Sharpening
If you find yourself leaning on the chainsaw to make it cut, then you need to sharpen it. To sharpen the chain, the best practice is to sharpen the left-hand side cutters first. Start by locking the bar of the chainsaw in a vice and apply the chain brake.
The best way to sharpen the chain is to have both hands free. Each cutter has a mark on the top of it called a witness mark, which serves two functions. Firstly, it indicates the sharpening angle, and, secondly, it marks the end of the life of the chain when filed to this point.
Sharpening the chain beyond the witness mark is dangerous. Too much sharpening could cause the cutters to break off, creating a risk of injury to both the operator and bystanders.
Only sharpen the chain in one direction with the file, inside to out. If you sharpen in both directions, the cutter will develop burrs on the outside and lose its edge quickly again.
Best practice is to give each cutter two or three strokes of the file to achieve a sharp chain. Following this best practice will allow you to get the full life out of the chain.
Oil
Good-quality chainsaw chain oil must be used, not waste oil found lying around the workshop. There is a reason waste oil has been removed from your engine – it has a high sulphur content and reduced lubrication qualities.
The chain oil needs to have the proper magnetic or cling qualities, so it is not immediately flung from the chain at the nose. The viscosity needs to be correct for the chainsaw – if the oil is too thin, it will use too much oil; too thick and it will not lubricate the chain properly.
The oil needs to be able to withstand very high temperatures also. Proper chainsaw oil is readily available in most hardware stores, and it is critical for the life of your chainsaw that you use the correct oil.
Most chainsaws below 50cc have a fixed displacement chain lubrication pump. These are the most popular chainsaws found on farms. Chainsaws above 50cc would have an adjustable chain oil pump and are more suited for semi-professional and professional use.
Daily inspection
It is vital that you inspect all of the safety aspects of the chainsaw each day before commencing work.
Starting from cold
When starting the chainsaw from cold, use the air purge device if fitted. This fills the fuel line and carburettor with fuel and purges out all the air, making the start much quicker. Now switch on and engage the choke.
Pull the start cord until the engine fires only once, as it will not run with the choke engaged. This is the critical part. If you miss the kick and proceed to pull one or two more times with the choke out, you will flood the chainsaw.
Therefore, after the kick, you must let off the choke and then pull the start cord. The chainsaw should now start.
Starting from flooded
If you flood the chainsaw, the next step is to engage the chain brake, turn choke off and switch on. Lock the throttle in the full position and proceed to pull the start cord as many times as it takes to start. Once started, run the saw until it clears itself of all the heavy exhaust fumes from the flooded engine.
The manual
Finally, it is essential to read the manufacturer’s manual before you commence work and especially if it’s been a while since you used the chainsaw.
Take some time to familiarise yourself with the safety and maintenance aspects of your chainsaw. Time spent here can avoid time spent in the hospital by not using your chainsaw correctly or by poor maintenance.