Safe and winter-ready tractor operation

A tractor is usually one of if not the most important machines on any farm. Today, it is not uncommon for a new tractor to cost €100,000. Meeting tougher emissions regulations and ever-evolving sophistication and, to be fair, greater comfort too, has propelled tractor prices skywards over the last decade or two. It could be argued that reliability and productivity has increased too.

The complexity of meeting emissions regulations, improving comfort and productivity on modern tractors means that it is so important to carry out basic checks and maintenance. I don’t mean full-scale servicing, which, because of the level of sophistication utilised on today’s tractors, means that servicing is often better left to those who are trained to do it. I mean the basic stuff: lifting up the bonnet and having a look under there, checking fluid levels, spotting leaks or clogged radiators.

The improvement in tractor design and construction often means that very few issues rear their heads in the early stages of a tractor’s life. Five, eight or 10 years down the road plus a few hard hours under the hood and that all changes.

So the following is a guide of what to look out for and things that may be an indicator of bigger problems (plus some housekeeping thrown in for good measure).

Spending a few euro on a relatively small fix and maintenance could save a whole pile of money in the long run. Not opening the bonnet does not mean there aren’t any problems lurking under there.

Grab a flashlight and have a good look around the engine for leaks or signs of leaks, such as coolant staining.

Engine oil, fuel or coolant leaks need to be addressed. If coolant is low, it’s advisable to get it checked in your local dealer or garage. The same applies to the tractor’s backend. Have a good look for leaks that may need rectifying.

Emission control systems on modern engines have placed increased demands on tractor cooling systems and the coolant itself.

So if you are topping up coolant in your tractor, you have to make sure that the correct coolant is being used and is compatible with the original coolant in the tractor’s cooling system.

Most modern tractors now utilise long-drain engine oils and recommended service intervals can be quite long. Read the small print though.

Service intervals can be considerably shortened depending on the type of work a tractor may be doing.

Pre-emission regulations, engine oil selection was pretty straightforward.

A good-quality 15W/40 diesel engine oil pretty much covered all tractors. Nowadays, it is far more complex, so check with your dealer before you top up or change a tractor’s engine oil.

Low SAPS-sulphur and phosphorus oil is often utilised with emission control catalysts. The wrong oil could damage its engine and the multitude of catalysts bolted on to a tractor’s exhaust system.

On some tractors, maybe equipped with large wheels, fenders and maybe even a loader, checking engine oil might not be as easy as it should be. Don’t neglect to check it though. A seized engine is eye-wateringly expensive to rectify. As mentioned earlier, check for the correct specification of the oil and service interval.

Only check or top up the engine’s coolant when the engine is cold. A tractor’s cooling system is pressurised to increase the boiling point of the coolant.

Opening a radiator or header tank cap on a tractor that has just worked hard could cause the coolant to instantly boil and exit the system under pressure.

It’s good practice to check an engine’s coolant or anti-freeze before the real cold of winter sets in. Water confined in a cooling system can do so much damage through expansion if it freezes. A simple coolant or anti-freeze tester like this one pictured is very inexpensive and could save on some hefty repairs.

Most farms will have an air compressor of some sort. To help the engine breathe better, periodically blow out the outer air filter (leave the inner unit in place), particularly if loading dusty meal into a diet feeder or mixer wagon in the winter

The same applies to the cooling package. Modern tractors can have several radiators all bunched together at the front of the tractor. Any restriction in air flow can restrict the cooling capacities of one or maybe all the radiators in the cooling package.

An oldie, but so often neglected. Again, modern tractors may have one or more fan belts. More often than not, these are flat micro-V belts with automatic tensioners.

While relatively maintenance-free, it’s good practice to check the micro ribs on the belt for signs of perishing or damage. The same applies for standard V belts, but may have to be tensioned.

Engage the services of a mechanic or garage if beyond your own capabilities.

It takes more effort to turn over and start a tractor in the cold of winter in comparison with the summer. This can show up any weakness in the starting and charging systems.

At the heart of any tractor’s starting system is its battery.

Heavy leads connect the battery to the start to provide the appropriate cranking power.

Any weakness in the starting system will quickly rear its head when the temperature drops.

Corrosion – like on this battery terminal – can cause a breakdown in the electrical circuit, resulting in poor or no starting. Dealing with batteries can be dangerous and may be a task for your local mechanic or garage.

Not all tractors will have brake fluid reservoirs. Some are fed from the tractor’s own low-pressure hydraulic system and some are simply mechanical (older or vintage tractors).

Sometimes, it is very hard to see or find the brake fluid reservoir under the hood of a modern tractor, with a multitude of emission control systems.

If your tractor does have a brake fluid reservoir, check the level is between the maximum and minimum. Ideally, it should be at the maximum all the time.

On tractors with single-disc braking systems, most modern MFs, New Holland, John Deere and Case IH tractors for example, a low fluid level in the reservoir could be an indicator of worn brakes (or a leak). Either way, low brake fluid level will require further investigation.

Catching worn brakes before they wear down to the steel is far cheaper to rectify.

Brake fluid type

A word of caution about brake fluid.

There are two main types: mineral oil-based brake fluid and vegetable oil-based brake fluid. Neither is compatible with the other and they can do very expensive damage if they are mixed up.

Always consult the operator’s manual or garage as to which is the correct type of brake fluid.

The condition of the inside of the cab and the cab glass is especially important in winter.

Give the cab glass a good cleaning inside and out. It makes such a difference in the winter.

Wet, damp and dark conditions make it so much easier for an accident to happen, especially if there are items being stored on the cab floor or stuffed beside or behind the cab seat. Twine and net wrap is very good at entangling itself where it shouldn’t.

Repair or replace cab steps that are bent or damaged. If steps are expensive to replace, then there may be cheaper aftermarket replacement options.

In the winter, keeping the windscreen clear can be a battle. Rain on the outside and condensation on the inside. Generally speaking, wipers are not expensive so good practice is to replace the complete wiper head before the winter. The air for cab heating and air-conditioning systems is well filtered on modern tractors.

If you find that heater or blower performance is poor, it might be worth blowing out or replacing filters altogether. There may be filters both inside and outside the cab. Your local dealer will advise if you’re not sure.

Lights, beacons and mirrors are easy to check and relatively inexpensive. Most can rectify the simpler issues themselves.

More involved repairs may require a bit more technical or garage know-how. Faulty lights are just not worth the risk of causing or being an accident.

Faulty or poorly applied handbrakes on tractors are a major cause of accidents. They need to work correctly because there is no competition between metal tonnage and man. It will not and does not end well for man.

Again, good housekeeping should be maintained, so that the handbrake can be operated properly.

That includes releasing it properly so it does not damage the hand braking system. If it needs professional expertise to rectify, get it sorted.

Loader tractors are among the busiest on any farm. Handling silage bales or grabs puts enormous pressure on the front axle and steering system. Regular greasing goes a long way in preserving the components that can be greased. Wear will still occur and it’s worth sitting in the tractor seat and gently cycling the steering wheel left and right. There should be no play in any of the steering components or axle.

If there is, then it should be checked out and rectified.

A steering component failing under load or speed is never going to end well.

Hydraulic hoses carry oil at extremely high pressures, usually somewhere around 3,000psi in most agricultural applications. On any tractor, there may be numerous flexible hydraulic hoses delivering hydraulic power and function for steering, transmission, three-point linkage, suspension or loader functions.

Oil being carried at high pressure is extremely dangerous, not to mention the dangers associated with the loss of whatever function the hose is connected to if it bursts. So, if in any doubt, ask your dealer or mechanic and organise for a safe replacement of the defective hose.

Some time ago, the machinery team at the Irish Farmers Journal carried out an exercise to determine the loading or weight being carried on the front axle of a tractor with loader and silage bale. In the exercise, we determined the axle loading on the test tractor with a silage bale on the front loader was almost the equivalent of the entire weight of the tractor. That was on a 100hp tractor a little over five tonnes. This puts tyre condition and pressure into perspective.

The correct and equal pressure in front (and rear) tractors tyres is very important for safe tractor use with a front loader or a load on the rear of the tractor. A blowout under these, or any conditions, would be, at the minimum, unpleasant. Check tyres for perishing, damage and excessive wear.

The tractor’s backend is where most of the heavy lifting, hauling and PTO work is carried out from. If the tractor has quick-hook ends, are the latches intact and functioning? They’re generally not too expensive, but can be a bit fiddly to replace. Your garage could probably swap one out in a few minutes if you don’t want to tackle it. Stabilisers, drop-arm adjusters and top links can give bother or become worn, so it’s no harm to check and rectify as needed.

The PTO cover needs to be in place and functioning if it is a flip-up version. Check hitch function and wear too.

Check that the hitch bolts are not loose.