A wet spring followed by a hot, dry summer meant that this year was very difficult for Irish vegetable growers. It’s something that came into sharp focus in March, when one of the country’s largest carrot growers went into administration, citing wage and input-cost inflation, weak market demand and the growing conditions caused by “relentless rain”. It’s a stark picture of what it’s like to be a vegetable grower in Ireland and the numbers are telling. Back in 1999, there were 377 vegetable growers; today, there’s approximately 60.
One recent bright light was the news that Aldi, Dunnes Stores, Lidl, Marks & Spencer, SuperValu/Centra and Tesco have all committed to five new Horticulture Grower-Retail Charter principles. With the aim of supporting the long-term sustainability of Irish growers, the charter was steered by the Horticultural Industry Forum (HIF) sub-committee, which includes the Department of Agriculture, Food and the Marine, Teagasc, Bord Bia and the IFA. It was chaired by grower representative Orla McManus. This is a voluntary charter, but hopefully it will enable the industry to reset the power imbalance that has existed between retailers and growers and make their businesses more viable. We can all help by buying Irish fruit and vegetables. Plus, you’re helping to support more than18,000 families that are involved in the Irish horticulture sector.
We’re loving the look of Bia Úr on TG4, an eight-part series presented by Kirsten Mate Maher – you might recognise her from her stint as Rose of Tralee in 2018 – and Allie Stack. On Wednesday nights at 8.30pm, Bia Úr celebrates Irish contemporary food, showcasing influences and flavours from chefs, food entrepreneurs and home cooks who have made their home here.
It features some of our favourite food folk telling their stories, including Ahmet Dede of Michelin-starred restaurant Dede in west Cork; Yoshimi Hayakawa of Wa Café in Galway; Cloud Picker Coffee’s Frank Kavanagh and Peter Sztal; and Dublin-based Lily Ramirez-Foran of Picado Mexican. Also featured in the series are Braai in Donegal, Cork’s Izz Café, Killarney’s Tango Street Food and Olive’s Seoul Food in Claremorris, among others. All these people are putting incredible food on our plates and expanding our palates, one fresh, delicious bite at a time.
“He was a bold man, that first eat an oyster,” wrote Jonathan Swift, Dean of Dublin’s St Patrick’s Cathedral, in the 18th century. We’re still being bold and enjoying the bivalves, and there’s just enough time to catch Oyster Month at The Shelbourne in Dublin, before the end of September. The No. 27 Bar & Lounge and The Saddle Room has a special menu from the coastline, highlighting Louth’s Carlingford oysters, Clare’s Flaggy Shore oysters and Kelly’s gigas oysters from Galway Bay. You don’t have to be too brave to try any of these beauties, whether it’s au naturel, with a ponzu or Bloody Mary dressing or even cooked. The Shelbourne Lawyer: pairing the oysters with Liscannor crab and a whiskey glaze, is a signature dish for executive chef Garry Hughes. There are tailored drinks pairings too, to make the most of the whole experience. See theshelbourne.com
Are you a food tour person? When I travel, it’s always one of the first things I want to do. Tours are ideal to get an insight into the food culture of a city or locality, a way of finding the perfect coffee spot to return to while you wander the streets with a knowledgeable guide and taste regional specialities. I’ve had brilliant experiences in Vietnam, New Zealand and Amsterdam, but some of the best have been right here in Ireland. A trip around Galway with the knowledgeable Sheena Dignam a few years ago was memorable and she now has an evening food tour in Kilkenny. Supported by Kilkenny County Council’s Night Time Economy initiative, the three-hour tours (€150 per person for a group of two to six people) are a great way to explore the evening city and discover new favourites, while tasting and sipping along the way. See kilkennyfoodtours.ie
Blood of the Boyne, Widow’s Friend, Ard Cairn Russet, Cavan Sugarcane: the wonderful names of Irish heritage apples are worth celebrating, along with their delicious fruit. This weekend, on Saturday 26 and Sunday 27 September, the Úll Abú apple festival at the Organic Centre in Rossinver, Co Leitrim, will focus on the importance of the apple in Irish food culture. A seasonal Supper Club with chef Mike Harris of Edergole Kitchen takes place on Saturday and then Sunday is Apple Day. There will be apple pressing and cookery demonstrations, the opportunity to meet with regional food and drink producers, along with discussions on the future of food and growing in Ireland. Elaine Bradley of Irish Seed Savers will also speak on the importance of saving rare seeds and appreciating our heritage apple trees. See theorganiccentre.ie
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