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The penstemon varieties grown in gardens are mostly bushy plants that send the flowering shoots up to about waist level. The size makes them suitable for use in most gardens. They are related to foxgloves, being in the same family, and generally begin to flower as the foxgloves go over. However, while foxgloves are a plant for sunshine or light shade, penstemon is a plant for full sunshine. Though similar to the foxglove, the trumpet-shaped flowers are not as long as those of the foxglove and they flare more at the mouth. The penstemon flowers are also carried on a spire-shaped flower stem but these are not as rigid or as tall as the foxglove. Penstemon has a wide range of colours from white and palest pink, bright scarlet-red and pale blue-purple to deep blackberry colours, a colour palette that is much more varied than foxglove and has been achieved by crossing species and selecting the best.
In the past, it was not unusual for nurserymen to change the names of German or French varieties
The one that caught the eye initially for many people is the variety ‘Garnet’, now renamed ‘Andenken an Friedrich Hahn’. The name ‘Garnet’' did perfectly well for years and it was a very descriptive name because of the deep wine-red colour of the flowers, but ‘Andenken an Friedrich Hahn’ is the original name and will remain so unless it is changed back. In the past, it was not unusual for nurserymen to change the names of German or French varieties. But the original name is considered the correct one, so be prepared to buy this plant under either name. Other good popular varieties include: ‘Evelyn’, a dainty variety with narrower flowers of light pink ‘Mother of Pearl’, a lovely variety of pale blue-purple with touches of pink and white, ‘King George’ is a strong hot red, ‘Alice Hindley’, a nice blue purple, and 'Blackbird', a variety of dark wine-red colouration. Choose plants to go with each of these because penstemon looks great as part of a grouping with other plants that suit the colour. For instance, the dark brooding tones 'Blackbird' look superb with blue African lily, foamy pink francoa and white phlox.
The plants sustain some frost damage in most winters and this damaged growth should be cut back
Penstemons are easy to grow in ordinary soil, well-drained, in a sunny position. They make big bushy plants after a year or two and may need cutting back, which should be done in late spring when the worst frosts are over. The plants sustain some frost damage in most winters and this damaged growth should be cut back. Usually at that stage there will be a beginning of new growth from the base of the plant, its woody crown, and this growth will make fine flowering spikes later. They are not very hardy but will survive for many years outdoors in mild areas, only being killed by very severe, prolonged frost.
It is always a good policy to take a few cuttings in mid-summer each year as insurance against losing the parent plant. They root easily and grow very fast to replace the lost plants. It is no harm in any case, to replace existing plants because they get worn out.
The varieties with broader leaves and flowers are those which must be protected or have cuttings taken
The hardiest kinds are the ones with narrow leaves and narrow tubular flowers. This would appear to be an adaptation to resist winter cold damage. The varieties with broader leaves and flowers are those which must be protected or have cuttings taken. Another way to grow penstemons is to use the seed-raised varieties. This is a very cheap way to have masses of flowering plants for summer. But these seed-raised kinds are not as hardy as the named sub-shrubby varieties.
After a very slow start because of the cold and the wet, the weather changed dramatically in April and May, and a lot of new vegetable growers sowed seeds. After a threatened drought, the weather fell into a pattern of sunshine and showers and hardly a day passed without a spell of each. This has proven very good for vegetables which have responded dramatically despite the slow start. All sorts of vegetables have performed very well, notably the bellwether crop for a good summer, namely sweetcorn. After a slow start, it took off and looks extremely well. It is not as good for fruit, which in some cases, such as plums, gooseberries and currants, which were affected by cold weather at flowering time in spring. Besides, plum trees in many instances had carried a heavy crop last year and are in recovery. There is still time to sow some late vegetables, such as spinach, rocket and winter lettuce, particularly in a tunnel or undercover of some sort.
Flowers
It is vital to continue to feed baskets and other containers on a regular basis and watering too, even though the task might be getting a bit tiresome at this stage there is still at least two months of flower on some on these containers. Stay on top of weeding in flower beds and borders. Prevent weeds going to seed now.
Fruit, vegetables and herbs
Raspberry canes that have finished fruiting could be pruned out and the new canes tied into position. If there are too many canes, reduce the number to about ten or fifteen per metre of row. Summer pruning of over-vigorous apples and pears could be carried out now to reduce vigour and increase cropping. Sow spring cabbage seed.
Lawn
No fertiliser is given to a wild flower lawn because it would encourage the grass and act to the disadvantage of the broad-leaved plants which are the providers of the most colourful and decorative wildflowers. Naturally, in a wildflower meadow, lawn weed killer is never applied as it targets the broadleaved flowers in the turf.
Trees, shrubs and roses
Take out spent flower shoots of roses about half-way down to encourage late flowers. If new areas are to be planted with trees this autumn, especially small plants for woodland or shelter planting, clear existing vegetation well before planting. Check young trees for signs of drought, the next two month are critical.
Greenhouse and house plants
Take cuttings of geraniums and fuchsias soon to overwinter for next year. Continue watering and feeding greenhouse plants, especially those in flower or likely to flower in autumn or winter, such as Christmas cactus and indoor azalea. Continue to train and side-shoot tomatoes and cucumbers. Take the top shoots off tomato plants.
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