Today I write from my holidays in Portugal, where I have spent a lovely morning fishing with my son, Connor. He is a very keen fisherman, and while a morning is enough for me, he would be happy fishing from dawn to dusk.

We were part of a group of eight who went on an excursion from the port. The others were all French, and oddly, it was three other father-and-son combinations. Connor caught some mackerel, sea bream and the biggest fish of the day, a 3kg red snapper. Our boat captain said the red snapper was a bit of an unusual catch where we were.

You are allowed to take what you catch home, but you return any small fish to the sea. So, this really was sea to fork! I gutted and scaled the fish and we had a family barbecue later that evening. Appropriately enough, Connor ate most of that fish he caught. He deserved it. We had plenty for all of us, and it doesn’t get much fresher than that!

Connor has been doing quite a bit of fishing at home. On the Blacklion River, there are trout, roach, perch and pike, and I think he has caught them all at this stage. Whenever we get a chance, we go to Mullaghmore too. Another high point this year was when he hooked a conger eel, which is quite the fish indeed, and a bit dangerous at his age. I wasn’t at all upset when the fish snapped the rod and it got away. Fortunately, his friend got a good photo of it, so we all know that this is not another fisherman’s tale.

Seasonal produce

Today, I have two nice light soups as we slowly make our way into the autumn. Asparagus is in season for this vegetarian soup. Or you could try broccoli or courgettes instead. The potato will help thicken the soup; there is no flour in this recipe, so it is also gluten-free. I love blue cheese in this soup, as it adds a lovely saltiness and creaminess. Be careful with the seasoning because it is quite salty already.

Tastes change throughout life, and I did not always like blue cheese. The first time I actually enjoyed it was when Amelda and I were on honeymoon in Bali and I ate it in an Italian restaurant. I still remember the taste with walnuts and celery and rocket, and I have loved it ever since.

We are very fortunate in Ireland to have several excellent producers. I have mentioned Cashel Blue recently, and they are celebrating 40 years in business. The business was set up by Louis and Jane Grubb in the 1980s on the family farm. The next generation is continuing the tradition on the same 200ac family farm in Co Tipperary.

Don’t forget the excellent Bellingham Blue made by Peter and Anita Thomas in Co Louth, is another great option. Young Buck, made in Newtownards, is another blue cheese I love. We are spoilt for choice.

There is some whisking in this recipe, so if you are thinking of getting a stick or hand blender, I think Bamix makes the best by far. It is ideal for anyone really interested in cooking. We have one at home and five more between the restaurant and the cookery school. It is great for smoothies and sauces and well worth the money. Christmas is not that far away!

The spinach and watercress soup is also vegetarian if you use a vegetable stock. Add a spoonful of pesto to jazz it up or some blitzed fresh basil leaves. I like the addition of spinach because it gives a nice intense colour, and we do eat with our eyes after all.

You could also use frozen peas in either of these recipes. Using the ice cubes might seem strange, but it’s a great way to keep the vibrant green colour. The poached eggs add a lovely richness. You really have two recipes in one here. I am often asked how to poach an egg, and it is a useful skill to have. A poached egg over some grilled fish is beautiful, particularly smoked haddock.

Ingredients Serves 4-6

675g bunch of asparagus, woody ends removed

50g butter

2 large shallots, finely chopped

1 potato, diced

900ml chicken or vegetable stock

175g blue cheese, crumbled

100ml cream, plus extra to garnish

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Crunchy croutons, to garnish

Extra virgin olive oil, to garnish

Method

1. Cut 5cm of the tips off the asparagus stalks and simmer them very gently in a pan of boiling salted water for 3–4 minutes, until just tender. Drain well and refresh under cold running water. Set aside.

2. Roughly chop the remaining stalks. Heat the butter in a large pan over a medium heat and add the shallots, potato and chopped asparagus stalks. Cover and cook gently for 10 minutes, until softened but not coloured, stirring once or twice.

3. Pour in the stock, season to taste and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes, until the potatoes are completely tender and the soup has thickened slightly. Leave the soup to cool a little. Then purée in batches in a food processor or with a hand-held liquidiser.

4. Return to the pan and whisk in most of the blue cheese, reserving some for a garnish, and the cream. Season to taste and reheat gently, being careful not to boil. Serve hot or chilled, ladled into bowls and garnished with the reserved asparagus tips, the rest of the blue cheese and a sprinkling of croutons. Drizzle over a little extra virgin olive oil to finish.

Ingredients Serves 4

1 tbsp white wine vinegar

4 medium eggs

25g butter

1 onion, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

300g watercress, tough stalks removed, plus extra sprigs to garnish

100g baby spinach leaves

500ml vegetable or chicken stock

225g ice cubes

2 tbsp crème fraîche

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

1. To prepare the poached eggs, heat a large pan with 2.25 litres of water. Add the white wine vinegar and bring to the boil. Break each egg into the water when it is bubbling. Then reduce the heat and simmer gently for 3 minutes, until the eggs are just cooked through but the yolks are still soft. Remove with a slotted spoon and plunge into a bowl of iced water.

2. Melt the butter in a large pan over a medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook for 2–3 minutes, until softened but not coloured. Increase the heat to high, then add the watercress and a pinch of salt. Cover with a lid and cook for 30 seconds. Add the spinach and cook for 1–2 minutes, until just wilted, stirring.

3. Pour in the stock and simmer for 2–3 minutes, but no longer, or you will lose the wonderful vibrant colour. Remove from the heat and add the ice to help the soup cool down quickly. Blitz in a blender or a food processor until smooth and put back into a clean pan.

4. When ready to serve, bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Reheat the soup and season to taste. Add the poached eggs to the boiling salted water and cook for 1 minute to warm through. Ladle the soup into warmed bowls.

5. Loosen the crème fraîche with a little water and add a swirl to each bowl. Top each bowl with a drained poached egg and a light grinding of black pepper. Garnish with the watercress sprigs to serve.