I arrived early at the ASA conference on Thursday last, both to make sure I could keep an eye on who was (and wasn’t) there and to take advantage of the always excellent Killashee Hotel morning coffee and pastries.

But my jaw nearly hit the floor when, after getting my cup and plate filled, I saw no fewer than four jugs lined up on the table each containing a different variety of fake milk. ‘Soy milk’, ‘almond milk’, ‘coconut milk’ and ‘oat milk’ the labels declared, only half-truthfully.

This is not the audience for that kind of frippery, I thought to myself.

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And sure enough, when I was going back for a second cup during a break in proceedings later in the day, the four jugs were still sitting there, filled to the top, untouched by the hundreds of discerning attendees at this fantastic event.