Until recent years, michelia was only seen among collections of unusual trees, usually in big gardens open to the public. At a glance, when seen in full flower the familial relationship with magnolia is obvious, and michelia has always been considered as part of the greater magnolia family. However, the flowers of michelia are generally smaller than the individual magnolia blooms and the plant carries a greater number of flowers. Instead of being situated at the tops of the twigs, as the flowers of a magnolia, the michelia carries flowers along some twigs in the form of loose clusters.

For hundreds of years these differences were considered to be enough for michelia to have its own genus, but in recent times DNA analysis and others studies of the growth of the plants has indicated that the michelia genus ought to be classified as part of the greater magnolia family and michelia is now a magnolia.

The name michelia was given in honour of a botanist of repute in the Italian city of Florence, by the name of Pietro Antonio Micheli, and with it his claim to immortality is now gone.

The species most often seen is Michelia doltsopa, now Magnolia doltsopa, an evergreen with narrow, magnolia-like leaves on a small tree to about six metres. Most species are evergreen, indicating they come from areas of warm climate – as they originate in subtropical areas of China and southeast Asia.

In flower it is a splendid sight at the National Botanic Gardens, Dublin, especially against a blue sky in March. In its native Chinese range it can reach 30m, but probably one-third of that here where it is more likely to be a small, bushy tree. Its timber is dark-brown and fragrant. The flowers are noted for fragrance as are some old magnolia species, such as the American Magnolia grandiflora, with a rich, sweet scent.

Other species and some named varieties are beginning to reach northern Europe, having done well in warmer places.

The Fairy series, Fairy Blush, Fairy Cream and Fairy White, was bred in New Zealand, a country much warmer than Ireland, by Mark Jury, a noted breeder of camellias – these new magnolias have a non-family aspect in common with their scattering of flowers and flexible stems. A smaller, bushy species with masses of small flowers has been crossed with the bigger tree mentioned, to give plants of smaller size with good flowers that are well scented. It is known in America and Australia as port-wine magnolia, because some types have purple-flushed flowers.

This small species, Magnolia figo, figo meaning fig though not fig-like, is considered more tender and can be used as a very beautiful conservatory plant.

The others mentioned could also be grown under cover. Some writers give only 5°C as the lowest temperature level these magnolias can tolerate, but that would be tricky to achieve even in a non-heated glasshouse, and the magnolia doltsopa trees have survived much lower levels than that in various places around the country. However, winter damage can be caused when -7°C is reached, as can happen to any evergreen magnolia.

So these magnolias are not as robust as old deciduous kinds, and need to be grown in mild areas, well sheltered from cold eastern winds. Results are likely to be good in favoured gardens and when a good site is available. They prefer neutral to slightly acidic soil, but will not object too much, yellowing somewhat.

A good mulch of conifer needles would acidify the soil adequately. It is most likely to be seen for sale during flowering as big plants.

Chop down old stems

Growth has already begun with some plants, for instance pulmonaria, epimedium and hellebores are well in flower. This is a good time to tidy up old stems and leaves from last year. Until now the stems were left for winter effect and to benefit a myriad of animals. But at this time of year, as new growth begins, most of them are being naturally shed.

It is not necessary to take this material off the bed, unless you prefer a tidy look. In fact, it is better to leave it in place to rot down, provide humus and nutrients, help to control weeds and encourage beneficial insects and other small creatures.

If withered leaves have already fallen to the soil surface, let them be, it is only necessary to remove the top hamper of taller stems and leaves, and these usually come away with a tug, or if not they are quite brittle and snap off easily. Start at the top to chop down the stems in pencil-length chunks to fall on the soil surface. Use a hedge-shears or a petrol hedge-cutter. The new growth will soon push up and hide the old stems and the debris at soil level.

This week

Fruit, vegetables and herbs

Pruning of apple and pear trees and blackcurrant bushes should be completed now. If weather conditions allow start making outdoor sowings, especially of onions from seed, parsnips, broad beans, early peas and sprouts, as well as salad vegetables. Plant new fruit trees as soon as possible.

Flowers

Dividing herbaceous perennial flowers should be completed soon. Most bedding flowers can be sown over the next couple of weeks. Start the seeds in warm conditions, in a propagator or in a warm kitchen, but not too warm. It’s time to sow seeds of hardy annual flowers.

Lawn

There is no rush about applying lawn fertiliser, but if the ground is not wet it can be applied in early areas. There has been some grass growth in recent months and mowing should have commenced. Apply lawn mosskiller if there is heavy moss growth and lawn food a couple of weeks later.

Trees, shrubs and roses

Bush roses and repeat-flowering climbers are growing strongly and should have been pruned weeks ago. Prune late summer shrubs such as fuchsia and buddleia. Rose bushes can still be planted. Finish planting bare-root trees and shrubs in the next couple of weeks.

Greenhouse and house plants

Feed and water all greenhouse plants, if not already done. Sow tomatoes for greenhouse growing, also sweet peppers and chilli peppers. Watch for greenflies and scale insects on glossy evergreens. Start off the tubers and roots of tender flowers to plant out at the end of May.