The image of the snowdrop is of a brave little flower pushing its way up through a cover of snow when so many other plants are still dormant.

Of course, there are some other plants that flower early, such as winter aconite, hellebores, winter heathers, some early cherries, evergreen viburnum and sweet box, but the snowdrop holds sway over all of those for the manner in which it quickly appears and the impact it makes.

Straightaway, the garden seems to come alive, with snowdrops in the lead. The contrast between the apparent delicacy of the snowdrop flower and the harsh winter weather is striking.

But this is not any “bravery” on the part of the snowdrop. Instead, the early flowering of snowdrop is an evolutionary strategy that is best for the continued survival of the plant and its proliferation in suitable places.

Snowdrop is a plant of upland woods and rocky places. Both of these habitats have a tendency to dry out in summer and the snowdrop bulbs aestivate: the summer equivalent of hibernation.

By flowering early, they get the benefit of early pollinators and can grow their leaves well when there is plenty of moisture in the soil. The leaves, having powered the formation of the seeds and the flower buds in the bulbs for the following year, wither away in early summer, just as the tree canopy closes overhead and the tree roots are drawing the moisture from the soil. While they might look delicate, the flowers are well adapted to coping with harsh weather. The hanging flowers and the leaf blades shed rainwater readily because of their shape, flexibility and waxy covering.

If frost or snow comes, the flowers close up and may even lie on the soil surface, arising again as soon as there is a thaw.

On a warm sunny day, the flowers open like an umbrella to allow access for pollinators to the fertile parts.

All parts of snowdrops contain poisonous compounds that can cause severe stomach ache, and grazing animals do not touch snowdrops.

Large swathes of snowdrops are sometimes seen in the countryside, apparently growing wild. These are not wild, because the snowdrops are not native to Ireland.

The common snowdrop, Galanthus nivalis, is native to continental Europe from Spain to Ukraine. The Galanthus part of the name means milky, not gallant, and nivalis means white. Soil and climatic conditions here suit it very well, and it thrives in gardens.

The common snowdrop was widely grown in old gardens and it was joined by its double-flowered form, which has extra petals. Snowdrops like good soil that does not get waterlogged in winter or dry severely in summer.

Until recent decades, other kinds were not seen much. But there has been a huge increase in the popularity of snowdrop species and selected forms, and some people, known as “galanthophiles”, have become collectors.

There are several species, notably Galanthus elwesii, a vigorous plant often twice the size of the common snowdrop, both in height and flower size. Its flowers are large and slender, scented of honey, as many snowdrops are. It is native to the Balkans and part of Turkey. Its leaves are broad and usually blue-green.

Similar in size is Galanthus plicatus, from the Crimea and Northern Turkey. Some kinds are hybrids, such as the famous Irish variety ‘Straffan’ (shown), named after the Kildare village. It often produces a second flower per bulb. ‘Castlegar’ is another variety of Irish origin, a large plant that flowers before Christmas. The lovely variety ‘Sandersii’ has a yellow flower stem and ovary and there are other yellow kinds.

Collections of snowdrops can be viewed during February at Altamont House, Carlow; Woodville Garden, Galway; Bellefield House, Offaly; Primrose Hill, Lucan, and other places. See www.irishsnowdrops.org.

To tidy – or not to tidy?

Some people are inveterate tidiers and others are messy. Between the two, most people do the needful – but what is needed? Around now, stems of many perennial flowers begin to rot and fall over. If these are tall kinds, they do not fall neatly to the ground, instead falling at angles, and onto neighbouring plants. Other plants, mostly short kinds, fall more neatly and cover the soil with stems and old leaves.

Here is a compromise that reduces effort and is more natural. The plants that cover the soil around them can have their cover left in place. The long kinds can be chopped up with a hedge-shears and left to lie as ground cover, or removed and composted. If there are weeds to be removed, very often the stems have to be taken away too.

This week

Trees, shrubs and roses

Pruning of overgrown shrubs can be carried out at any time, except for all members of the cherry family, which risk disease attack in winter. Rose bushes and repeat-flowering climbers should be pruned as soon as possible in the next few weeks. Plant trees and shrubs in good soil conditions.

Flowers

Perennial flowers will soon be starting into growth and it is a good time to lift and divide flowers, to propagate them or reduce size. Seeds of geraniums, busy lizzie and bedding begonias can be sown in a heated propagator, but it is still too early for most kinds, such as dahlias and French marigolds.

Fruit, vegetables and herbs

Potatoes can be sprouted in shallow trays in a bright place, such as a greenhouse. Sow seeds of early varieties of cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, lettuce and onions in a tunnel or glasshouse to get a start on the season despite poor conditions outdoors, as it has been quite wet in parts of the country.

Lawn

Lawns have become wet and squelchy and should not be walked upon until they have drained. If a dry spell comes along, and the ground firms up, mow the grass. Areas of wildflower meadow or wildflower lawn can be mown once or twice to tighten the sward before spring growth comes.

Greenhouse and house plants

Greenhouse peach trees will begin flowering soon, and the first flowers should be gently pollinated with a small soft paintbrush to ensure a set of fruit. Grapevines should be pruned by now. It is important to begin watering as greenhouse plants need it but without over-doing the amount of water.