Abelia is a small- to medium-sized shrub that covers itself with soft-pink flowers from July to October, and even later in a mild autumn. The flowers are carried in loose clusters at the tip of small, slender twigs. It flowers on growth of the current season, which is why it starts in July and keeps going while new growth is produced, in the same way as equally long-flowering fuchsia does. The flowers are short tubes that flare open at the mouth and are very like the flowers of weigela and kolkwitzia, to which it is related, all being members of the honeysuckle family – though they are shrubs and not climbers.

There are several species of abelia, mainly from China, with one beauty from Mexico, but there are only two kinds seen in gardens, and even then the Mexican one is very unusual to see. The most widely grown kind is Abelia x grandiflora. The “x” in the name means that it is a garden hybrid, and it is a cross between two Chinese species, themselves not grown outside collections. Hybrids often show desirable features of both parents, in this case smaller size of bush and larger, more free-flowering flowers. It is somewhat arching in shape and the flowers are fragrant.

Sometimes given the name of glossy abelia, because of its small, glossy leaves, this hybrid forms a broad bush in rich soil up to two metres tall and even wider, but usually not as big on dry soil and where the shrub is exposed.

Abelia is practically evergreen in a mild area, but can lose a lot of its leaves in a cold area and in a cold winter. Usually, the foliage takes on a touch of red during the colder part of the year. It is not completely hardy, but does fine in all but the coldest inland areas, and in a frosty winter.

Abelia’s small flowers mean that it is not in the ranks of the star shrubs, such as roses or hydrangeas, but it can play a very useful role in a mixed border with its long flowering and soft colouring that complements the star plants.

And it has another trick. When the tubular flowers have spent their time and fall, the calyx that held each flower persists and actually deepens in colour from green to soft pink-brown. It is split into four or five petal-like parts. At the end of the season, few flowers remain, but the flowerheads are still nicely decorated with the reddish-pink calyces.

There are some named varieties. Abelia ‘Edward Goucher’ has flowers of lilac-pink, a deeper colour than usual. It grows about the same size, it is easy to grow and the flowers are about the same size. There is a form commonly offered called ‘Francis Mason’, which has yellow variegated leaves that are decorative when the plant is not in flower. But it manages to look a bit ill and it flowers less than the plain green kind, which is a far prettier plant. Hard to get, ‘Little Richard’ is a beauty, with pink flowers and pink calyces. ‘Confetti’ is a neat plant, with white variegation in a stripe at the edges of the leaf and white flowers.

The Mexican species Abelia floribunda is less hardy and is normally grown against a wall for frost protection. Remarkably beautiful, it looks very different, with much longer flower tubes, deep cerise-pink, that hang down from the twigs. It is also an evergreen shrub, with arching branches, quite tall but arching down in an attractive fashion. It flowers in early summer on the previous season’s shoots. Abelia floribunda is unusual and hard to find to buy, but it is such a beautiful shrub that it is worth watching for. Abelias of both kinds grow in any ordinary soil, not too dry in summer or wet in winter. CL

Mildew on trees

It is very common for young trees to be practically covered with white, powdery mildew at this stage of the growing season, notably oak and maple. The upper and lower leaf surface can be covered with white mycelium, a layer of microscopic fungal tubes. These tap into the cells of the plant’s leaves and draw out sap as a source of food and water to produce more infective spores. While the fungus does draw some sap from the plant, it does very little harm and young trees are not significantly affected. The coating of white fungus does not greatly affect the green chlorophyll underneath. Young trees eventually outgrow the fungus.

Flowers

Bedding plants in pots and baskets are now in need of regular watering and feeding. Feeding every two weeks or so is essential to keep the plants going after the first flush. Seeds of perennial flowers, such as lupins, mallows and foxgloves, can still be sown now for flowering next year.

Trees, shrubs and roses

A late show of roses from strong, new shoots could still be obtained by feeding. Early flowering shrub roses and ramblers that have now finished could be pruned by removing some of the shoots that flowered. It is not too late to occassionally water young trees and shrubs, as necessary.

Lawn

Lawn edges should be trimmed neat around beds and borders. Pale-coloured lawns should be fed in showery weather. A lawn that was fed earlier in the year would benefit from a second feed now, as well as those lawns that did not get fertiliser in spring, especially on light soil.

Kitchen garden

Seeds of Swiss chard, Chinese mustard leaves, mijuna, radish and lettuce can still be sown. Spring cabbage should be sown now. Do not let weeds go to seed to avoid building up trouble for the years to come. Cut the tops off early potato plants that are showing signs of potato blight.

Greenhouse and house plants

Continue to train and side-shoot tomatoes and cucumbers, and pick the fruit as it ripens. Continue watering and feeding greenhouse plants. Be especially careful to water plants in pots or grow-bags regularly. In a greenhouse or tunnel, shrub cuttings can be taken now, as many kinds are easy.