The winter jasmine has produced an outstanding early show of flowers this year. It is always reliable and never fails to flower – but it is better in some years than others. Presumably the summer of good growth suited it well.

This is a flower of winter, starting to flower in late October and lasting until spring. It produces over-lapping waves of flowers all winter, peaking during mild spells. The flowers are quite robust and can take being covered by snow and ice, at least for a time. Eventually, prolonged exposure to harsh weather damages the flowers that are open, but these are soon replaced from dormant flower buds, responding to improved weather. Cold dry wind can be more damaging than snow, but this is generally a hardy plant, not harmed by frost.

The winter jasmine, Jasminum nudiflorum, is a true jasmine, by contrast with lots of jasmine-like flowering plants that have acquired the attractive jasmine name although they are not directly related – such as potato jasmine and Confederate jasmine.

Winter jasmine is related to the sweetly scented white jasmines. While the white jasmines are famed for their sweet scent, the winter jasmine has no scent at all. This is very strange, because most plants that flower in winter – mahonia, sarcococca and witch hazel, for instance – are noted for scent, because it offers a means to attract the very few pollinating insects that might be on the wing.

Apart from not carrying scent, winter jasmine has many good attributes. Its flowering is charming and it is very easy to grow. It is a shrub because it has woody stems, but it does not form large woody stems. It produces long whippy branches that arch upwards and outwards. New shoots form each summer, branching from the older stems. The new shoots carry small leaves, each one divided into three leaflets. These leaves are shed in autumn, but the arching stems, which are thin and rush-like, stay bright green and continue to photosynthesise during the cold months.

Not making much upward growth of its own, winter jasmine needs the support of other plants or structures. In nature, it clambers over rocky ground and onto neighbouring plants. But it is not a climbing plant and has no means of gripping support other than its profuse growth of arching stems, or it can scramble along the ground too, forming a spreading mound.

It grows well in any ordinary soil, not wet, and in full sunshine for best flowering. It can be grown as a wall plant, tied onto some strong wires initially. Or it can be planted beside shrubs, such as the herring-bone cotoneaster or pyracantha, the red berries of these shrubs making a lovely combination with the yellow flowers. If it is too vigorous on the support plants, some stems of the jasmine can be pruned out.

It can also be grown on a rough bank or to tumble out over a retaining wall. Where the shoots touch the soil, they often strike roots and the plant uses this ability to spread outwards. It roots so readily that even accumulations of fallen leaves can trigger rooting. If new plants are needed, these rooted shoots can be lifted in winter and planted.

This ease of propagation ensured that plants have been widely passed on, cottage-garden style, and it quite common in gardens around the country.

If the stems are spreading too much, they can be chopped off with a spade at soil level or a hedge-clippers higher up. A few stems with flowers can be cut for indoor use, lasting a few days in water, and looking very well with some sprigs of winter heathers, some berries or snowdrops in season! CL

Last lawn leaves

It has been a relatively long period of leaf fall this autumn and early winter. Many trees made very good growth and late growth too, and late growth is always slower to shut down its leaves and prepare for winter. It usually takes a few days of frosty weather to strip the last leaves, and even then some kinds – notably alder and birch – can hold out into December.

Do not be tempted to let the last few leaves lie on the lawn or on tarmac or paving. The grass of a lawn can be badly weakened and thinned out by decaying leaves, as the grass growth is weaker now. Fallen leaves allowed to rot down on tarmac can provide ideal conditions for moss growth, and can cause staining on paving, while making the surface dangerously slippery.

Flowers

Plant spring bulbs that were purchased but not planted. Plant new perennials if the ground is not too wet. If the ground is wet, do not undertake division and re-planting. Many flowers react very badly to being moved into cold, wet ground. And avoid planting too deeply.

Trees, shrubs and roses

Rose bushes can be pruned, especially in an exposed garden or in a mild area. Most kinds of trees do best in well-drained soil, so test holes should be dug before deciding what to plant. If the hole fills with water and does not drain, use trees such as willow and alder.

Fruit, vegetables and herbs

Fruit trees and bushes can be planted if the soil is not too wet, otherwise just wait for a drier time. Fruit tree pruning can be carried out, except on plums and cherry trees. Control weeds and grass around fruit trees and bushes. Prune and tie in trained fruit trees securely.

Lawns

Lawns can be very soft and should not be walked on now if possible, because to walk over its surface when it is wet causes compaction and poor drainage, but there will be occasional spells of dry weather when the ground will firm up enough to carry out a once-off mowing.

Greenhouse and house plants

Check for pests on greenhouse, conservatory and house plants, especially scale insects. Water just enough to keep plants moist but slightly dry. Tidy the greenhouse and check that snails have not settled in for the winter, as they can do severe damage during mild weather.