You might say that it’s a brave Dubliner who would venture to work in Kerry, given the traditional – albeit friendly – rivalry between the two counties.

But when chef Kevin Dunne went to cover a two-week stint in the kitchen at Parknasilla Hotel in Sneem in December 1980, he got much more than he bargained for.

“He phoned somebody and said he had met the girl he was going to marry – and that was it,” smiles his wife Ann.

And that was not only the start of a relationship, but a partnership that led to the couple running The White Gables in Moycullen, Co Galway, which recently celebrated over 25 years in business.

Kevin, who is originally from Drumcondra, has worked in kitchens since he started an apprenticeship at The Shelbourne Hotel at the age of 13. After meeting and marrying Ann, who was working on reception in Parknasilla at the time, the couple relocated to Galway, where he worked for what was then the Great Southern Hotel on Eyre Square, while she was employed by Stephen Pearce Pottery.

One day in 1991, however, while driving through Moycullen on the main road to Connemara, they saw a “For Sale” sign on what was a former police station.

“And that was it,” says Kevin of their decision to take a leap of faith to start their own restaurant, The White Gables; though, as Ann recalls, not everybody shared their confidence.

“People thought we were mad because we were eight miles out of Galway,” she explains, adding that when they first moved in over the restaurant, where they still live, they hardly had a kettle.

The customers, however, did not take long to find them – eight miles or otherwise – attracted by traditional but high-quality specials like grilled black sole on the bone, fresh lobster, fillet of beef wellington and roast half duckling with an emphasis on local suppliers and generous portions.

“Give people what they want: not what you think they want. That’s very true here,” says Ann, who describes their best-sellers as “retro”.

“You don’t have to try to be cool and trendy if you’re good at what you do and believe in what you do.”

And as their reputation grew, so did the business: in more ways than one. As well as the restaurant, The White Gables also boasts a café, a bakery and a shop that they developed during the recession, employing 30 people between full- and part-time staff.

“When we first opened, the kitchen used to start at four o’clock and we used to finish around 11pm or midnight, six nights a week,” explains Ann.

“Now the bakery kitchen starts at 5am and that kitchen goes until 6pm and the main kitchen here starts at 8am and goes until midnight!”

They have also showed innovation in other ways: for example, hosting special events such as a “First Dates” night for Valentine’s and their “Deck The Halls” event every Christmas, offering a free taxi service home for parties of four or more after dinner to one location to the value of €20, and getting involved in local business groups like “Love Moycullen” and “Mná Moycullen” (the village boasts over 50 female entrepreneurs) to promote the area.

However, the couple feel it’s customer service that has really helped them stand the test of time.

“People will say: ‘Oh we’ll go out to Ann and Kevin.’ It’s not so much The White Gables,’” says Ann of the special relationship they share with their regulars.

“And what’s happening now is the kids that would have been christened are coming in for their 21st birthdays and engagements. It’s incredible really.”

Indeed, their own family has grown with the business. Jack is 24 and working as a DJ while studying sound engineering, while Molly, 22, is doing graphic design.

And while they might be taking different paths to their parents, there’s one nugget of advice that holds true regardless.

“If you love what you do, you’ll never work a day in your life,” smiles Ann. CL

The White Gables, Moycullen Village, Co Galway. Tel: 091-555-744 | www.whitegables.com