When it comes to towing a livestock trailer or carrying out general farm tasks, the Toyota Landcruiser has been one of the main go-to workhorses for many Irish farmers over the years. Well-kept used examples still do and will always command a premium price.

In this piece, we focus what to look for when picking up a used 2003-2009 generation jeep. These tips are applicable to many jeeps on the used market. We caught up with Dermot Hughes from Hughes Car Sales in Roscommon who offers some tips and advice on choosing the correct used machine to suit your budget.

Corrosion

The first thing Dermot would look for while buying any used jeep is a fresh DOE.

“The test centres will pick out any issues in great detail that most would fail to see over the course a brief inspection. Getting a jeep ready for a test could easily set you back €1,000 depending on what bits it needs,” said Dermot.

Jeeps with high miles off-roading will more likely suffer from issues due to corrosion. Check the chassis, axle and brake pipes in particular.

A key factor to consider while looking to pick up a good used Land Cruiser is to try and figure out its previous life. Machines that have clocked up a lot of miles off-roading will more likely suffer from issues due to corrosion. Again, this is relevant to all used 4x4s.

Dermot noted that the chassis and in particular the brackets on the rear axle should be inspected for rust. Similarly, potential buyers should look out for corrosion on the wheel arches.

While inspecting this general area, the steel brake pipes should also be checked for corrosion. Vehicles that have been used a lot for off-roading do tend to corrode over the years. Moving to the brakes, the discs (located just inside the alloy) should be checked for wear. We want a smooth surface; a rough edge will indicate wear.

“As jeeps have so much power, sometimes it can be hard to identify whether the callipers are sticking. If there is wear here, it can run into a costly repair. You’re talking €75 plus VAT per disc and €202 plus VAT per calliper. Remember, there are four of each on the jeep,” said Dermot.

Monitor wheel arches for excessive rust.

Gearbox

When checking out the gearbox, bring the jeep for a drive. If it’s a manual gearbox, ideally the gearshifts should be smooth and tight. Try out all gears. A loose gear lever will indicate wear. Meanwhile, noisy gear changes could suggest synchromesh wear. If it’s an automatic, make sure it shifts smoothly and kicks down responsively, watching out for excessive shunting when shifting between drive and reverse. It should also be tried out in four-wheel drive, ensuring it shifts back into two-wheel drive without any issues.

The oil in both the gearbox and diff should be checked over. This is something which is often overlooked. Each has one a bung. Once the bung is opened, if correctly filled, oil will begin to come out. Inspect the oil for the presence of iron fillings or a grey discolouration, either of which will indicate wear of the gears. If the oil is thick it may be even acting as an abrasive.

Dermot noted that it is very difficult to gauge the clutch by going off the pedal. This is because the Land Cruisers have a self-adjusting clutch. If the clutch pedal is high, it may just mean the clutch has moved to a new stage of adjustment.

The automatic gearbox is a sealed-for-life unit. However, it is recommended that regular fluid changes are carried out. It is also advised to check for any contamination of coolant. Cracks in the transmission oil cooler may allow engine coolant to mix with the transmission fluid, leading to gearbox failure. Watch out for poorly lubricated propshafts. They can make a thumping sound when stopping.

Excessive tapping and vibration when started cold could indicate costly injector trouble.

Engine

You should request to check the engine when it is cold. Excessive tapping and vibration when idle could indicate injector trouble. Meanwhile, higher-mileage engines should be checked for excessive black exhaust smoke or dull performance which may suggest an inefficient turbo or worn injectors. If one injector needs to be replaced then all four will need replacing. At a cost in the region of €250 plus VAT each, this will lead to a costly repair.

Dermot noted that its hugely important that the timing belt is changed every 200,000km or else after every three to four years to avoid perishing. At €38 plus VAT for a genuine belt, this is an in-expensive repair. However, if a timing belt snaps, it will cause huge damage costing in the region of €3,500 to €4,000. If it was genuinely replaced by a dealer, it should come with a new sticker. Dermot noted that its good practice to fit a new belt once a used machine is purchased.

General condition

Like any sort of machine, the general condition both inside and out will tell you a lot about how well the jeep was cared for by its previous owners.

One common fault to keep an eye out for is cracks on the hinges that hold the back door. The back door is quite heavy and also carries the weight of the spare wheel. If the door is allowed to open freely, over time it can crack the hinges.

It is worth taking a step back and taking a look to see that the jeep is sitting level on flat ground. The rear suspension struts and sensors could have failed over time. Both can be costly to fix.

Inspect the undercarriage for excessive corrosion, often a common problem with vehicles that have spent a lot of their working life along coastal areas due to the salt.

Body panel condition should also be examined for previous damage or repair. If repaired, perhaps raise the question with the seller as to why it was repaired or what the damage was. Given the age and miles clocked up on many examples now, it is not uncommon for some body panels to have been touched up.

Although the interior is relatively hardwearing, the front seats may sag or lose their shape over time. Electrical problems generally aren’t commonplace. However, it is worth checking over functions such as electric windows, the radio and the electric sunroof (if fitted) do work correctly.

Before purchasing any vehicle, it is always worthwhile carrying out a full history check. This is to ensure the vehicle hasn’t been stolen, written off, had its miles tampered with and that there is no outstanding finance from previous owners.

History

This generation of the Toyota Land Cruiser was launched in 2003. It came with the choice of a four-cylinder 161bhp 3.0l diesel engine with 253ftlb of torque, or a 245bhp petrol V6 engine which may be a surprise to many. The petrol offering only came with a four-speed automatic gearbox and in a five-door form. Meanwhile, the diesel version originally only came with the option of the five-speed manual box and the automatic box. It was also offered as a three-door.

In late 2004, the manual five-speed gearbox benefited from the addition of an extra cog, upgrading it to six speed. The four-speed automatic transmission also gained a fifth gear.

Engine power of the diesel models manufactured from late 2004 onwards offered 20% more torque. To be exact, these models increased from 343Nm at 3,200rpm to 410Nm at 2,000rpm out of the D-4D engine. Both the increase in torque and the addition of an extra gear improved fuel economy.

Models produced in late 2006 and after benefited from a slight power increase now at 171bhp with reduced engine emissions.

Three specifications were offered in this generation by Toyota – LC3, LC4 and LC5. The LC4 and LC5 models offered more bells and whistles including leather seats, a sunroof, upgraded sound systems, satnavs, etc.

In 2008, the V6 petrol model was discontinued due to lack of uptake. The last of this popular diesel-powered generation was built in 2009.