The name Chilean glory flower might seem a bit overblown, but this plant is indeed native to Chile and Peru, and it is glorious in full flower. The flowers are carried in open clusters of 10-20 flowers. The cluster is held upright and the flowers open in succession from the bottom, but, being long-lasting, the whole bunch is often present and intact by the time they all open. Each flower is a narrow, slightly bellied tube, with the tiniest narrow flare around the mouth.

This little flare is usually bright orange, while the rest of the tubular flower is bright scarlet. These bright colours are shared by many South American plants, because they are the colours most easily seen by the tiny hummingbirds that pollinate this and other plants of the region.

Chilean glory flower, or eccremocarpus, is also very long-flowering, from early summer to late autumn, which makes it especially valuable. In its native territory, the glory flower grows in scrubby areas and woodland edge, scrambling up other plants, dead scrub or trees. It is one of a small group of non-woody, herbaceous climbers, including perennial sweet pea, hops, perennial nasturtiums and cup-and-saucer plant. These die back to ground level in autumn and winter, and spring up again in spring.

The glory flower is technically evergreen, as it is sometimes grown in a mild area or under cover, but it is not fully hardy and in general it withers back to ground level. This is not necessarily a bad thing, because the vine effectively self-prunes. The withered stems can be pulled away or they can be left to provide grip for the new shoots. So if glory flower plants have been overwintered with little damage, they start to flower in early summer, but usually later.

Eccremocarpus is part of the bignonia family which includes campsis, the trumpet vine and tecoma. These are spectacularly beautiful flowering, woody climbers, but too tender to grow here, except in a very mild location, and the cool, relatively damp summer weather does not suit them.

Glory flower is not as picky, but it does best in a sunny summer, with good temperature levels. In a dull year, the plant makes too much leafy growth with reduced flowering, and it can just run out of summer. Glory flower is easy to grow from seeds which are wide and flat, quite like those of parsnip, but with a darker middle. The earlier the seeds are sown, the earlier the flowers are produced, but usually not until late summer, from seed.

Sow the seeds in a warm propagator in mid-January to mid-February. And grow on the seedlings as well as possible, transferring them to individual pots and increasing the pot size as needed. The plants can be kept in a greenhouse to make as much size as possible, before planting out at the end of May after hardening off.

Being a scrambling climber, eccremocarpus needs something to grip onto. It has tendrils at the ends of its handsome, divided, ferny leaves. The tendrils are finely branched and grip well onto any means of support, but the plant looks well on a wooden fence or trellis. It will happily clamber over and through other climbers. It is vigorous and can make more than 2m in the growing season. Older plants can be bigger again.

The plant likes open, well-drained fertile soil that does not dry out. It can be grown in pots for a patio or greenhouse, and being potted allows the plants to be taken into a greenhouse for the winter in the colder parts of the country. CL

Tidy up

strawberries

There is a tendency when strawberries have finished cropping for the year to forget about the plants and leave them to get on with it, which they do, but weeds do the same. It is important to give the plants a tidy-up and a thorough weeding. Strawberry plants’ roots continue growing until about mid-December and resume about mid-January. Weeds grow right through winter in mild spells and the strawberry plants can be smothered and weakened before spring growth.

Remove all weeds by hand-weeding and hoeing, and take off old, withered and worn leaves from the plants and other debris that has gathered, as it can be a source of botrytis infection of the fruit next year. It is also a good time to plant new stock or to lift and re-plant runners that have rooted by themselves, but perhaps out of the line of plants.

Flowers

Finish off planting all kinds of spring bulbs as soon as possible. Bedding plants for spring colour should be planted soon, removing the summer bedding. Divide perennial flowers and plant new plants. Lift dahlias, begonias and gladioli in frosty areas to prevent damage, or cover with soil.

Lawn

Moss grows all winter and should be controlled this month, ideally testing the product on a small area first. Continue mowing as late as possible, if the ground is firm and not wet. An application of autumn lawn fertiliser, or high P and K and low N, will improve the winter appearance of the lawn.

Trees, shrubs and roses

Rambler and once-flowering climbing roses can be pruned, if not already done, by taking out the old, flowered shoots. Root-balled evergreen trees can be planted now. All kinds of pot-grown trees and shrubs can be planted too. Prepare ground for planting by controlling all grass and weeds.

Greenhouse and house plants

Reduce watering of houseplants and stop feeding. The compost should be slightly dry on top, moist underneath, but never wet. Do not stand a pot in a saucer of water. Pick the last tomatoes. Keep the greenhouse tidy and ventilated occasionally, to reduce the risk of grey mould disease.

Vegetables, fruit and herbs

Lift and store potatoes and carrots for winter use, if not already done. Remove old vegetables when finished and do not allow weeds to build up. Parsnips generally keep better when left in the ground. Prune raspberries, blackcurrants and gooseberries. Pot up some parsley in a greenhouse.