Autumn colour began to develop on trees quite early this year, with some trees showing colour in mid-August. One of the first trees and shrubs to turn colour in autumn is the stag’s horn sumach, and it is one of the best and most reliable.

Its leaves change from green to purplish red and later to brilliant red, orange and yellow. The colour show lasts for many weeks and changes all the time, as the green chlorophyll is broken down and withdrawn by the plant. Even when there are only a few leaves left, it is showy.

Native of eastern parts of North America, sumach, Rhus typhina, makes a large bush or small tree to about 4m with spreading branches.

The branches are relatively thick and there are not so many branches on the tree. They arch outwards and upwards, forming the distinctive stag’s horn shape, which is very obvious when the leaves have fallen and the branches are bare, showing their velvety red coating.

The leaves are large, often over 30cm, and divided into two rows of leaflets, each side matching and one at the tip. They are generally held in horizontal position, where they get most light.

After the foliage has fallen, the flower heads remain. These are wine-coloured and velvety, cone-shaped and held upright at the tips of the branches. As winter progresses, the flower heads crumble with the effects of weather and eventually fall off.

Sumach is very popular in gardens for its fine foliage in summer and good autumn colour. It has been widely grown because of its popularity, but also because it is so easy to propagate.

Established trees readily throw up suckers, usually where the roots come near the surface. Suckers may appear several metres away from the parent plant. When a sucker is established a couple of years, it is easily lifted and moved. The suckers were often passed on to friends and neighbours, and new trees were established.

Sumach was popular in cottage gardens, because it was easily acquired. Although the suckering provides new plants, it can be a nuisance when suckers come up in the middle of a flower border. If not wanted, they should be chopped out at the root where they arise and the soil firmed back hard.

While the suckering tendency is sometimes a nuisance in a flower border, the spread of suckers in a semi-natural setting can be very effective, if there is space available in a corner of the garden or on a dry bank.

In its native habitat, sumach often borders woodland or scrubby areas of meadow. Its ferny foliage – particularly the cut-leaf form ‘Laciniata’ – looks great with grasses and prairie flowers nearby. Suitable plants to associate with sumach include asters, rudbeckia, echinacea, helianthus, monarda, solidago and veronicastrum.

These are also native to America and some are late-flowerers that will still be flowering as the sumach leaves change colour.

Sumach grows well in any soil that is not wet. It shows colour grown in any kind of soil, while many good autumn colour plants prefer acid soil, so the sumach is useful for limy soil areas. However, some individual plants are disappointing, the leaves falling while still green.

Older plants colour best, the fast-growing younger ones not colouring so well. Heavy soil tends to make the sumach leafy and vigorous, and lacking autumn colour. Plant it in well-drained soil in a good sunny position, because it does not colour very well if the sunshine levels are low.

But beware: the sap, which is pale yellow darkening to brown, can cause irritation of the skin.CL

Butterflies on ice plant

The ice plant, or sedum, is a magnet for butterflies in early autumn. The adult butterflies come to feed on the sugary nectar that the ice plant produces in copious amounts. This food source is particularly important for butterfly species such as the small tortoiseshell, shown feeding in the photograph, because these butterflies overwinter as adults here in Ireland, seeking out dark places in hollow tree trunks, sheds and similar buildings, even in the curtains indoors in some cases.

Ice plant is so-called because of its fleshy grey-green leaves and stems. It is easy to grow in any good soil in a sunny spot for most flowers, and a sunny place favours the butterflies, because it keeps them warm and active. Later, when flowering is finished, the ice plant leaves turn yellow and fall, but the brown seed-heads are decorative in winter.

Flowers

Buy spring bulbs and plant them as soon as possible: the fresher they are going into the ground, the better they will flower. There is a last chance to take cuttings of tender plants, such as marguerites, fuchsias and argyranthemums to carry over winter. Continue feeding and watering baskets and other containers for a few weeks to keep them going.

Fruit, vegetables and herbs

Clear away old crops to reduce disease carry-over in future years. Do not let weeds go to seed. Summer raspberry and other cane fruits that have finished fruiting could be pruned out and the new canes tied into position. Finish off any remaining summer pruning of over-vigorous apples and pears, shortening the long, whippy shoots.

Lawn

Grass growth has been good, with some warmer weather and plenty of moisture in the ground after some nights’ heavy rain. Continue mowing regularly and apply an autumn lawn feed that is relatively high in phosphorus and potash. Prepare now for sowing new lawn areas, or re-sowing this month or next. Keep edges neat around beds and borders.

Trees, shrubs and roses

Young trees and shrubs have generally grown very well. It is likely that many of these will continue to grow late in the year to build up strength. Shrub roses and ramblers could now be pruned by removing some of the shoots that flowered. Rose blackspot disease has been very severe in many parts of the country and fallen rose leaves should be raked up.

Greenhouse and house plants

As the nights grow cooler, grey mould disease becomes a problem for many greenhouse plants, and good hygiene is the best way to avoid it. Tidy up the greenhouse now and do not overwater or splash water about. Continue to train and side-shoot tomatoes and cucumbers. Allow only existing fruit to develop, remove flowers and small fruit.