Dierama is quite common in gardens these days. This was not always the case as it was not well known a couple of decades ago. It was the “angel’s fishing rod” name that captured the imagination of many people.

The name comes from the arching shape of the flower stems. The flower stems are very slender, silvery and upright when they first appear but soon arching over, bending in an attractive arch, not unlike the bent tip of an angler’s fishing rod.

The bell-shaped flowers open and each one dangles on a thread-like flower stem. The colour can vary very dramatically from very pale pink to dark blackberry wine, but mostly it is a light purple-pink colour. When the flowers fall, small round seed pods form, each one containing several quite large seeds.

The ease of seeding will usually require the removal of seedlings each year. The seedlings are grass-like and upright, easily pulled out or hoed when small. But it can be quite difficult to remove strong seedlings that manage to take root in the middle of existing perennial flowers. For example, dierama will germinate and grow in the middle of red-hot poker or a geranium to the point where it takes over.

Self-sowing is also the reason that good named varieties are lost. Any seed pod will give plants of several different shades. Some may not show much difference, just a bit lighter or darker, but sometimes there are good dark shades or pretty light ones. The plants take three or four years to flower.

The plant is part of the iris family and produces round corms each year. These are tough and stack on top of each other and make it hard to dig out unwanted plants. It is also difficult to lift established plants for moving, without causing damage. As a result, dierama often takes a full year to recover from being moved. The species grows in grassy mountain meadows, well-drained but not too dry, as shown in the drought when flower stems flopped.

The main kind that grows in gardens is the species Dierama pulcherrimum. This is a magnificent plant with evergreen grassy foliage and arching flower wands to over two metres tall and sometimes over three metres in length. The bell-shaped flowers open in succession so that flowering lasts several weeks in mid-summer.

The elegant wands persist into winter eventually becoming withered and brittle. But if there is a problem with excessive self-sowing, it’ll take just a few minutes to snip off the seed-forming flower stems.

There is also the much smaller, about half-size, Dierama dracomontanum, which has more upright and less arching flower wands. Its flowers dangle too but are more flared than bell-shaped.

The two species hybridise very easily, even to the extent that planted near each other in gardens, types intermediate in size and flower shape will appear within a few years.

Some of these might be worth picking out and preserving.

Any kind of dierama is worth having. It is not a happy plant in a pot for sale, but once planted out into good quality, well drained garden soil, the plant begins to grow more strongly. In the past it was passed on by gardeners, who almost always have too many seedlings. Once it gets established, even 30-year-old plants will stay as a grassy clump not more than one metre in diameter. It does not need rich ground, but it needs well drained-ground and it needs full sunshine. What a sight it is in flower at this time of year!

Drought damage

Very severe damage has been caused by the drought, from trees to lawns. Many young trees and some established trees, especially birch, hornbeam and conifers have died, often beside others that are less affected, or not affected at all. This is not a mystery. Each tree that has died has a root system that was compromised to some degree, and not functioning as it should.

Either the soil was too shallow or sandy, or the roots were already attacked by honey fungus or other root disease, or the tree roots had been damaged by winter water-logging, or the tree was planted too deeply to start with.

Vegetables were badly affected unless watered adequately, maturing prematurely or just running to seed. Most lawns have been badly burned, especially in the east on light soil, but will recover. Some will require over-sowing onto the dead sod when moist conditions return. Fruit is affected and should be watered where possible.

This week

Fruit, vegetables and herbs

Herbs, such as French tarragon, sage and basil, need to be trimmed back. If water is available, Swiss chard, mustard leaves and lettuce can be sown for a late crop. Spring cabbage should be sown in the next two or three weeks to be planted out in late September.

Trees, shrubs and roses

Water young trees that are struggling. Roses can be dead-headed to encourage a good late show of flowers. Early flowering shrub roses and ramblers that have now finished could be pruned by removing some of the shoots that flowered. Trim off excessive shoots on wisteria.

Lawns

Lawns indicate the severity of the drought. Some lawns on dry soil or shallow soil are completely burned, not so badly on heavier soil. Tree roots under a lawn have exacerbated the damage. If there is some growth as in areas that got a few showers, run over with the mower blades set high.

Flowers

Bedding plants in pots and baskets are in continuing need of regular watering and feeding. Feeding every two weeks or so is essential to keep the plants going after the first flush. Through the dry weeks, and because the roots have now filled the pots, watering has become more critical.

Greenhouse and house plants

In a greenhouse or tunnel, shrub cuttings can be taken now. Many kinds are easy to raise in a pot or tray covered with white polythene. Also take cuttings of geraniums, fuchsias and other tender plants to overwinter for next year. Continue to water carefully, using recycled water where possible.