Herlihy’s Halfway-House

Bottles of gin and whiskey beckon from behind the bar of Herlihy’s Halfway-House in Farranfore, Co Kerry. But all is not what it seems.

“Those bottles, you can drink as much as you like… of water and tea,” laughs Marie O’Sullivan, who has converted her family pub to unique self-catering accommodation.

Marie – an archaeologist by profession – explains there’s been a history of refreshments served on this site since the 1830s, when the first toll was set up on the “mail coach” road between Tralee and Cork.

Marie O'Sullivan in her family bar, Herlihy's in Farranfore, which has been converted to unique self-catering accommodation. \ John Reidy

Records show that the first person to have the bar was a man called John Smith, but uniquely, it has since passed down through female hands; though Marie’s family’s history here starts in 1912, when her great-grandfather, Michael Collins, bought the pub for his eldest daughter Minnie, on the occasion of her marriage. Sadly, she passed away in 1925 and as her husband had no interest in running the business, Michael bought it back for his daughter Kathleen, who was Marie’s grandmother.

“So it went from my grandaunt to my grandmother to my mother to myself,” explains Marie.

Growing up, Marie has happy memories of pub life, especially after her parents, Maura and Pat, diversified as an overnight stop for tourists who came to Kerry on horse-drawn caravan holidays. While her parents ran the pub, Marie completed her degree and masters in archaeology and worked in a number of positions, from lecturing to consultancy. In 2006, however, her career took a turn when her father died suddenly.

The garden area at the back of Herlihy's Bar in Farranfore. \ John Reidy

“I’d never filled a drink… and I became a publican overnight,” explains Marie. By then, however, the smoking ban and tighter drink driving legislation were having an impact, while the economic crash meant many of the next generation were emigrating.

“Then the age group that were traditional pub-goers, they started to die and there was nobody to replace them,” explains Marie, who tried everything from a monthly rambling house and ladies’ nights to crossroads dancing to keep the business going. “But eventually, by the time that I had everything paid for, I had €100 for my efforts (from the crossroads dancing) and I think that is an aspect of pub life that people don’t appreciate. It’s very costly to run a pub.

And by 2016 – 10 years after taking over – Marie was faced with the decision to continue, or close the bar.

“It was a very difficult decision to make because of the history,” she says, “but at the end of the day, I knew it was the right decision for me and ultimately it was.”

Marie served her last drinks on Women’s Christmas 2017 without a firm plan of what to do with the bar. She knew though that she wanted to preserve the streetscape; and the bar counter.

“That very much limited what I could do with the space because obviously I couldn’t turn it into office space or a beautician’s or a hairdresser and leave a bar counter,” she explains. “And it was out of wanting to keep the bar counter really that the idea of the accommodation came about.”

The second bedroom at Herlihy's Bar in Farranfore.

Realising that tourists would love the idea of “sleeping in a rural bar”, Marie applied for change of use and spent the next year managing the project herself through direct labour.

While the original features of the pub have been retained, the sofa converts into a double bed, while there is a cooker, fridge and dishwasher tucked neatly behind the bar. Meanwhile, the former cold store, bottle room and toilet block have been converted to a wheelchair-accessible luxury bedroom, wet room and utility.

Opened last summer, Marie has had bookings from as far as the US and Russia, mostly through booking.com, where she has an “exceptional” rating. Many guests use it as a base to explore the Ring of Kerry and beyond, with Marie close to hand to help plan her guests’ itineraries.

For other rural pubs that are struggling, it is important to think outside the box.

“There is life after death for a country pub, you just have to think about what you want to do with it; and I’ve no regrets.”

The rate for two people per night is €110, or €150 for up to four people. There is a two night minimum stay. Find “Herlihy’s Halfway House” on www.booking.com

Wild Atlantic Bus

Most people who need an extra bedroom or two “do a Dermot Bannon” and build an extension. But Richard Barton? Well, he bought – and converted – a double-decker bus.

And it’s now one of the most unique Airbnb experiences in Ireland, sleeping up to six people close to the shores of Lough Corrib, just outside Oughterard, Co Galway.

Originally from Goatstown, Co Dublin, Richard previously worked in the floristry and landscaping business, but has always been a dab hand at DIY, particularly when it comes to restoring vintage vehicles; not surprising, seeing as both his grandfather and father were in the motor trade.

The Wild Atlantic Bus is located close to Oughterard, Connemara. \ Richard Barton

Having always had “a grá” for the country, Richard and his wife Nuala had moved to Cong, Co Mayo, in 2002, but sadly, their hopes for the future were cruelly quashed when Nuala fell ill and died in July 2014.

As Richard entered unchartered territory as a widower, it became clear that the house in Cong was no longer suitable. While visiting friends in Oughterard, however, he came across a small cottage for sale that reminded him of his first home with Nuala and – recognising that the renovation would help keep him occupied – purchased it.

There was just one problem, though. While the two-bedroom house for perfect for him, with two grown-up daughters, Laura and Clodagh, plus friends and family visiting regularly, he needed just a bit more space.

Around the same time, however, he spotted a 1990 Alexander Volvo double-decker bus for sale in Dublin. Originally from England, it had been used in Ireland as a school bus; but Richard recognised its potential to accommodate guests and after buying it in 2017, spent a year painstakingly converting it.

And the result is something else. Having stripped the bus back to a shell to sort out practicalities such as insulation and wiring, it now comfortably sleeps six people between the downstairs and upstairs mezzanine area, with on-board luxuries including a fully-fitted kitchen with a Belfast sink, a toilet and shower room, wraparound seating area and even a wood-burning stove.

Meanwhile, in its own landscaped garden area, there is a fire pit, a cabin for coats and boots after a day out and even a cedar-lined outdoor shower overlooking the local farmland (and the occasional nosy cow).

But while Richard initially envisioned that the bus would just be for private use, his daughters saw that it had greater potential.

“One of them had said, ‘This could be a little rental, this is kind of unique’ and it was at that point that I said, ‘There is something here’,” he recalls.

Indeed, it was the girls that helped him with the finishing touches like furnishings as well as setting up social media, as did Helen, his partner that he met last year.

And with their support, Richard completed work on the Wild Atlantic Bus in September 2018 and made it available on Airbnb for a fee of €120 a night for two people, with a charge of €15 per head for additional guests.

To date, he has had guests from all over Ireland, England, Scotland, France and the US, who are attracted by the unique offering and the rural location in the heart of Connemara.

A quick glance at Airbnb reveals a string of five-star reviews, with Richard explaining that little things – like having the stove lit before his guests arrive in the colder months – go a long way.

“I think it’s just making sure that everything is right, they feel at home, they feel comfortable – not invading their privacy – but that you’re there, because they’re coming for that,” he says.

Richard Barton pictured at the Wild Atlantic Bus

As for future plans, Richard has a rare 1962 Bedford horse box that he believes he could convert to sleep two people; though he is still on the lookout for vintage vehicles, so watch this space.

“I nearly bought another bus last week,” he laughs.

For further information, visit www.wildatlanticbus.com