This New England fish chowder is a different version of the one I grew up with. My mother always liked to use salmon. Any chowder is a great way to encourage children to eat fish and vegetables. Today’s recipe is one I cooked in Boston, which is a great place for chowder. I was there a few years back, cooking with Kevin Dundon, Darina Allen and Noel McNeill, and we had a very enjoyable time. Make sure you get good-quality naturally smoked fish for the best flavour. You can make this without the bacon but I like the taste. And remember that this will keep in your fridge for four or five days.

Spelt flour is becoming more readily available and can be now bought in most supermarkets in white and wholemeal varieties, so I’ve used a mixture. You could, of course, use regular flour. The buttermilk gives a nice savoury taste. Grated cheese is a tasty addition to this muffin recipe. Sundried tomatoes or herbs will work well too.