As a result, less water volume is needed.

However, these machines come at a higher initial price and higher running cost. Many of these washers are equipped with an electric pump with an oil burner to heat the water.

An Alberti 3hp 125bar 10l/min model would set you back in the region of €2,370 including VAT, while a larger three-phase model with a 7.5hp motor, capable of 205bar at 15l/min, will cost roughly €2,670 including VAT.

Detergent or not?

For those who are particular about thoroughly cleaning their kit, we spoke to Paul Gannon from Gannon Chemicals in Co Mayo. Paul advised that a general-purpose degreaser is the most suitable for agricultural machinery.

He outlined that on a dry day in the summer, the machine should be wetted before applying any product. However, in the current weather, this doesn’t need to be applied.

Paul explained that the most important piece of advice is to dilute the detergent to the manufacturer’s recommendations.

By strengthening the mix of detergent, you are actually having the opposite effect, decreasing the effectiveness of the product. For accurate mixing and application, he recommends mixing the detergent in a well washed-out knapsack sprayer before applying the product.

“Always wash the machine from the bottom upwards. This is to wash in the detergent by using the mechanical action of the water and the chemical action of the detergent to achieve dual action,” he said.

“It’s the most effective way to wash a machine. Once applied, the detergent can be washed off within a few minutes. For washing big machines, I would recommend doing them in four sections.”

The use of detergent will really bring out the best in a machine. However, if not fully washed off, it will stain the paintwork. This happens when the detergent dries and powders stick to the paintwork.

“When it comes to detergent, there is no magic formula. Don’t buy acid detergent or cheap products. They tend to be caustic soda-based which aren’t the friendliest to paintwork, will corrode aluminium and won’t break down synthetic oils either. Most importantly, wear gloves and goggles when washing – detergent will burn your skin,” outlined Paul.

Rust inhibitor

Some farmers and contractors use a rust inhibitor on the metal components (ideally not sticky when dry). A more accessible option to most is to apply a light mist of a light oil or diesel mixture. This can be applied with a paraffin gun on the end of a compressor or via a knapsack sprayer. A light coat can also be brushed on if the above methods are not available. Other options include spraying on a light coat of WD40 or duck oil.

Combine

If combines aren’t cleaned down and stored properly, they can deteriorate as much, if not more, during the off-season than when actually working in the field. Ideally, they should be cleaned down before any servicing or repair work is undertaken, with the goal of leaving it set for next year’s harvest.

While cleaning down the combine, work from the front to the rear, taking note of any worn or damaged parts as you go. Remove all loose debris and any grains. Debris left on the machine will attract vermin. If you want to clean areas or components with water or steam, ensure you protect all the electrics and sealed bearings. Any water which enters sealed bearings will cause corrosion and rapid wear. After washing, it’s important to run the machine and refill all grease nipples and bearings.

Once parked in a dry shed, the battery should be disconnected or the isolator switch should be used. Be careful disconnecting or connecting batteries. The negative should be disconnected first and reconnected last.

Combo baler/wrapper

We caught up with Mike Walsh from McHale to find out his recommendations for best practice on washing and storing a Fusion for the off-season.

He explained: “Ideally, we like to see guys taking the heaviest of the grass and debris off the rollers in the field after completing the last job of the year when it’s fresh. I am very much against power washing the interior – you don’t want water on bare metal for the winter.

“The interior of the balers should be blown out with a compressor, with only the exterior panels power-washed. Once cleaned up, the chains should be manually oiled and all grease points greased. We see the particular guys even putting Vaseline on the netter bars and believe me it works. By going through a baler now, if there’s an issue anywhere, you’ll spot it when the machine is clean and dry. Around this time of the year, things are typically quieter. Guys should take into maintenance works after the machine has been cleaned down while any problems are fresh on their mind.”

Control terminals

Control terminals and guidance systems are expensive and should be stored somewhere that’s safe and dry. Damp workshops where rodents may be present are not a suitable environment.

The last thing you want is to hook up a drill or baler in the spring when the weather turns to find out you need to spend heavily on a wiring repair or replacement.