The heavenly bamboo features frequently in traditional Japanese gardens. Some of these gardens were attached to monasteries and have a religious aspect, which explains the “heavenly” part of the plant’s common name. It’s reputed to dispel bad dreams and is considered to be a plant of welcome and ease, so it is often seen by the entrances to Japanese gardens.

However, all parts of the plant are poisonous, which is quite a contrast to its peaceable reputation. Rabbits, deer and grazing animals steer clear of it. It is native to Japan, China and parts of India.

Its botanical name is Nandina domestica, the first part of the name derives from the plant’s Japanese name, which is nan-ten.

It is easy to see why it was taken to be a type of bamboo and acquired the name it has. Heavenly bamboo, sacred bamboo, or Japanese sacred bamboo, has narrow twiggy stems, quite like those of some of the smaller species of true bamboo.

The leaves are of quite similar shape, narrowly elongated and carried like those of true bamboo, the tips of the leaves pointing downwards and clustered around the stems. The plant being evergreen like the true bamboo further reinforces the connection.

In fact, nandina is part of the berberis family, related to berberis and mahonia, and this makes the link even more obvious. In summer, it produces open sprays of small, white flowers and these are followed by red berries. Flowering and fruiting does not take place much in this country, as the summers are generally too cold and dull. But it can happen occasionally on plants grown in a sunny, sheltered spot.

In autumn, the plant foliage takes on a red hue and may colour very attractively. The most popular variety, Firepower, has a brilliant red crimson autumn colour and this lasts right through winter. It is more reliable in colouring than the ordinary kind, which often shows patchy bits of colour but can stay largely green.

The new shoots that appear in spring have a pretty reddish or purple-red colour for a few weeks before they turn green.

This shrub is usually seen to grow to about one metre or so, but it can reach twice that height and a bit less in width when grown in good conditions. It is hardy and resists both extremes of heat and cold in its native land. However, it can be caught out sometimes by late spring frost and some leaf surface damage can appear due to cold, wet winter weather.

The leaflets often curl back on themselves to give a puckered shape, especially if exposed to harsh winds.

Given that it likes warmth, nandina should be grown in a position of good shelter and given as much sun as possible, in well-drained soil, but not too hot and dry, which tends to stunt it. As in Japan, it can be planted by a wall, where the contrast of the texture of its foliage looks well.

The foliage is popular for flower arranging because of its colour and texture. If nandina finds the garden a bit too exposed and harsh, it can make a very good conservatory plant, or for an enclosed porch. It can be trimmed by removing some stems if it gets too big.

You can plant nandina at any time of the year from a pot.

Squirrels enjoy corn on the cob

As the number of squirrels continues to increase, their visits to gardens and feeding on garden crops has become much more commonplace. Previously, squirrels were more wary and visited gardens only early in the morning.

Their presence is much more likely to be felt in rural areas, especially where there are groves of trees and hedges that provide safe corridors for them to approach gardens.

They are fond of fruit, especially strawberries. Hazel nuts are often cleared out well before the nuts are ripe, and lately there have been reports of attacks on sweetcorn. The sheath covering the cob is stripped away and the kernels are eaten on the plant.

While this could happen to forage maize too, the level of damage is likely to be very tiny, however the squirrels can destroy a garden crop of sweetcorn within a few days. Try chilli powder, they don’t like it.

Flowers

Perennial flowers can be planted, or lifted and divided in the case of existing plants. Bedding plants have lasted very well with good weather last month, but it can be removed soon in preparation for planting spring bedding. This is the main time for planting spring bulbs and containers for spring display.

Trees, shrubs and roses

Prepare ground for planting trees, shrubs and roses, if not already done. Bare-root or rootball trees are cheaper and easier to plant. The planting itself can take place now for evergreens or in six weeks’ time for bare-root deciduous trees. Planting can be delayed until spring if the weather and ground are wet.

Fruit, veg and herbs

Vegetables have done exceptionally well this summer with the good spells of sunshine. Old vegetables should be chopped up and composted. There is quite a bit of brown rot on fruit, which should be picked and buried. Apples and pears can be stored using flat trays for pears and open plastic bags for apples.

Lawn

If moss was a problem last winter and spring, sulphate of iron can be used to knock it back before the wet season. An autumn lawn fertiliser or a low-nitrogen compound fertiliser can be used without delay. This will maintain some growth through the winter and leave the lawn in good condition coming into spring.

Greenhouse and house plants

Throw out any old plants that are past their best because they are a source of pests and diseases. Tidy up all debris and reduce watering to keep pots from going bone dry. Place rooted cuttings in a bright position. Stop feeding plants. Most of the greenhouse crops can now be cleared.