Is it just me, or are we all feeling really tired? The post-COVID era and the current geopolitical landscape has felt like one continuous challenge. Global economic issues and the increased cost of living are contributing to slow-downs and closures in rural Irish food businesses. Another contributing factor, though, and perhaps the most concerning as we look to the future, is the change we have seen in consumer behaviour.
‘Consumer apathy’ has become an issue both globally and here in Ireland. In real-time, it looks like reduced spending, a lack of interest in new products and lower support for independent brands. During lockdown, Irish consumers really got behind local food producers. Vegetable box purchases were at an all-time high and as restaurants and food businesses pivoted to online sales, they were encouraged by the support they received. As a result, these businesses evolved, digitised and expanded offerings in a lasting way.
But as we returned to normal life, costs increased, life got busy and consumers became careful about spending. The enthusiastic local support we saw during COVID-19 largely fell by the wayside.
Today, Irish consumer confidence in the economy remains weak, according to the May Sentiment Survey report released by the Irish League of Credit Unions.
“The survey still points to a nervous Irish consumer who sees Irish economic conditions and their own household finances now set on a weakening path,” the report states.
When you understand the reasoning behind consumer apathy, it’s easy to empathise – but empathy won’t keep small Irish food businesses from going under.
It’s not always more expensive to support local, but it can take a bit of effort. The question is, how do we get the right messaging out and tackle consumer apathy without alienating the general population?
What Are We Eatin’ Anyways?
One thing we all have in common is the need for escapism. To step away from the stress and have a laugh every now and then.
Imelda Mullen operates The Cottage Market, a social enterprise in Co Cavan which works with small farmers, food producers, local artists and community groups to provide a route to market. Their Local Green Box is an online farmers market which Imelda launched to help market growers sell their produce locally.
“In 2020, with the COVID-19 lockdown, we had more customers than ever before,” she recalls. “We were selling 100 boxes a week at times, and it was quite intense. In 2021, we noticed a slight reduction in numbers but it was still going really well and, at the time, there was a surge of growers starting to sell into the community. Over the past few years, though, we’ve seen a big reduction.”
In 2023, after seeing a continuing decline in sales and many market gardeners closing up shop, Imelda wanted to find a meaningful way to explain why supporting local matters. She obtained funding from Creative Cavan, Cavan Arts and Cavan Credit Union and created a concept for a comedic play entitled What Are We Eatin’ Anyways?
The 40-minute performance follows characters Bridie and Jimmy (Cavan-based actors Fiona Fitzpatrick and Charlie McGuinness) as they learn about the importance of supporting local producers.
“Bridie wants to change their ways and Jimmy is reluctant for all the reasons people don’t support local – it’s too dear; we have no time to cook [etc.],” Imelda explains.
“It was like, how can we educate people in a non-judgmental way? And theatre was an obvious one for us, because we are a route to market for local artists, as well. The Cottage Market developed the content and got funding to script and pay for the performances, and then in 2025, we applied to [the Global Green village at] Electric Picnic and they invited us to perform.”
After its 2025 launch at Electric Picnic and an additional performance during Climate Action Week (11-17 May), on 23 May, What Are We Eatin’ Anyways? came home to perform at the Cavan Townhall Arts Centre. After the show, there was a discussion about local food and an optional meal, made with locally grown produce.
“We prepared food based on what’s in our Local Green Box, with scallions, leeks, kale, spinach and wild garlic,” Imelda says. “After the performance, we had the ‘community experience’ where we showcased what’s in the green box and ran through the website, because we’re an online farmers market and some people might struggle with the online ordering process. This was followed by a discussion around our local producers and a really engaging chat around the humble potato.”
See cottagemarketcavan.ie
Festival food stages
While What Are We Eatin’ Anyways? was being performed at Electric Picnic’s Global Green village, a few tents down more lively discussions were taking place at the festival’s Theatre of Food.
Each summer, hundreds of thousands of people flock to one of our several annual music festivals, and Irish festivals are unique from their global peers in how food is brought into the celebration.
“The food stages we see at Irish music festivals don’t really exist in the UK,” says author and food writer Ali Dunworth.
A big part of Ali’s working year is during festival season, where she curates All Together Now’s ‘Theatre of Food’ and Beyond the Pale’s ‘Beyond the Plate’ food stage. This year, Beyond the Plate’s ‘Spice Bag’ edition will explore the mix of culture, creativity and rebellion that defines Irish food, tracing how global exchange and local ingenuity continues to push our food scene forward.
That said, those in attendance might not realise they are learning about food. That’s the idea: to make wider conversations about cultural identity and food systems appeal to the masses.
“My favourite thing is when people come accidentally,” Ali says. “They might think they’re not into food, but then they spend half their weekend [at the food stage].”
Ali features both Irish food professionals – writers, chefs and producers – and other well-known voices in Irish media, like Louise McSharry. She keeps track of interests, areas of expertise and brings people together in sometimes unlikely scenarios.
“I’m well-known for my interest in food and drink, but I might have even more passion for pop culture,” Ali says. “I love introducing topics that don’t feel food-related but will bring in a big crowd – like our chats about reality television [Below Deck or the Real Housewives franchise] – and how food is a such a major part of the storytelling in these series. I love connecting the dots and bringing topics together in a way that celebrates food and drink.”
From performing plays written by Michelin-starred chef Jp McMahon to kitchen ceilí sessions with sean-nós singing, Irish dancing led by Dublin-based publican Seaneen O’Sullivan or live poetry readings by chef Aine Budds, Ali brings all the vibes of an Irish music festival to celebrate the food community in an accessible way.
“I keep a tab open in a notes app when I meet someone who has something interesting to share,” Ali says. “Then it’s just putting them together.
“For example, I had chef Aoife Comerford [from Glovers Alley], who wanted to talk about being an unlikely candidate to work in a Michelin Star kitchen because of her inner-city background.
“Sometimes the food topics are deep and important, but you also have to remember: you’re at a festival and people are there to have fun. When you have a worthy message, you balance that out with someone who can bring the craic, which is great.
“This is where the real journalism happens – no one is editing you,” she continues. “You say whatever you want; it’s culture in real time. What we do is unquantifiable – it’s sort of ‘un-sponsorable’, but that keeps it interesting, and I hope what we’re doing is educational, as well.”
Find Ali this summer at Beyond the Pale from 12-14 June and All Together Now from 30 July-2 August or follow her on Instagram @alidunworth.