After the first part of our holiday exploring the “Surf Coast” of Sligo and Mayo, we made our way in our rented Volkswagen (VW) campervan for Kerry, which is referred to as the “Southern Peninsulas” on the Wild Atlantic Way route.
We started our trip in Tralee, treating ourselves to a Quinlan’s Fish and Chips after the long drive down. We had pan fried John Dory, fish cakes, onion rings and chips. Well worth the trip! They have several shops throughout the county. Click here for more.
Stuffed to the gills, we drove on through Castlegregory, Brandon and the Conor Pass. Our camper was a very small van, but most large campers would not be able to drive this road and should take heed of the signs to use an alternative route.
The views over Mount Brandon and the Corrie lakes down below are spectacular and it is definitely a scenic route worth exploring.
Touring Ireland, it's not always the destination that matters, but the journey and the company. \ Philip Doyle
We spent the day perusing the small shops and markets in Dingle. The tourist office in Dingle is very good and gave us a few extra helpful maps for our journey.
The nightlife in Dingle is renowned, but we decided in the end to drive to Ventry beach and park up there for the night.
Paudie O’Shea’s pub was hopping. There were instruments being passed around and everyone was given a chance to sing; and even if you refused to sing, they gave you the spoons to join in.
The following day, we drove around the Dunquin Loop to see the Blasket Islands. We then travelled on towards Inch beach through Annascaul, where we bought some of the famous local black pudding to cook up for our breakfast the following morning, taking a break from our regular porridge!
Climbing Ireland's highest mountain
The next stop was Carrauntoolhil via Castlemaine and Killorglin. Some people had told us you need a guide going up Carrauntoohil, others say you don’t.
The path is well worn and on a dry day like it was for us, there are always a good few climbers around, but it is not an easy climb in any way and care is advised. You can find out more here.
We parked in Cronin's yard and headed towards the Devil’s Ladder. You do need to use your hands to pull yourself up this steep part, so a certain amount of upper body strength and fitness is required.
Eadaoin Moore and Stephen Morris explored the "Surf Coast" of Sligo and Mayo and the "Southern Peninsulas" route in Co Kerry alog the Wild Atlantic Way \ Philip Doyle
We had a packed lunch to have at the top, taking shelter from the wind in a small open-top beehive hut. We walked down the “zig-zag” route, which is a much softer climb, pausing at the coffee shop at the foot of the mountain for a well-earned cup of tea.
We then drove on to Rossbeigh and camped there for the night. There is public tennis court in the small town, which we made use of before driving on to Cahersiveen and from there, to Valentia Island, paying €5 for the five-minute ferry journey across the water to Knightstown.
Usually with crab claws you are lucky if there are eight pieces on your plate. I’m not exaggerating when I say there were nearly 20 huge juicy ones, swimming in gorgeous garlic butter
We parked in the car park in front of the marina, where we swam and soaked up the sun before dining at The Royal Hotel Valentia across the road. We ordered the crab claws to share with chips. Usually with crab claws you are lucky if there are eight pieces on your plate. I’m not exaggerating when I say there were nearly 20 huge juicy ones, swimming in gorgeous garlic butter. They were just divine!
The following day, we cycled out to a nearby lighthouse at Cromwell Point before driving on to Bray Head for the cliff walk. There is paid parking in the car park for €2 and this is agri tourism at its best. People used to park on the farmers’ land for free, but a couple of years ago, a few local farmers got together to create a proper parking area. It’s worth the very small fee as the views are spectacular from this view point.
Eadaoin Moore and Stephen Morris also enjoyed surfing along Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way. \ Philip Doyle
Later on that day, we drove over the land bridge to Portmagee, onto Balinskelligs and Waterville. Along the route we stumbled upon the Kerry Cliffs. This is also a view point you have to pay to see at €4 per person.
We followed the road out to Derrynane beach and parked up there. That drive was phenomenal, with the Skelligs in full view from the main land. We even heard a funny story about an American tourist wondering “when they were going to take the set down from Star Wars?!”.
We woke up early the following day to cycle part of the Ring of Kerry from Derrynane to Sneem and back again. It was a tough cycle, but we thoroughly enjoyed it. In hindsight, though, we should have rented better bikes locally rather than using our three-gear fold-up ones for such a long spin.
You could spend a week alone in most of the spots we visited on our trip
For one of our final nights, we decided to treat ourselves to a night in Parknasilla Resort and Spa. They have a new outdoor sea water heated pool, which really adds to the spa experience. The hotel is also connected to wooded walks by a beautiful bridge, dubbed the ‘Love Bridge’. Rates from €209 including B&B, visit www.parknasillaresort.com
But after a final night in Kenmare and a stop in Torc Waterfall near Killarney, it was time to leave the Wild Atlantic Way and make the drive back home. There is so much of the Wild Atlantic Way left to explore. Our next trip will hopefully be to parts of Connemara and to all three of the Arán Islands.
When you get the weather, Ireland is the best place in the world to holiday. \ Philip Doyle
You could spend a week alone in most of the spots we visited on our trip.
Travelling in a campervan suits not only the adventurous type, but people who don’t like committing to a rigid schedule on holidays. It gives you complete freedom. Even if you had planned to visit the Giants Causeway from Dublin and only made it as far as Carlingford for the week, it makes no difference either way. As they say, it’s the journey; not the destination.
Having spent previous holidays overseas, this summer Eadaoin Moore and her boyfriend Stephen Morris decided to stay closer to home and explore parts of Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way in an old style VW campervan.
After shopping around, they found a two-berth VW converted camper for €80/day all in, which they rented for two and a half weeks from www.valuevanrental.ie
They also decided to take the “wild camping” approach. Wild camping just means parking your van in an area that isn’t specially designed for camping.
From cycling and swimming to kite surfing, Eadaoin Moore and Stephen Morris found so much to do along the Wild Atlantic Way. \ Philip Doyle
In Ireland it is legal to park on beach car parks, streets etc as long as you “leave no trace” once you are leaving and don’t cause a disturbance to anyone.
With regards to facilities, nearly all beaches now have public toilet facilities. They managed to shower in family and friends’ houses along the way, or by paying a small fee to use local campsite facilities eg €1 in a campsite on Valentia Island in Co Kerry.
Facilities on board the camper van included two gas hobs, a gas oven and a fridge, while the van also came equipped with a pot, lighter, washing up liquid, toilet roll, knives and forks and plates.
After the first part of our holiday exploring the “Surf Coast” of Sligo and Mayo, we made our way in our rented Volkswagen (VW) campervan for Kerry, which is referred to as the “Southern Peninsulas” on the Wild Atlantic Way route.
We started our trip in Tralee, treating ourselves to a Quinlan’s Fish and Chips after the long drive down. We had pan fried John Dory, fish cakes, onion rings and chips. Well worth the trip! They have several shops throughout the county. Click here for more.
Stuffed to the gills, we drove on through Castlegregory, Brandon and the Conor Pass. Our camper was a very small van, but most large campers would not be able to drive this road and should take heed of the signs to use an alternative route.
The views over Mount Brandon and the Corrie lakes down below are spectacular and it is definitely a scenic route worth exploring.
Touring Ireland, it's not always the destination that matters, but the journey and the company. \ Philip Doyle
We spent the day perusing the small shops and markets in Dingle. The tourist office in Dingle is very good and gave us a few extra helpful maps for our journey.
The nightlife in Dingle is renowned, but we decided in the end to drive to Ventry beach and park up there for the night.
Paudie O’Shea’s pub was hopping. There were instruments being passed around and everyone was given a chance to sing; and even if you refused to sing, they gave you the spoons to join in.
The following day, we drove around the Dunquin Loop to see the Blasket Islands. We then travelled on towards Inch beach through Annascaul, where we bought some of the famous local black pudding to cook up for our breakfast the following morning, taking a break from our regular porridge!
Climbing Ireland's highest mountain
The next stop was Carrauntoolhil via Castlemaine and Killorglin. Some people had told us you need a guide going up Carrauntoohil, others say you don’t.
The path is well worn and on a dry day like it was for us, there are always a good few climbers around, but it is not an easy climb in any way and care is advised. You can find out more here.
We parked in Cronin's yard and headed towards the Devil’s Ladder. You do need to use your hands to pull yourself up this steep part, so a certain amount of upper body strength and fitness is required.
Eadaoin Moore and Stephen Morris explored the "Surf Coast" of Sligo and Mayo and the "Southern Peninsulas" route in Co Kerry alog the Wild Atlantic Way \ Philip Doyle
We had a packed lunch to have at the top, taking shelter from the wind in a small open-top beehive hut. We walked down the “zig-zag” route, which is a much softer climb, pausing at the coffee shop at the foot of the mountain for a well-earned cup of tea.
We then drove on to Rossbeigh and camped there for the night. There is public tennis court in the small town, which we made use of before driving on to Cahersiveen and from there, to Valentia Island, paying €5 for the five-minute ferry journey across the water to Knightstown.
Usually with crab claws you are lucky if there are eight pieces on your plate. I’m not exaggerating when I say there were nearly 20 huge juicy ones, swimming in gorgeous garlic butter
We parked in the car park in front of the marina, where we swam and soaked up the sun before dining at The Royal Hotel Valentia across the road. We ordered the crab claws to share with chips. Usually with crab claws you are lucky if there are eight pieces on your plate. I’m not exaggerating when I say there were nearly 20 huge juicy ones, swimming in gorgeous garlic butter. They were just divine!
The following day, we cycled out to a nearby lighthouse at Cromwell Point before driving on to Bray Head for the cliff walk. There is paid parking in the car park for €2 and this is agri tourism at its best. People used to park on the farmers’ land for free, but a couple of years ago, a few local farmers got together to create a proper parking area. It’s worth the very small fee as the views are spectacular from this view point.
Eadaoin Moore and Stephen Morris also enjoyed surfing along Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way. \ Philip Doyle
Later on that day, we drove over the land bridge to Portmagee, onto Balinskelligs and Waterville. Along the route we stumbled upon the Kerry Cliffs. This is also a view point you have to pay to see at €4 per person.
We followed the road out to Derrynane beach and parked up there. That drive was phenomenal, with the Skelligs in full view from the main land. We even heard a funny story about an American tourist wondering “when they were going to take the set down from Star Wars?!”.
We woke up early the following day to cycle part of the Ring of Kerry from Derrynane to Sneem and back again. It was a tough cycle, but we thoroughly enjoyed it. In hindsight, though, we should have rented better bikes locally rather than using our three-gear fold-up ones for such a long spin.
You could spend a week alone in most of the spots we visited on our trip
For one of our final nights, we decided to treat ourselves to a night in Parknasilla Resort and Spa. They have a new outdoor sea water heated pool, which really adds to the spa experience. The hotel is also connected to wooded walks by a beautiful bridge, dubbed the ‘Love Bridge’. Rates from €209 including B&B, visit www.parknasillaresort.com
But after a final night in Kenmare and a stop in Torc Waterfall near Killarney, it was time to leave the Wild Atlantic Way and make the drive back home. There is so much of the Wild Atlantic Way left to explore. Our next trip will hopefully be to parts of Connemara and to all three of the Arán Islands.
When you get the weather, Ireland is the best place in the world to holiday. \ Philip Doyle
You could spend a week alone in most of the spots we visited on our trip.
Travelling in a campervan suits not only the adventurous type, but people who don’t like committing to a rigid schedule on holidays. It gives you complete freedom. Even if you had planned to visit the Giants Causeway from Dublin and only made it as far as Carlingford for the week, it makes no difference either way. As they say, it’s the journey; not the destination.
Having spent previous holidays overseas, this summer Eadaoin Moore and her boyfriend Stephen Morris decided to stay closer to home and explore parts of Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way in an old style VW campervan.
After shopping around, they found a two-berth VW converted camper for €80/day all in, which they rented for two and a half weeks from www.valuevanrental.ie
They also decided to take the “wild camping” approach. Wild camping just means parking your van in an area that isn’t specially designed for camping.
From cycling and swimming to kite surfing, Eadaoin Moore and Stephen Morris found so much to do along the Wild Atlantic Way. \ Philip Doyle
In Ireland it is legal to park on beach car parks, streets etc as long as you “leave no trace” once you are leaving and don’t cause a disturbance to anyone.
With regards to facilities, nearly all beaches now have public toilet facilities. They managed to shower in family and friends’ houses along the way, or by paying a small fee to use local campsite facilities eg €1 in a campsite on Valentia Island in Co Kerry.
Facilities on board the camper van included two gas hobs, a gas oven and a fridge, while the van also came equipped with a pot, lighter, washing up liquid, toilet roll, knives and forks and plates.
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