Some people are quick to tidy away the leaves and stems of perennial flowers in October and November, but in the process they lose not only the perennials’ show of autumn colour but the winter decorative value of the seed-heads and stems too.

Take a walk around the garden at this time of year and see how many perennial flowers make a useful contribution to the autumn colour show. Look at them not as perennial flowers in decline, but as plants in another season of beauty.

Some kinds are reliably good, for instance, hosta. Green in summer, Hosta fortunei can turn to a lovely deep yellow shade and pale gold. Gold-leaved or variegated hosta offers good yellow. Even though blue-green in summer, Hosta sieboldiana can turn to attractive yellow.

Hardy geraniums are very good too, such as Geranium macrorhizum, which makes a mat of orange and red leaves. The bloody cranesbill, Geranium sanguineum, and its forms can make a fine show of low-growing colour, excellent on a bank or rock-garden at the edge of a path.

Solomon’s seal is beautiful at the moment, with arching stems and yellow leaves and the related smilacina is good too. The willow gentian has similar tall arching leaves and good yellow and orange shades.

Most kinds of persicaria take on some colour as the leaves fade, even the semi-evergreen, low-grower Persicaria affinis can put on a fine show of red leaves. Astilbe often shows a good touch of red or orange colour before the leaves eventually turn brown.

The autumn leaves of Sedum spectabile can be very beautiful, with soft shades of yellow and pink. Dicentra spectabilis, the tall kind for early summer, also shows soft yellow and pink as it melts away in summer, long before autumn colour arises. Rodgersia and darmera have large rounded leaves that colour well, especially Rodgersia podophylla ,which turns orange-red (shown). Eupatorium, or Joe Pye weed, is tall and its pink-purple flowers are followed by the leaves turning orange and yellow, making a good contrast.

Agapanthus leaves can show a good bright shade of yellow on deciduous kinds. The large grey-green leaves of Lobelia tupa may turn soft gold with pink-flushed stems, more impressive if the soil is not too rich. Lysimachia clethroides shows yellow leaves and reddish stems into winter. Amsonia has willow-like narrow leaves and stems that change to bright yellow too, the whole plant making a fine sight. Lythrum turns its leaves deep yellow, orange or red. Physalis makes orange Chinese lanterns, nicely set off by pure yellow leaves before the leaves fall.

Peonies can show good colour too, as the leaves decline with splashes of red and brown. Canna foliage turns to yellow or red shades as autumn moves on. Some forms of bergenia, though evergreen, such as ‘Ballawley’ or ‘Rot Blum’ can change to red or dull purple. Widely known, Euphorbia griffithii ‘Fireglow’ has orange and red tints on its flowers in spring, and these colours re-appear in an autumn blaze. The lower, clump-forming Euphorbia polychroma can give a nice show of yellow. Euphorbia dulcis has outstanding red stems and red, orange and yellow leaves.

Grasses are among the stars of the autumn border, especially miscanthus, grown for its soft plumes and fine foliage, but producing a good show of colour in autumn too. Some varieties are outstanding, such as ‘Ferner Osten’ which takes on red hues, even wine-purple sometimes. The variety ‘Malepartus’ shows crimson, orange and deep yellow, and ‘Rotsilber’ can flush to lovely red shades.

Panicum varieties, such as ‘Squaw’ or ‘Hanse Hermes’ show good orange and red colour. Some ferns change colour to yellow and then brown, notably osmunda and matteuccia. Although autumn foliage colour is almost never the reason to choose a herbaceous perennial that colours well, it is certainly a bonus. CL

Apple scab

Apple scab disease is very common on many kinds of apple tree, though it is not as widespread this autumn as might have been expected, with plenty of showers in summer. Apple scab is a wet-weather disease, caused by a fungus that needs damp leaves on which to germinate its spores. It would seem that the required half-day of dampness did not occur too often, and spore germination, leading to scabby spots on the fruit, was impeded.

In addition to fruit scabs, the fungus can cause dead twigs and these, along with the fallen leaves carrying the fungus, are the source of fresh spores next year. It is beneficial, when pruning, to remove dead twigs, if possible, and to rake up fallen apple leaves, and compost them thoroughly.

Flowers

Plant all kinds of spring bulbs without delay to give them a good start. In flower beds and containers, the old plants are fading fast, especially with a touch of frost. Replace them with plants for winter and spring, including bulbs. Begin dividing perennial flowers, or planting new ones.

Lawns

Use lawn mosskiller now if necessary, particularly in shaded areas. Continue mowing and use an autumn lawn fertiliser, unless grass growth has stopped or the ground is too wet. There is still time to over-sow bare and worn patches, but the sooner it is done, the better the result.

Fruit, vegetables and herbs

Remove old vegetables as soon as they are finished and do not allow weeds to build up. Lift and store potatoes and carrots now for winter use. Parsnips generally keep better when left in the ground. Prune raspberries, blackcurrants and gooseberries. Divide herbaceous herbs.

Trees, shrubs and roses

Plant evergreens of all kinds, either from pots or as root-balled plants. All kinds of potted trees and shrubs can be planted too. Check that young trees are securely staked if they need it – wind-rocking can seriously damage, and even kill, young trees. Prune rambler roses, tying in new stems.

Greenhouse and house plants

Pick the last few tomatoes showing some colour to ripen off the vine. Keep the greenhouse tidy and ventilated. Do not over-water, or splash water about, to reduce the risk of grey mould disease. Watch for snails sheltering under empty boxes and pots, and remove them.