There are cities that are sometimes so close and convenient, they don’t enter your radar when planning a break. I’ve spent more time exploring Lisbon than London and Barcelona than Belfast. That all changed recently though when I took the M1 to the Northern Ireland city with a food scene that is set to impress.

George's Market

George’s Market

Belfast has a food offering that the locals are fiercely proud of, especially Phil Ervine, who along with his business partner Caroline Wilson runs the Taste of Belfast Food Tour. The most natural place to start an exploration of the city’s food offering is George’s Market, one of Belfast’s oldest attractions. With families wandering around with coffee, bands playing in the background and traders proudly displaying their produce, the atmosphere was vibrant and fun. A mishmash of arts and craft stalls sat alongside fish traders, each step revealing something new.

One of the first stops on our travels was Hillstown Farm Shop. Free range chickens are reared on the farm in Co Antrim, protected by two llamas called Strawberry and Shortcake, and this is just the first story of this quirky stall. Also proudly on display are a range of beers brewed on the farm and inspired by the animals. Get sipping the Crazy Horse, the Horny Bull, the Spitting Llama or the Squealing Pig. In fact, farmer Nigel Logan not only brews his own beer, he also uses the leftover meal from the brewing to feed the cattle, which are a combination of Shorthorn and Angus. On top of that, Hillstown Farm Shop also has Northern Ireland award-winning sausages. While the pork sausage is well worth a taste, it’s the steak and stout sausage that will stop you in your tracks.

Fancy some dulse?

Fish traders line the back wall of George’s Market where you’ll find really good value. Langoustines for £1 a pop is a bargain wherever you are shopping. While wandering, grab yourself a bag of dulse. A self-proclaimed Northern Ireland delicacy, it is – for want of a better description – a paper bag of seaweed but if you like the ocean taste of oysters, you’ll love these chewy salt explosions. Wash down with a local beer or bring them home to add something different to a chowder. For £1 a bag, it won’t break the bank to get a bit experimental.

Tom & Ollie’s food stall has an offering that extends beyond the Belfast boundaries. Brimming with charcuterie, olives, baby octopus, confit duck, preserved lemons, it’s a food lover’s dream looking at their array of products. However, if you are going to buy anything in this market, we would recommend their chilli and Irish garlic hummus. One of the finest things we tasted all weekend, the pungent garlic shines through the spicy chilli. Also try their Irish garlic pesto, smooth yet powerful.

Aladdin’s Cave

Moving outside, we made our way to Sawers Market on Fountain Centre, Northern Ireland’s oldest deli with a rich history. The last store of a dynasty created in 1873, the brand once had stores in Dublin, Glasgow and Aberdeen. Sawers supplied the drawing rooms of the Titanic and Kieran Sloane, who showed us around, also revealed that the Game of Thrones actors “spend a fortune” when they visit. It really is an Aladdin’s cave of food with everything from kangaroo to foie gras on sale. However, it was the produce closest to home that impressed most.

If you’ve never tasted Irish black butter, well put it on your food bucket list. Perfect to eat at Christmas, it is made with Armagh Bramley apple, Armagh cider, spices and there is a bit of rum in there too. We can only imagine that it brings mince pies to a whole new level.

Sawers chilli jam also does well during the festive season, with 2,500 pots sold in December alone, but to be honest, we think it would work great on a cheese board any time of year. Irish wheaten toast, Ditty’s Irish oatcakes with celery and black pepper, Guinness fruit pudding, beetroot pickles and Armagh apple cider vinegar are just a snapshot of local products you can pick up.

Belfast's Cathedral Quarter

Jawbox Gin

At that point, we were looking forward to a little rest. Who would have thought that gin and burgers were a match made in heaven but that’s what we found out in Muriel’s, known for Belfast’s best burger. Gerry White is the man behind Jawbox Gin. Made in the style of London dry gin, it is juniper heavy and served with ginger ale, which we found out was also invented in Belfast. The name behind the brand is also inherently Belfast. Jawbox is a nickname for a Belfast sink which traditionally sat in the heart of the kitchen, where stories were shared and the craic was had, hence the name Jawbox. White wanted his gin to also be at the heart of the conversation and fun – a great Belfast name for a fine gin.

Other destinations visited on the tour included Mourne’s Seafood and A Friend at Hand whiskey shop, which doubles as a museum – a must for whiskey lovers.

The day finishes off in Coppi restaurant with Italian tapas, which isn’t the most Belfast thing, but is a lively restaurant to enjoy the company of friends you made on the trip.

Belfast city hall

WHERE TO EAT?

Howard Street Restaurant

51 Howard Street | www.howardstbelfast.com

During our weekend in Belfast, we stayed in the Fitzwilliam Hotel, which is extremely central, making it convenient to walk anywhere in the city centre. It’s also been given a complete revamp recently and although it is right in the city, it was an oasis of calm with blush pink furniture interspersed with pops of teal green. Right across the street is Howard Street restaurant, which was one of the real perks of our food experiences during the weekend. Soup wouldn’t usually be the highlight of the meal for me but there was quite literally eating and drinking in their spiced coconut prawn soup with spring onions and basil. Delicately spiced, it was creamy and warming, yet each spoonful brought about a whole new flavour. Another highlight was the crispy pork belly served with sticky puy lentials. With exposed brickwork, wooden floors and the hum of locals chatting and laughing, Howard Street served up great food in a relaxed atmosphere. What more could you ask for?

Cafe Parisien

Café Parisien

56 Donegall Place | www.cafeparisienbelfast.com

It was Friday lunchtime and the sun was beaming through the tall windows of Café Parisien overlooking the stunning Belfast City Hall. Beside us two ladies were chatting over an impressive tower of afternoon tea. First impressions, I think we are going to like it here. A taste of France right in the middle of Belfast city centre, the chicken liver pâté was delightfully smooth and spread on warmed brioche bread with the spiced rhubarb chutney adding a pop of sweetness, elevating the dish. Another highlight was the bouillabaisse seafood stew with a saffron roulle. Brimming in mussels, each spoonful was loaded with cod, salmon and green beans cooked al dente and smothered in a light tomato sauce. We have to give a mention to the fantastic décor with bold yellow curtains, paired with royal blue chairs, gold lamps and exposed brickwork. This attention to detail went right down to the waiting staff who were exceptionally polite. We also loved their uniforms which included yellow braces and blue dicky bows.

Mourne Seafood Bar

34-36 Bank Street | www.mourneseafood.com

There is a great story behind Mourne’s Seafood. When fisherman Bob McCoubrey saw his oysters on sale in a restaurant in France with a 600% mark-up, he said: “I am in the wrong business.” He, along with his wife Joanne, set up a seaside shack in Dundrum, Co Down. Seafood served in a relaxed style, he promised her they were not opening a restaurant. Over 15 years later and it is now one of, if not the most, popular seafood restaurant in the city. The menu changes according to what’s caught that day, and take our advice, get sharing. The mackerel pâté and scallop ceviche was a pop of freshness with focaccia crisps adding a delicate crunch. Get the knuckles and pinchers ready and have fun releasing the crab meat from its claw and smothering it in chilli butter. Our one regret is that we didn’t order the piri piri prawns, which are served on a sizzling pan with lots of warm bread for mopping up the spicy sauce. Mourne’s Seafood was a stopping point on our food tour but unfortunately, the offering wasn’t quite as impressive as what is actually served when you stop in for dinner.

www.discovernorthernireland.com