The elderly couple walked gingerly along in front of us, just where Katie had been trimming the flower beds in the morning and where we met Johnny sweeping yesterday evening.

Johnny is a towering 6’4” and I think the sweeping brush was an excuse to chat to his guests as they returned with stories from the town. We held back, not wanting to overtake them.

They were a glamorous pair, both tall and straight. Her shoulder-length hair was pinned back with flowers. Today she was wearing navy and white shimmering trousers with navy flats. Her flamboyant top was caught in the middle with a deep belt accentuating her tiny waist. He was wearing a multi-coloured shirt over a rust-coloured pair of cords.

They held hands gently. They crossed the road. As they approached the footpath, he dropped her hand to support her back and switched with ease to walk on the outside to protect her. Ann whispered to me: “Isn’t old love gorgeous!”

We had stolen two nights away to recharge our batteries and our friendship. We chose Youghal because it was not too far away for either of us. The priorities were rest and chat. We also had a Blue Book voucher to spend. Ann did the booking. She chose Aherne’s Townhouse and Seafood Restaurant in Youghal. It is a famous seafood restaurant.

On arrival we were greeted by David who couldn’t do enough to settle us into our comfortable and elegantly decorated room. This is an old-world hotel. We were there for the food and the comfort. The expertise and friendliness of the staff made sure we had a memorable stay.

FAMILY-RUN BUSINESS

A family-run business has a special quality. That attention to every detail and individual attention made us feel very special indeed. Aherne’s, being the name of their grandparents, is run by two brothers; Johnny and David Fitzgibbon and their wives Katie and Gaye.

The family have been running the business since 1923. David is the head chef. Both men have a fabulous sense of humour and a turn of phrase that kept us well entertained. They are hands-on people.

Back to the man with the brush though. Johnny sent us across the road to explore Neville’s drapery. There we met Ann and Pauline. Pauline Neville is a very fine artist and, along with her paintings, has prints of her scenes on notelets, cards, scarves and cushions. Inside that shop you could find any item from old fashioned to modern, from quirky to beautiful.

Johnny had been across for socks that morning, Pauline informed us. She sent us on to her husband’s shop, Scotts, which was lined with jars of sweets and all kinds of wonder. And so it went, going from shop to shop to explore lovely country businesses.

RURAL IRELAND

We hear a lot of talk of businesses closing in rural towns. It will continue to happen if we continue to talk rural Ireland down.

Youghal and other towns may have closed premises and vacant shop fronts, but you must look beyond it to find the heart of the town. It is made up of people and places and history and hospitality. Everyone we met on the streets of Youghal or while walking on the beach gave us a welcoming salute. Our lovely elderly lady told us that she has been coming to Johnny’s place for years. They were there for seven days and had spent a few days also at The Mustard Seed in Ballingarry, Co Limerick.

It’s no harm sometimes to see rural Ireland through the eyes of our visitors. What keeps them coming back? It’s not closed shop fronts, even though that, too, is part of changing times. Instead it is people and charm and the rustic beauty of places like Youghal.

We walked the 5km beach. There is a wonderful Eco Boardwalk that is part of the National Coastal Walking Route funded by the town council and Fáilte Ireland. Many more amenities are required to make the beautiful places of Ireland accessible.

Ann and I went out to Whiting Bay. It is unspoilt by man-made structures. Ann had the rug and the cushions in her car. We sat and watched the ebb and break of the tide on the sand. We enjoyed the changing colours on the rippling water, mixing silver and indigo until a black cloud stilled the shimmer. The water became a solid grey colour, losing its movement. It was time to go back.

BACK HOME

My lady is still in my head. We had a brief chat at breakfast. She has no idea how much she inspired me. My life is punctuated by different beginnings and ends, each meaningful in their own right.

The dairy year begins with the birth of the first calf in February and ends when the last cow is dried off by December. My writing goes from January to December when I open a new folder. My teaching begins in September and runs to July. It is important to make each beginning important and meaningful.

This is my first week back at school. We have new staff, new pupils and new programmes to implement. I think of my elegant English lady telling us that she was a dance teacher and involved in drama all her life.

“In fact, I still teach the little ones a bit and take the adults too sometimes.”

Now that is inspiration, especially given that she was 91 years old!

As to our break, Johnny and Katie’s sense of fun and confidence in their home town of Youghal, along with top-class service means that our recharge went exceptionally well. I look forward to returning to Ahernes. CL