Claret ash

The autumn colour shown by trees and shrubs in both the garden and the countryside has been exceptionally good this year, even though there have been strong winds from time to time. Latterly, there have been a few frosty nights and frost quickly finishes the show, causing the leaves to fall off. Last summer, in months of drought trees did not suffer as badly as grass, and who would have foreseen that outcome by early November. Plenty of trees and shrubs died, but only those growing in dry soil and those also struggling with disease. In a year of good growth, autumn colour is generally good too.

The wild ash tree, commonly seen in hedgerows and woodlands, is a very pretty sight as it colours to shades of rich yellow. There is a cultivated form called Fraxinus excelsior ‘Jaspidea’ that is even more stunning. This is also called the ‘yellow-bark ash’ because it has yellow bark on its twigs and smaller branches, while the wild ones are olive grey. In spring, the new leaves are bright yellow and remain so for a time until they turn green. In summer, the tree looks like any other ash but in autumn, it changes colour to make a broad pillar of bright yellow foliage. It seems to have less green pigment than the ordinary ash and makes a brighter colour.

If the weather is calm and chilly in late October, the colour washes out even further to a pale shade of gold. At this stage the leaves are very brittle and fall easily from the tree, so the effect might last for only a few days, but it is exceptionally beautiful. When twigs are well-ripened following good growth, the leaves retain higher levels of pigments and sugars. As the green chlorophyll is washed out of the leaves, the red, yellow and purple pigments become more noticeable. In the case of the common ash tree, there is very little red or purple to wash out.

The manna ash, Fraxinus ornus, is a smaller tree, native of southern Europe. It has feathery white flowers in early summer and the leaves turn to striking shades of purple and yellow in autumn. Typically, the leaves on one or two branches, or on one side of the tree, start to darken and as the green colour is lost these leaves turn deep wine-purple. The purple washes out to red-purple on the outside of the tree and the inside leaves turn yellow, making a very pretty effect. The foliage is finer than the common ash and it can last longer on the tree, despite starting to colour quite early in autumn. The purple washes out to red-purple on the outside of the tree and the inside leaves turn yellow, making a very pretty effect. The foliage is finer than the common ash and it can last longer on the tree, despite starting to colour quite early in autumn.

Beautiful as these trees are, the real star of the group is the claret ash or Fraxinus angustifolia ‘Raywood’, some used as a street tree or by motorways. This has narrow longer leaflets, somewhat olive tree-like, to which it is related, ash being part of the olive family. The foliage of the species turns yellow but the form ‘Raywood’ turns red-purple. This is a big tree from southwestern Europe capable of over 20m in its native range, though less in this cooler climate.

In September, the foliage, already dark green, becomes darker and slowly turns dark crimson purple, washing out to the richest shades of red, wine and purple, a wonderful sight to see lit by the afternoon sunshine. Some years better than others and splendid this year, this tree is good every year. It is much more reliable than the red oak or the red maple of North America, both of which are much vaunted and reasonably widely grown. All three are big trees, too big for town gardens but offer outstanding colour to a rural garden. Ash likes good drainage in deep fertile soil, and the foliage colours better if the ground is not too rich. It is better able to ward off disease such as ash die-back or canker.

All fruit crops need a good fruit-growing soil and site. The ideal soil is a deep, fertile, free-draining, acid brown earth loam. As the soil moves away from the ideal, the chances of regular good crops are reduced. Heavy land gives vigorous growth with reduced flowering and fruiting and more disease. Wet land and pure bog are generally disastrous for fruit, but large planting mounds might improve results. Strawberries, raspberries and apples are the easier to grow and to pick.

Avoid frost pockets or low-lying ground — a slight slope to drain away cold air on a frosty night will improve results. All fruit crops do best in full open sunlight. Fruit crops need good shelter to retain warm air but with some air movement to dry the foliage after rain and prevent disease. The best fruit-growing soils and conditions are east of a line from Cork to Coleraine. Good weed control is essential for best results with fruit.

Trees, shrubs and roses

It is a good time to plant hedges because the planting season for deciduous bare-root trees has begun. Do not plant until spring in windy areas where the young plants might be wind-rocked. Small trees can be planted as whips for shelter belts and small blocks of woodland in awkward corners, simply killing off the grass and planting.

Lawns

Lawn mosskillers can still be applied especially in shady areas — sulphate of iron will blacken the grass for a time. Mowing will have finished for the year in most cases, but if there is a dry spell, and the ground is not soggy, the opportunity should be taken to mow the grass. Algae and moss on paths can be slippery and should be treated.

Fruit and vegetables

The vegetable area can be dug over if the ground is not too wet, or at least have weeds controlled so that they do not go on growing all winter and shedding seeds. Tidy away all old crops that might carry over pests or diseases to the spring. Fruit trees and bushes of all kinds can be planted, after good soil preparation.

Flowers

There is still plenty of time to plant a few spring bedding plants and even some bulbs. Many garden shops now have bulbs reduced to clear and you can get good bargains. Some of the overgrown perennial flowers could be lifted, divided and re-planted to keep them under control, taking the opportunity to get rid of weeds at the same time.

Greenhouse and house plants

Make sure that house plants are away from sources of heat and not close to single-glazed windows at night. They should not be standing in water either and should be getting reasonably good light. Watering in the greenhouse should be at a minimum.