Ireland has many tried-and-tested holiday destinations, where you know exactly what is in store if you visit the more established regions known for their fine dining, rich heritage and rugged coastline.
However, crossing the border throws open the island of Ireland to even more options, if you’re willing to consider a destination that despite a growing international tourism market, has yet to strike a chord with your average Irish tourist.
Dunluce Lodge is nestled on the outskirts of one of Northern Ireland’s oldest seaside holiday destinations. Portrush is best known for its amusement parks, its vast sandy beaches and its world class golf links – Royal Portrush, that hosted last year’s Open Championship and which fourth tee lies directly in front of this five-star luxury resort.
But what this north Antrim town is less well known for is its rising reputation as a world-class culinary destination. Dunluce Lodge executive head chef Stephen Holland is leading the charge of culinary mastery with his seasonal, sustainable menu. Featuring local producers front and centre, the wide variety and excellent quality on offer provide a link from land to plate that is unrivalled in this part of the world.
The welcome offered as you enter the courtyard of Dunluce Lodge is the first indication you’re in for a luxurious treat. A sea of wild flowers planted in a centrepiece by the front doors gives the first clue that everything you’re about to encounter from this point on is carefully considered and curated.
Hot hand towels and a warm Antrim welcome are extended by the staff, whose courtesy is understated but charm is wholesome.
The Lodge itself exudes a quiet charm, with a drawing room offering a peaceful place to gather your thoughts and enjoy a beverage before you are shown to your room.
What’s interesting is that with all 35 rooms are decorated to the same high standard, with luxurious touches from underfloor heating to rainfall showers, there’s no hierarchy to the guest experience in the main lodge.
Culinary excellence
However, if you’re after a more intimate escape, particularly if your visit involves a gathering of friends or family, The Stookan offers the ultimate exclusivity.
Located alongside the main property, the secluded annex sleeps up to 16 people and gives the option of bespoke dining and quiet moments by the fire or on the terrace.
Back in the main lodge, dining experiences vary from bar food to an elegant cellar space, The Vault, that offers a more intimate and atmospheric dining experience. Soft lighting and a sense of old-world charm is complemented by a collection of rare wines and premium whiskeys.
Menus at Dunluce Lodge are shaped by seasonality, sustainability and close relationships with local farmers, fishermen and artisan producers. A Tyrone native, Stephen’s cooking journey has been inspired by the women in his life, namely his mother Patricia and great aunt Kathleen, the latter of whom sparked a lifelong passion for culinary excellence.
Working alongside celebrity chef Rich Stein before he returned to his native Ulster, Stephen was determined to champion Northern Irish produce.
“Our aim is to give diners a true taste of this place and celebrate its rich bounty, by working with exceptional local producers and allowing those ingredients to shine,” says Stephen.
“The Causeway Coast offers an incredible natural pantry. Our oysters from Co Down are pristine on their own, but we lift them with Burren balsamic horseradish vinegar and lemon. The Kilkeel crab and mussel salad, is finished with a delicate fennel and dulse pickle.
“Seafood is a constant thread throughout the menu. Grilled local fish is paired with sweet brown shrimp, samphire and a sharp lemon and bay vinegar. Halibut is elevated with crayfish, samphire and radish, while hake is served with charred leek, potato and leek pavé and a robust XO sauce. Each dish is rooted in both technical precision and a strong sense of place.”
Visitor experiences
Fear not if fish isn’t to your liking, meat lovers are not left out in the cold.
With provenance a prime concern for Stephen and his team, the 400g bone-in sirloin of Lisdergan beef is a celebration of Northern Ireland’s exceptional farming. Lisdergan flax-fed beef fillet is complemented by braised beef cheek and fine herb stock, while Eccelgreens pork is paired with Armagh apple butter and preserved fennel. The memory of these dishes is making this writer salivate as she types.
After all that food, a brisk beach walk is in order given that the property is located alongside the renowned Whiterocks beach, which can be accessed via a private walkway.
The village of Bushmills, home to Bushmills Distillery, is only up the road and home to one of the oldest whiskey distilleries in the world. Tim Cooke, a tour guide at the distillery, brings his expertise in sharing the craft, character, and heritage behind this celebrated Irish whiskey.
For those with a more adventurous streak, the Lodge can also arrange fishing trips, where guests can catch part of their dinner, so long as they enjoy mackerel. Hard work is compensated massively by the stunning coastline scenery, which includes the ruins of Dunluce Castle, as featured in the global hit Game of Thrones.
Other world-famous landmarks to enjoy include the Giant’s Causeway and the Carrickarede Rope Bridge, that was first erected 250 years ago and is suspended almost 100ft above sea level. The trek down to the bridge takes in stunning coastal scenery and rare wildlife, which explains why it is one of the north’s most popular outstanding areas of natural beauty.
Guests can avail of a bespoke walking tour led by Mark Rodgers, who is the ultimate storyteller and a wealth of local knowledge. This can be organised by request with hotel staff.
The food will draw you in, but a visit to Dunluce Lodge is so much more. The quiet, calm luxury, where relaxation is the primary goal and offers a treat in itself, is worth the journey to the northern most part of our island.
You’ll leave with a renewed appreciation for the value of local tourism, enriched with local produce that is reimagined by world leading culinary masters.
For more information on room rates and dining options log on to dunluce.com or call +44 (0)28-705-31700. Jacqueline Hogge was a guest of Dunluce Lodge.
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