Hector Ó hEochagáin must have every byroad and boreen in Ireland travelled. Irish Country Living is no sooner perched on the seat in front of him than he wants to know where I’m from. It turns out he knows the exact area, the villages either side of it – and that the pub over the road is getting in a new kitchen.

“I was in there for a few sandwiches about two weeks ago,” he quips.