The clocks have gone back and winter is on its way. This is the time of the year that I really enjoy soup. I always make extra because it freezes well. The celeriac, smoked bacon and apple is very autumnal. Local apples are at their best right now and I put this soup on the restaurant menu at this time of year. I always encourage people to try celeriac. It has a fantastic flavour. It is inexpensive and versatile. I use it in potato gratin, in stews and in purées.

I like the taste of the smoked bacon in this. You could also try smoked duck or chicken.