When it comes to enjoying a bit of grub, Cork certainly has its fair share of attractions. From the hustle and bustle of the English market to the fish capital of Kinsale, and let’s not forget the success story that is Ballymaloe – you certainly won’t go hungry.

However, there is a little pub on the outskirts of Blarney that many Corkonians might not tell you about, mostly because they want to keep this hidden gem to themselves. But this week, Irish Country Living is letting you in on the local secret. Run by brothers Richard and Duncan, Blairs Inn is the kind of traditional Irish pub that you simply need to stop and explore.

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A hidden gem

The one problem with this place is if you blink, you could miss it. But once you walk through the creaky wooden doors, you know you’re in the right place. Richard, one of the Blair brothers, runs front of house and this is exactly where we meet him.

“Sit down anywhere you like and I’ll be right with you.”

However, a quick glance around the cosy little pub reveals that there aren’t too many seats left in the front bar – and this was a Monday night. Plates loaded with lamb shanks are brought to a nearby table while another waitress carries a Cosmo cocktail. It doesn’t take a genius to realise that this rural pub survived the recession by offering something a little bit different.

“Ironically enough, the decision to do food happened without any plan,” explains Richard. “Our parents ran the pub for years before myself and Duncan. About 30 years ago, it was a simple pub and the local men used come in during their lunch breaks and have a few pints.

“My mother started making them a few ham sandwiches and then in the winter this progressed to a stew or casserole. She was a great cook and over time people started showing up looking for her lunches after hearing about them through word of mouth. I remember when we were young, the menus were little blackboards that my Dad would bring around to tables.

“It really did progress organically, due to good food and demand rather than a big strategic plan. After a few years, my parents figured they needed a restaurant and the plan started on the back of a napkin one night. The only problem is that over the years as the restaurant was built and the kitchen expanded, our family home got smaller and smaller,” laughs Richard.

Heart and wholesome meals

No matter how much the pub has grown, the concept of giving customers good quality, hearty meals made with local ingredients has stayed the same. Duncan has taken over the reins of head chef from his mother with Catherine Doyle at his side, who has worked in Blairs for 20 years, and her mother Mary before her.

He says that while the team likes to experiment with trends such as slow cooking, he is still using recipes passed down from his mother.

“I actually have no problem sharing our recipes with customers. I mean we didn’t invent cooking and I’ll often get a phone call from a local who is halfway through cooking our roast duck dish for example, asking me what to do next.

“We all have our techniques that we like to show off, but what we’re really about is using the best ingredients, although sometimes we have to pay more to get it just right. Our vegetables come from Waterfall Farm a few miles away and they offer more alternative vegetables, such as chard or kale, and our corned beef comes from O’Crualaoi’s butchers who are famous for quality meat in Cork.”

The taste test

With all this talk of food, it was time to cut to the chase and taste this corned beef – their most popular dish.

“We’re cooking a silverside every day,” says Richard, and the tenderness of the meat complimented by the creamy parsley sauce conjures up childhood memories all in one bite.

As the meat is soaked, the flavour runs right the way through. For starters, their oven-baked parcel of mushrooms, red onions and St. Tola organic goats’ cheese melts in your mouth. And for fish fans, their medallions of monkfish and salmon in a rich and creamy white wine and gubbeen chorizo sauce is a great combination of salt and spice.

What makes the experience all the more enjoyable is that you are getting restaurant food but in the informal setting of a traditional pub, so you really can kick back and relax without all the pretentiousness of fine dining.

While Duncan and Richard really have continued with the core elements that made Blairs Inn a success for their parents, they have added their own twist to the place.

For example, while you can get all your regular beers on tap, Richard has really invested in craft beers. You can get Black Rock Stout from Dungarvan Brewing Company on cask all year round, with a further three beers on draught, including the popular Blarney Blonde from the Franciscian Well. They also support Eight Degrees Brewing in Ballyhoura or if you fancy beers from further afield, there is a selection from Belgium, Germany, Scotland and America.

A Quaint Setting

You can enjoy these with a barbecue during the summer months on picnic tables out in the beer garden, which is quaint, relaxing and surrounded by flowers in bloom. Alternatively, during the winter months, you’ll be better placed and a little cosier next to the roaring fire with traditional music playing in the background.

Richard says: “Associations such as Good Food Ireland really gave us great ideas on moving the business forward.”

Be warned though, when it comes to price, you may find yourself paying a bit more than what you would for normal bar food, but we guess that at this stage, you know, Blairs Inn doesn’t serve just any pub grub.