Gerry Croffey is no stranger to the garden machinery scene, working in the sector for many years before opening his own shop near Ballinasloe, Co Galway, some 26 years ago. We spoke to Gerry’s head mechanic, Martin Swieboda, who took us step by step through a typical chainsaw service.

Oil

The chain oil tank should be filled every time the operator fills the chainsaw with two-stroke. It’s very important that operators use good-quality chainsaw chain oil, and not waste oil found lying around the workshop. Waste oil has a high sulphur content and reduced lubrication qualities.

The chain oil needs to have proper cling qualities, so it is not flung off the chain at the time of application. The viscosity of the oil needs to be suitable for a chainsaw. For example, if the oil is too thin the chainsaw will use too much oil, while on the other hand if the oil is too thick it will not lubricate the chain properly.

The chain track needs to be kept clean to allow the chain oil to lubricate the chain properly.

The oil needs to be able to withstand high temperatures. Proper chainsaw oil is readily available in most hardware stores, and it is critical for the life of your chainsaw. The fuel mix is also very important. Operators should always try to use a recognised brand of two-stroke oil and ensure to use the correct ratio.

Spark plug

It is good practice with chainsaw maintenance to replace the spark plug at every service.

When replacing the old spark plug, operators should take note of the condition of the spark plug. For example, a grey colouring on the spark plug may indicate damage to the piston. This grey discolouration would be a result of aluminium burning in the cylinder.

Air filter

It is essential to keep the air filter free of any materials or dust. The air filter should be removed and cleaned or removed on a regular basis. The vents should also be cleaned out to ensure the air intake is not blocked. Otherwise the saw may overheat.

A blocked air filter will restrict the power, cause the saw to burn more fuel and will smother the spark plug. A blocked air intake will also restrict the air getting to the carburettor, which will affect chainsaw performance.

Fuel filter

If a chainsaw had been left idle for some time, the petrol can turn into a jelly-like substance. For a saw that hasn’t been used for a number of months, it is good practise to empty the fuel tank and replace with fresh fuel. The fuel filter should be replaced at every service. A typical fuel filter will cost around €5 to €6.

Chain

Depending on how much work you are doing with the saw, this will determine how often the chain will need to be sharpened. If you find yourself leaning on the chainsaw to make it cut, then you need to sharpen the chain.

Regardless of the sharpening method, each cutting tooth on the chain will have a diagonal line, usually called a witness mark. This indicates the sharpening angle and marks the end of the life of the chain when filed to this point.

Getting a chain professionally sharpened will set you back from €8 to €10, depending on the size of chain.

Different manufacturers will have different sharpening angles that are typically around the 250° to 300° angle.

It’s important to be aware that as a chain is sharpened the depth gauge also needs to be lowered. If the depth gauge is too low the saw will be hoping or jumping off the timber, resulting in a dangerous scenario where it may be difficult to hold the saw. If the depth gauge is too high the chainsaw will be unable to cut the timber. It will eventually damage the bottom of the guide and the chain.

There are a number of options when it comes to sharpening the chain. The easiest way is to remove the chain and get it professionally sharpened, which will set you back from €8 to €10, depending on the size of chain.

This two in one file holder will sharpen the cutting tooth and wear the depth gauge at the same time.

There are numerous tools on the market to aid the sharpening process. One such tool is the two-in-one file holder. This tool will sharpen the cutting tooth and wear the depth gauge at the same time. After sharpening the chain it’s important to correctly set the chain adjuster. The chain should be placed on the guide bar and tightened until it is resting against the bottom of the guide bar. The saw should then be run for one to two minutes. The chain may need to be retightened if necessary.

Guide bar and sprocket

Often neglected, the chain guide bar also needs to be maintained. The chain track needs to be kept clean to allow the chain oil to lubricate the chain properly. There is a sprocket at one end of the chain guide bar on which the chain rotates.

There is a bearing inside this sprocket which needs to be greased regularly. This sprocket should rotate freely. The guide bar itself will occasionally have to be replaced. If the guide bar channels have widened to the stage where the chain has become loose then it will need replacing.

Head mechanic Martin Swieboda and shop owner Gerry Croffey.

Chain brake It is of critical importance that the chain brake safety feature is working.

The chain brake is a steel band around the clutch drum, which is activated in an emergency situation, stopping the chain with an immediate effect.

Martin explained that the chain brake is without doubt the most important feature on the chainsaw.

If a chainsaw has no chain brake, it should not be used.