There are those who delicately tear the paper off a gift, eager to prolong the anticipation, while others rip through the wrapping, eager to get to the prize. Whatever way you open gifts, the best part for many is giving – seeing the delight when you’ve found the perfect present.

Emer Purcell of Hampers & Co might not see the reaction of every person who receives one of her hampers – she has a selection of 350 and last year she sold 18,000 sets – but her client’s delight is one of the things that has kept her business going for 23 years.

“I’ve always been determined. I inherited that from my father. This may be my first profile in the Irish Farmers Journal, but my father has been frequently mentioned on these pages.”

From Tipperary, Emer’s father, Michael Purcell was one of the first big cattle exporters.

“Himself and his brother Seamus were exporting to Italy, even to Libya, from the ’60s to ’80s – very innovative. I have childhood memories of herding cattle up the quays in Waterford. My brother John stayed in the beef business – he is a director of Good Herdsman – but my passion was horses.

“I was training national horses until I was 30. I did veterinary nursing and went to China for a year to study acupuncture for horses. I set up a clinic in Clonmel but I also loved all these foodies and started putting together hampers of local artisan produce to supplement my income. It was small. I had some local businesses buying at Christmas but the following year they wanted 10. The next, they were ordering 50. It got to a stage where I didn’t take any clients in the clinic in the runup to Christmas.

“The more I sold, the more I expanded the range and then started knocking on doors, visiting companies in industrial estates, lugging hampers up and down stairs showing potential clients what I had. I remember my father being horrified – I had no idea, no plan – but for every five calls made, I had a sale.”

The hampers or the horses?

“I was spreading myself too thin, not doing one or the other to the best of my abilities, and I’m never one to do half a job. Horses are a labour of love but with the hampers I was paid up front, and the venture excited me.”

Emer made the right call.

“It was really hard at the start but within 10 years, say 2004, I had a turnover of €1.2m. Two years later it was over €2m.”

Of course, life happened in the middle of it all.

“I met my husband Alan in Dublin, and we moved to Clontarf, even though my warehouse is on the family farm in Tipperary. Our children arrived, Michael (11) and the twins Charlie and Daisy (nine). It was the boom years, the business was going great. Then overnight it stopped. The recession hit, it was like someone turned off the light switch.”

Emer stares into her cup, her vibrancy darkens, her voice more subdued.

“I remember a moment of sheer panic. It was a cold day in January 2009 and I was standing in our warehouse in Tipperary, looking at shelves and shelves of products. I always filled the warehouse in October, preparing for Christmas, and 2008 was no different. By January, the place would be completely clear but that year it was still 75% full. I knew things were bad beforehand – the phone had stopped ringing. But seeing everything in front of me on the shelf, it was just scary. I had three small babies and a boom-time mortgage, so I did what I had to do – I fought for survival.”

Most people who set up a business start small, exhibiting at farmers markets and shows and growing from there. Emer was the other way round.

“My business at one stage had a turnover of €2m and yet I found myself behind a stall selling jams. I had no problem doing that because I was determined to get rid of the stock. I went everywhere, from the Ploughing to local agricultural shows, selling at cost.

“Honestly, looking back, those markets saved the business. It wasn’t just about recouping investment, it kept me going, helped me feel I was being proactive, I wasn’t allowing the business to go under.

“Also, they helped form the business I have today – it was the best market research because, by God, people will say things out straight. I laugh thinking back to some of the conversations … I met some great characters, they kept my spirits up.”

Emer expanded her offerings, while remaining true to the origins of the business – hampers of gourmet Irish food.

“Things were very tough but I kept it going because I had done well in previous years and had a cash reserve. It was 2014 before I saw any real lift. Now the website has really opened up business.”

What makes these hampers really stand out is the presentation, their wow effect – double wicker baskets with leather straps. Tucked inside are products to suit every budget and taste bud.

“I have so many favourites. Of course, the Taste of Tipperary is close to my heart. However, I think the ultimate is the Irish Artisan Hamper, it’s our most popular and includes Lily O’Brien’s chocolates, Union Hall Oak smoked salmon, whiskey truffles. I once read that a wise woman said: ‘It’s not what we give but how much thought we put into the giving that matters.’ I guess this motto has definitely worked for my business.”

www.hampersandco.com