A green van buzzed into the apartment complex where my friend Ann and I were staying on Achill Island for a few days. We were having breakfast, looking out on the view where the sea meets land and sky. Occasional showers and intermittent sunshine gave rise to a shimmering tapestry of gentle colours. White, foamy Atlantic waves rolled in from a sea of blue and silver, breaking onto shiny, golden sand. They trickled towards the meandering border of multi-coloured, rounded stones. Majestic mountains formed part of the backdrop, while an expansive sea gave rise to unrestrained dreams.

While I had visited the largest of our offshore islands previously, I had never stayed there.

Out stepped the tall gentleman from the green van, holding aloof a plastic container.

“Is that JP?” says Ann. “I recognise his green van.” He made a striking figure in shining yellow all-weather dungarees over blue overalls. Could he want us we wondered. Ann went out the door to find out. Sure enough JP did want us. In the box were several crab legs with claws intact. They were bright orange on top, with undersides of pearly cream. The strong colours signified absolute freshness.

JP had taken them from the wild Atlantic sea earlier in the morning and cooked them for us. We were seriously impressed by his generosity. Ann and I had happened upon JP the previous evening, when we visited Purteen pier on lower Achill.

I was taking some photographs of Inishgallon. It is a little island on the south western side of Achill. The sheep grazing on top belong to three of the island’s sheep farmers. All over Achill, the sheep roam freely, often walking along the middle of the road, ignoring the tourist traffic. They are an attraction in themselves with their curly horns and spindly legs, like ladies on high heels. Ann, the sheep farmer, got a great kick out of them.

Cartoon by Clyde Delaney.

Tea at the pier

We visited JP at Purteen pier in the evening to hear more stories of Achill, its history and its people. While we were there, several men called in for a chat and to collect fish. JP has been a fisherman for 63 years.

With his faithful Labrador, Jessie, at his feet, he offered the two ladies tea and biscuits. Mattie, a sheep farmer, came to call for a half cup. Peter, the funfair man from Enniskillen, called as he was packing up the trucks to leave Achill after a lovely summer. It would all start again next year.

We talked of the deserted village at Slievemore and of upper and lower Achill. We watched the youngest fisherman, Paul, shooting out to sea on his boat to lay nets. JP spoke of their delight at seeing a young fishermen keeping up the tradition. There are only four boats fishing out of Purteen now. Fishing is like farming: tough and rewarding. The season will end in October and begin again in March, when the weather calms.

Like many men from the west of Ireland, JP worked on the railways in England for “15 years too long”. The travelling was torturous, taking two days by train and ferry. The worst part was the crying of families as they passed through the stations all the way to Dublin.

The men worked long hours, seven days a week, but always found time to go to mass back then. The money was sent home to the parents. Most men returned to settle on Achill. JP met his Scottish wife, Maureen, when her family was holidaying on the island. She is a chef at Gieltys and “works too hard” he says. The couple have two adult children, Sean and Sarah. JP speaks highly of everyone. He is some ambassador for Achill, yet unassuming and unpretentious.

Last year, Purteen Cold Stores was brought to fruition by the determination of many local people. The building and all the labour were volunteered. The project was completed in eight weeks and now fish can be stored for distribution with minimal waste.

We bought a mallet in Sweeney’s Hardware to break our crab legs. I also found some strong buckets for 2019 calving. Once our mallet job was completed, we sat down to a crab salad and brown scones from the Beehive Restaurant. We finished off with coffee cake from The Cottage. A feast indeed.

There is lots to do and places to visit on Achill, from water sports to craft, pottery and art galleries. Liam Kelly is a wood sculptor of Achill bog oak. His pieces are truly amazing. Ann and I enjoyed a seaweed bath and some great laughs at Marii Kilbane’s bath house. Most of all, we enjoyed each other’s company.