Although red star is a good name for this little plant, as its flowers are red and star-shaped, it is rarely used and the plant is generally known by its correct botanical name of rhodohypoxis. The reason is simple – this is a connoisseur’s plant. Its presence in a garden is a sign that the owner is likely to be knowledgeable about plants and enthusiastic about growing unusual things. If you see a whole slew of this plant, you are certainly in the presence of someone who knows a thing or two. There are red, pink and white-flowered kinds, sometimes grown together, and there are some named selections too.

At the same time, this is not a rare plant – most good garden centres stock at least a few plants during the early summer peak of flowering. It sells well because it is such a pretty little plant, the flowers seem to outsize the little tufts of leaves.

In its native land, this plant grows in the high mountains where there is often swirling mist and fog. It grows in damp peaty soil, not sodden but well drained. It would seem ideal for cool Irish summers with regular showers and mist, and it is. It does well in most parts but seems happiest in cooler northern parts. Being a native of peaty ground, it is no surprise that it likes acidic soil.

The red star is usually grown by alpine plant enthusiasts in a rockery or a peat bed. Grown in these specially-prepared circumstances, it can be given the drainage and soil that it likes best and it responds by flowering profusely. It can be grown in peaty soil in a border too, perhaps near other lime-haters such as rhododendron and camellia.

However, this is an alpine, not a shade-lover, and cannot be placed too close to shrubs that might cut off its light. It really needs full sunshine. Nor does it like much competition in its root zone. Alpines are not the best competitors – their challenge being exposure to the weather.

Having outlined its needs, although they seem tricky, it is not such a difficult plant once its needs are met. The flowers and leaves arise from a group of corm-like rhizomes.

The leaves are grassy, a bit like sedge, hairy and pointed, but not long and usually obscured by the show of flowers. The main problem with rhodohypoxis is too much winter wetness. The roots may rot or be killed by frost in wet conditions, while the plant is hardy if the roots are dry. The part of South Africa where it is native has dry winters and wet summers. So it needs to be kept dry in winter and it is sometimes covered with a pane of glass outdoors.

It is often grown in pots as it is easier to manage. The compost can be lime-free potting compost with one-third grit added and one-third well rotted leaf mould also. This makes for very sharp drainage, which it likes, but the plant must not dry out in summer either.

It likes plenty of moisture when in leaf and flower. Grown in a pot, the deeper the pot the better. Another advantage of growing it in a pot is that it can be brought under cover into a greenhouse or shed in autumn when the leaves wither away and kept quite dry all through winter before re-potting in early spring, by division of the roots.

Mildew on courgettes

Powdery mildew looks like a dusting of flour in spots on the leaves and soon the spots are joined by others and these coalesce to eventually cover the leaves in white fungal growth. Mildew is common on courgettes and related pumpkins, gourds and squashes, and also cucumber in the greenhouse. It occurs in dry weather or mixed weather with dry spells and when the growth of plants is soft and easily attacked.

Mildew does not kill plants but it weakens them and cropping is reduced or halted. Some varieties are resistant to mildew and these are the best choice. If plants are already infected, water well and in a few days water with liquid tomato food and apply a mulch of compost to retain moisture. This will not cure but it will assist the plant.

Flowers

While it increases the frequency of watering, warm weather also improves the results from flowers in pots. Most of them need warm, sunny weather to perform to their best because they are mostly natives of warm climates. Feeding is also essential to keep the plants going and can be given in every third or fourth watering.

Trees, shrubs and roses

It is time to clip hedges of all kinds before the wood gets tough. Any heavy cutting back should be left until the start of the growing season next year. Roses may have suffered from rose blackspot disease and the similar leaf spot disease, but in general the incidence of these leaf diseases are not as great.

Lawns

Lawns have been looking well after very good growth, having had lots of sunshine and rain. On light sandy soil, a lawn may have suffered heavy leaching of nutrients and has not grown as well as it might. If a lawn is pale or yellowish, it probably could do with a high-nitrogen fertilizer or lawn feed, but only after rain.

Fruit, veg and herbs

Watch out for potato blight weather and be ready to spray if the variety grown has poor resistance. Make some late sowings of lettuce, spinach, rocket and radishes. Harvest and use or preserve vegetables and herbs in good time as they become ready. Pick herbs just before they flower when flavour is best.

Greenhouse and house plants

Continue watering and feeding greenhouse plants and house plants to keep them growing for the rest of the season. Take cuttings of all kinds of shrubs, especially roses and clematis now. Be careful to water plants in pots or grow bags regularly. Train and side-shoot tomatoes and cucumbers.