Just imagine, a turkey stuffed with a goose, stuffed with a duck, stuffed with a woodcock, stuffed with a snipe. The feast of meat must have looked and tasted wonderful. Gillian in the Smugglers Inn in Waterville was regaling us with memories from her childhood.

Her dad would prepare this feast for Christmas but first he’d have to go out and shoot the birds, which he thoroughly enjoyed.

We are creatures of habit and we have been going to the Smugglers Inn owned by Henry Hunt for many years. The Smugglers sits on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean on Inny beach. When I stepped out there, the smell of the sea was fresh and strong, the wind was in my face and I drew it down into my lungs. I started to relax.

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The sea is really noisy in Waterville and the waves are majestic and unpredictable.

I picked up a small brown stone with a white top. Tim explained how it showed millions of years under the sea, then a white line where calcium leached in, more compression over millions of years and then a white top where it came up from below the sea.

We talked of fossils and rocks. The little sanderlings running along the edge of the water kept me walking. The oystercatchers with their orange beaks and black and white distinctive plumage caught my eye and then I forgot everything. I was in the moment and free.

A busy spring

I was tired going to Waterville last Wednesday. It had been a very busy spring. Tim was tired too and in need of a break before breeding on the farm starts. We stayed three nights, sleeping a lot and eating scrumptious meals prepared by Henry and his team. “I’ll have the Skellig gin-cured seafood and the black sole”, I told Sean, who in turn told me a great story about his granny in Donegal. I’ve no idea how we got there.

Over breakfast, Tomas from Argentina told us stories about his travels and how Brexit disrupted his plans. The people who serve us in restaurants have their own lives. They work so hard. They deserve our respect and support

That’s the lovely part about the Smugglers, the staff are always willing to engage and unselfishly offer stories about their own lives, if you so wish to listen. Then there’s the banter with the Kerry man, Darragh, as he pretends to know his sea birds.

Marketa, from Czechia, is back for a second season in Waterville. Over breakfast, Tomas from Argentina told us stories about his travels and how Brexit disrupted his plans. The people who serve us in restaurants have their own lives. They work so hard. They deserve our respect and support.

We had lunch in Tide and Thyme in Caherdaniel. Tim had a goat’s cheese salad and the dressing on it was just finger licking gorgeous. We asked about it and the chef, Petra Satlerova shared her recipe. The waiter, Donal, was also happy to share stories with us too.

That’s another place to return to. It was a gorgeous lunch. We had dinner in Quinlan and Cooke in Cahersiveen on one of the days. As expected, it was top class.

Something for home

We drove out to Dingle and visited Louis Mulcahy pottery. I love to bring something home from trips. I bought two water jugs, going for the best value in sale pieces. On the way home, we stopped into Kenmare. Tim wanted to get a few long serving dishes for a Caprese salad. This is something I can eat even on bad days. A good vine tomato will always hold its flavour.

We happened upon Fiacra Crowley’s shop. A young man who started his business during COVID-19. Mammy Margaret was behind the counter doing the needful. Tim came away with his dishes.

A few days away is about the rest, our gorgeous countryside and supporting small businesses. Here’s hoping for a good season ahead for our friends at the Smugglers Inn.