Pieter says to start with the hind feet. Usually, the outer claw takes most of the weight in the hind feet. Clean the hoof and then inspect it first. Cleaning can be done with sawdust or paper towels. This not only makes the area dry but it also prevents tools from getting wet and slipping out of your hands. The first steps involve checking the lengths and levels of the inner claw and also checking the lengths and levels of the outer claw. The claw of an average Holstein cow should be approximately 7.5cm long and the sole about 0.5cm thick.

If the inner claw is too long, cut it back to a length of 7.5cm. This is measured starting from the coronary band, where the horn starts. This can be done with a measuring stick. If the hoof is too short, then don’t cut it. Cut back the length of the outer claw to the same length as the inner claw. Trim the sole of the outer claw to an equal height as the inner claw (if possible). In case of a buckled toe (laminitic claw), it is not always possible to reach the same height in the toe. The heel is more important, because it bears most of the weight. If both claws in the heel are level, the weight is evenly distributed cutting out undue pressure on an individual claw. Leave 5mm to 7mm thickness in the sole. If you go too thin, it could cause lameness in the cow.

The next step is modelling. Trim the claws into a slightly hollow shape, starting 2.5cm to 3cm from the toe towards the heel. This will keep the space between the claws clean and airy (preventing inter-digital dermatitis/slurry heel). “The inner claw gets a steep model, while the outer claw gets more of a shallower model,” explains Craig.

The first three steps are all preventative lameness methods. Some cows that are already lame require the curative approach. Pieter says: “The most important thing is to take the pain away. This helps the curing.” If there is a defect like a sole ulcer and/or a wall ulcer, the claw must be trimmed down further. This creates a height difference between the healthy and damaged claw and the weight bearing is partly transferred to the healthy claw. The damaged claw can heal more quickly. In the case of too little height difference, a block (cowslip) may be applied to the healthy claw to raise its height. In the case of bruising of the sole, a height difference can be made, but don’t trim the sole too thin. Step four is not needed during preventative trimming.

Next, Craig advises to remove any faeces at the back of the heel. Remove loose horn and hard ridges at the heel area of the claws. Pay special attention to save as much as possible of the posterior part of the inner claw. Finally, check the feet for digital dermatitis and treat accordingly.

Pieter Kloosterman and Craig Laurence recently held a professional foot-trimming course explaining the five-step Dutch method. This course was organised by Dúnmasc Genetics based in Co Laois. Pieter says farmers or professional trimmers interested in looking after their cows’ hooves should do a similar course to make sure they are carrying out the work properly.

The procedure of trimming in five steps described on this page refers to hind feet. For trimming forefeet, read inner claw for outer claw and vice versa.

Equipment needed for hoof trimming

Craig advises to invest in the following equipment for hoof trimming.

  • Knives: get some decent, sharp ones. They are worth the investment. There is nothing more dissatisfying than blunt knives. Feet take longer to do and results will be poor with blunt knives.
  • Hoof trimmers: 12in hoof trimmers are ideal with one-inch bite.
  • Wrist guards: they help to protect your lower arms from cuts caused by the trimmed hoof or the knives.
  • Approach every lame cow in exactly the same way as you would for a routine trim.
  • Do not be tempted to attack the problem first.
  • Trim and balance the foot, then address the lesion.
  • If you don’t know what you are doing, seek help from a either an experienced vet or a professional hoof trimmer.
  • Record accurate details of what you find for future reference.