Louise and Rosemary Marshall’s farm in Burt at the foot of the Inishowen Peninsula overlooks O’Doherty Castle and an old whiskey distillery, the hills of Donegal rolling in around them.

Both their father and grandfather kept sheep and sucklers on the same ground, explains Louise.

“Daddy took Parkinson’s. He passed away in 1992. Mammy was from Derry and she didn’t know much about farming, but she was introduced to it.”

The tradition of farming remains strong in the family to this day. The sisters stayed primarily in sheep until a chance encounter in 2009 led them down a different path to what they had previously known.

A bull from the Amara Dexter herd grazing at Burt, Co Donegal. \ Clive Wasson

“We had too many sheep. It became too much for us and we were just wondering what to do,” says Louise.

“I had a cousin up the Lurgan direction where there’s a fabulous council-owned rare breed working farm we visited. That’s where I saw my first little Dexter, up there.”

“I ran home and we looked them up on the computer.

“We found the Northern Ireland Dexter Society and got in touch. The thing that enthrals me about Dexters is that they don’t see how small they are. Nothing phases them really and they have a lovely nature at the same time.”

The sisters first bought six Dexter cattle at a rare breed sale in Gosford, Co Armagh, officially kicking off their Armara Dexter herd.

Native breed

Small in stature, Dexter cows average about 300kg and one metre in height. They are a native Irish breed. It is thought the Dexter was first bred in Co Tipperary using hardy mountain cattle.

Due to their size, Dexters were historically known as “the poor man’s cow”, owing to the fact that they could be easily kept on a small plot of land. Dexter cattle are noted for being easy-calvers and good mothers.

The Amara Dexter herd grazing at Burt, Co Donegal. \ Clive Wasson

First introduced to Britain in the 1800s, the breed spread to many different countries around the world. However, to a large extent, they died off in Ireland. Part of this is attributed to the famine, when small holding owners – many of whom would have kept Dexters – were decimated.

Something of a Renaissance of the breed has taken place in Ireland over the past 30 years, with breed societies being established north and south.

Taste

Dexters can be kept for both dairy and beef. They produce creamy Jersey-like milk, but it is the well-marbled, nutty flavoured beef that is the end product the Marshall sisters desire. They sell cuts of beef privately from their home and also to An Grianan Hotel.

“Dexter beef is much sought after. It is totally grass-fed you see. It is 30 months from calf to beef. The fat is marbled all the way through. So then the meat really just melts in your mouth. It is really delicate.

The Amara Dexter herd grazing at Burt, Co Donegal. \ Clive Wasson

“All the main chefs go mad for the marbling. Donal Skehan is among Dexter beef’s promoters. It has good fats, rich in omega 3, 6 and 9.”

Alongside the herd, Louise and Rosemary run Amaris Farmhouse B&B, as well as an Airbnb.

All of their visitors, many of whom are travelling the Wild Atlantic Way, enjoy being exposed to an authentic farm experience.

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