There is a quality of grace and elegance about drooping trees that makes them very attractive. A drooping tree has horizontal branches from which slender twigs hang down in a fringe, while weeping trees have larger branches that also hang down below horizontal. Weeping trees are generally artificial forms, mutations, that need to be grafted or trained upward initially as a young plant. By contrast, drooping trees are usually natural.

The Nootka cypress, Chamaecypris nootkatensis, looks like the related ordinary Lawson cypress, but it has small, drooping branches. It is upright in shape, broadly pillar-like, and the main branches arch out from the trunk. The small branches and twigs hang straight down. This growth habit is considered a defence against snow damage to the branches. It grows along the northwest coast of America, north into Alaska, and in this area the ability to shed heavy falls of snow is a distinct advantage. There is an even more drooping form called Pendula, which is the one most commonly seen here, with branchlets that droop straight down. A most elegant tree, especially when the new foliage freshens it in springtime.

The Kashmir cypress, Cupressus cashmeriana, is a remarkably beautiful tree. Related to the Nootka cypress, it comes from Kashmir in India and it is not hardy, unlike its tough Nootka cousin. The Kashmir cypress has folds of fine, flat foliage that cascades from the branches on an upright, columnar tree. It broadens with age and is at its best in its early decades. However, it is only found in areas with mild weather.

The Brewer spruce, Picea breweriana, from the west coast of North America is another fine drooping tree. It makes an upright, smallish tree of about 10m, with branches set at almost right angles from the trunk. It displays a fringe of dangling branches, with twigs with fine needles along each branch.

The effect is very graceful, especially when grown with trees of rounded shape in the background.

Another drooping spruce, Picea smithiana, which comes from China, has a similar habit, but its twigs and needles are shorter. The Serbian spruce, Picea omorika, also droops in a decorative fashion, especially as it gets older. It makes a narrow, upright tree, with twigs fringed along the undersides of branches.

Silver birch is a naturally drooping tree. While there are weeping forms, the wild silver birch droops a curtain of twigs when it gets older. When the tree is about five or six metres tall, the purplish twigs along its outside branches droop more and more. The veil of slender twigs may droop for a metre or more.

The weeping willow, Salix babylonica, is a beautiful tree and largely free from willow canker, which spoils the more modern and commonly available Salix chrysocoma.

The weeping willow also strikes upward as a young tree and the finer twigs at the tips of the branches tend to droop. It can make a fair-sized tree, up to 10m and more across, and it looks great near water. There are other forms of willow that are grafted.

Beech has a nice tendency to droop at the edge of the branches on some plants and there are weeping forms, but these are not natural, being selected varieties that have to be grafted.

When choosing a drooping tree, try to pick a spot where it will be seen to best advantage. The drooping effect looks best in winter, great against the sky or a backdrop of other trees.

The evergreen cypress and spruce look best against leafless trees and the deciduous willow and birch against some evergreen foliage.

Cover vegetable ground

If possible, covering vegetable ground is an excellent way to control weeds and it leaves the soil in good condition for digging or further cultivation. Any sort of material that excludes light can be used, such as an old carpet, black polythene or off-cuts of black pond-liner.

Even though the two latter covers prevent direct access of rainfall, the moisture in the soil moves sideways and dry conditions are not produced. Cardboard layers can be used, but they break down quickly and only offer a temporary solution.

Carpet is very good. It allows rainwater through and its weight smothers weeds quickly. Black plastic used on silage can be reused, but it needs to be well anchored down with large stones or odd lengths of timber. Covering the soil favours the activities of earthworms, which eat the decaying vegetation.

Trees, shrubs and roses

In dry settled weather, all kinds of pot-grown trees and shrubs can be planted. Planting of bare-root deciduous trees, hedging and shrubs can go ahead. There has been a lot of rain all year and do not plant into heavy, wet ground. Check that young trees are properly staked.

Flowers

Bedding plants for spring colour should have been planted by now, but they can still be planted up in pots or in beds in the open ground. Give them a few days outdoors to harden up, as they are probably not long out of a polythene tunnel. Lift dahlias and begonias in inland areas, or cover with 10cm of soil.

Lawn

Lawn mosskillers, such as sulphate of iron can still be applied. Moss will grow vigorously in the coming damp months. An occasional mowing during winter is a good idea if the soil is not squelching wet. If there are land drainage pipes under the lawn, check the drainage outlet to see if they are working.

Fruit, veg and herbs

Tree, bush and cane fruits can be pruned during this time, if this has not been done already, but not plums or cherries which are pruned in summer. Dig over vegetable ground in dry weather. Plant new fruit trees and bushes. Control weeds around established fruit trees and bushes.

Greenhouse & house plants

Give very little water to reduce the risk of grey mould disease. A small, electric frost-protection heater will save tender plants, such as geraniums or fuchsias, in a greenhouse or unheated conservatory. Take the opportunity to clean the glass, improving light transmission.