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The peppertree is a superb shrub that has yellow-green and pink-red foliage that looks like it has coloured for autumn but it is evergreen and the colourful foliage persists during the winter months and even into summer. In its native New Zealand, it has the Maori name of horopito or red horopito and it has been used for generations as a remedy for various ailments, especially yeast infections.
The New Zealand peppertree is known as Pseudowintera colorata. The first part of the name means ‘false winter’ which was the name change given when it was decided that this and the next kind were not closely related enough to carry the same botanical name. It appears to have very little green chlorophyll for good growth but the chlorophyll is masked by the yellow pigments. The basic colour is a pale green which is the colour of the leaves at the shady centre of the bush away from direct sunlight.
As the foliage gets more sunlight, the leaves turn yellow-green and the outermost ones turn pink or red, and grey–purple underneath. The combination of colours is remarkable at any time of year, and unlike its large relative, this is a perfect shrub for gardens of any size.
The mountain pepper, or pepper tree, Drimys lanceolata, is a related plant from southern Australia and Tasmania. This bush or small tree is relatively little, reaching about three metres tall and wide, with smaller, more narrow, evergreen leaves. It is very aromatic when the leaves are crushed. The young stems have creamy yellow flowers in clusters but they are not as large or impressive as the large flowers of the winter’s bark.
Winter’s bark got this name from Captain John Winter, a 16th century sea-captain who gave winter’s bark tea to his crew to prevent scurvy which is caused by a lack of vitamin C. The winter’s bark, from South America, is a tall tree capable of making well over 10m in height. It is usually only seen in collections in large gardens open to the public but it is just too big for most domestic gardens, although many country gardens would easily accommodate it.
The botanical name is Drimys winteri and it makes a tall broad pillar of leathery evergreen leaves, the leaves being shaped like long narrow laurel leaves. In spring it produces masses of white flowers in clusters and these are sweetly fragrant. It is not completely hardy so it is normally seen in milder parts of the country. It often grows like a big bush with five or 10 stems sprouting from ground level, although it is sometimes seen as a single-stem tree.
Around the country, in recent years, many fine old specimens have been affected by phythophthora rot disease, causing leaf loss and dieback of leafy stems, so much so that many trees were left looking ugly and have been cut down.
Not every specimen has been affected, and perhaps the disease will never reach them. There is risk in growing this fine tree, but it is a risk worth taking. Also, it was damaged in some parts during the hard frost of 2010 but recovered in most cases by sprouting new shoots from the tough older wood that was protected by the thick bark.
Although all of the kinds of peppertrees can be damaged by a very bad frost, the toughest is the smallest; the New Zealand pseudowintera. These peppertrees prefer no lime in the soil but are not as fussy as true lime-haters, such as rhododendrons. Pseudowintera is the smallest of the group and can be grown in a large pot to be brought under cover in winter or grown as a conservatory plant which might be a good idea in colder parts of the country. Whatever the use to which it is put, this is an excellent shrub, well worth looking out for. The larger relatives are not as versatile, or as easily got to buy.
Replace summer bedding
Summer-bedding flowers have deteriorated after some light frosts. A hard frost would of course simply wither everything overnight and that won’t be far off now. As soon as summer plants have got that tired look, they are past their best and can be taken out. If they were in containers, it might be the case that some of the other plants, such as heuchera or cordyline, being hardy, can be left in place and have spring bedding and bulbs planted in.
As soon as summer plants have got that tired look, they are past their best and can be taken out.
In beds or borders, take out all plants, spread some compost and a shake of fertiliser and dig over the vacated ground. When settled a week or so, spring bedding and spring bulbs can be put in. Summer-bedding plants can give a splash of colour at the front of borders and spring bedding can be even more effective because the garden has less flower colour in early spring.
Fruit, vegetables and herbs
Plant spring cabbage plants without delay. Remove old vegetables as soon as they as are finished and do not allow weeds to build up. Lift and store potatoes and carrots now for winter use. Parsnips generally keep better when left in the ground. Prune raspberries, blackcurrants and gooseberries.
Trees, shrubs and roses
Plant evergreens of all kinds, either from pots or as root-balled plants. All kinds of pot-grown trees and shrubs can be planted too. Check that young trees are securely staked if they need it – wind-rocking can seriously damage and even kill young trees that are not yet wind-firm.
Flowers
Plant all kinds of spring bulbs as soon as possible. Hanging baskets and other containers are coming to the end of their time. If they have already gone over, replace the summer plants with some plants for winter and spring, including bulbs. Begin dividing perennial flowers, or planting new plants.
Lawns
Use mosskiller now if necessary, particularly in shaded areas. Continue mowing and use an autumn lawn fertiliser, unless growth has stopped or the ground is too wet. There is still time to sow a new lawn, or to over-sow damaged patches, but conditions will not be as good as the weather gets cooler.
Greenhouse and house plants
Pick tomatoes as they ripen, or if the plants have lost leaves, pick the last few green to ripen off the vine. Keep the greenhouse tidy and ventilated. Do not over-water, or splash water about, to reduce the risk of grey mould disease. Rub off summer shading, if not already done.
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