When many Irish people think of “holidaying”, they automatically think of going abroad. I have travelled parts of the US, Asia, Australia and Europe, but while I was experiencing 30°C heat in the rainy season in the Philippines last summer, I kept seeing pictures of Ireland in blistering sunshine. This was when it first entered my head to holiday in Ireland the following year in an old-style Volkswagen (VW) camper van.
My boyfriend Stephen and I started to look up websites and scout the possibilities of renting such a camper.
I quickly found out that renting campers can be quite expensive if you don’t shop around. We were lucky to find a two-berth VW converted camper for €80 a day all in, which we rented for two and a half weeks from valuevanrental.ie
Ireland – when we get the weather – is certainly the best place to holiday in the world. We decided we would take the “wild camping” approach.
Wild camping just means parking your van in an area that isn’t specially designed for camping.
In Ireland it is legal to park on beach car parks, streets etc as long as you “leave no trace” once you are leaving and don’t cause a disturbance to anyone.
With regards to facilities, nearly all beaches now have public toilet facilities.
We managed to shower in family and friends’ houses along the way and in most areas, if you ask to use the shower facilities in a campsite, even if you are not staying, they have no problem as long as you pay a small fee eg we paid €1 in a campsite on Valentia Island in Co Kerry.
We had fabulous cooking facilities in the camper, with two gas hobs and a gas oven. The fridge was excellent too. The van also came equipped with a pot, lighter, washin-up liquid, toilet roll, knives and forks and plates. The great thing about renting a small camper van is not having a plan. If you like a place or an idea, you can stay for a week if you want.
The Wild Atlantic Way
The Wild Atlantic Way (WAW) is a phenomenal route.
The maps, which are available for free in any tourist office, match the signs perfectly and make driving the coastal route very easy. But if you do get lost… isn’t that all part of the fun?
The WAW is in fact the longest defined coastal touring route in the world. It is separated into six regions and we explored some of two parts of it on this trip – “The Surf Coast” and “The Southern Peninsulas”.
There are “discovery points” marked out on the map, which highlight the main viewpoints on the trail.
We found that on most beaches and viewpoints on the WAW, there were a few campers to share your journey with. Every morning we made our porridge in the camper with Irish strawberries or raspberries and swam on a new beach everyday… not a bad way of life!
Visit www.wildatlanticway.com
Sligo start
We started our adventure in Mullaghmore, Co Sligo. This is a lovely port seaside town. The beach is long and great for walking and swimming. From there, we went up Benbulben on the Luke’s Bridge side. This climb is not signposted, but on the day we walked it, we met other people on their way down who were more than happy to point us in the right direction. Just as we got to the top, however, the mist came down, which can be quite disorientating – just something to be aware of.
As we were about to finish the climb, we got chatting to a friendly farmer loading up his turf who offered us a few sods in a bag for a small camping bonfire later on. We parked up that evening on Streedagh strand, from where it is a short cycle into Grange town if you need supplies. We went for a dip in the sea and afterwards, used fire lighters to create a bonfire and cooked up burgers for our dinner on the camper van’s small barbecue. With little or no light pollution in the area, the stars were fantasticly bright that night.
Surfing and seaweed baths
We followed the WAW to Rosses Point Beach and then onto Strandhill. The car park there on the outside of the town is perfect for small campers to wild camp. The waves were strong in Strandhill, but we braved the water in our wetsuits and went for a surf. However, the tide had come in a little more than expected and took my sandals. Note to self: pack more than one set of shoes.
From surfing to seaweed baths, Eadaoin Moore and Stephen Morris found there was so much to do along the Wild Atlantic Way. \ Philip Doyle
We drove to Aughris Head and then onto Easky, where we explored the natural rock pools, swam and went for a cycle. There is so much to do in this area along the WAW. We then drove to Enniscrone and had a relaxing time in the old fashioned seaweed baths. You can’t book in a time, but pop your name on the list and go to the hotel next door or for a walk while you wait to be called for a slot. You can stay as long as you wish, which adds to the relaxing nature of it. A seaweed bath here costs €45 for a twin room, or €25 for a single visit.
Visit www.kilcullenseaweedbaths.net
Hidden gem
We then decided to make a little more ground for the evening towards Benwee Head in Co Mayo for sunset. We were the only camper there that night and the next morning, went straight to Portacloy, where we had our breakfast. There was no one on the beach and it is definitely a hidden gem.
Eadaoin Moore and Stephen Morris started their adventure exploring the "Surf Coast" in Co Sligo and Co Mayo. \ Philip Doyle
That morning we took the coast route going through Rossport to Belmullet and played golf in the Carne Golf Links. They were very accommodating and allowed us rent the clubs and play in non-golf shoes. Price depends on whether or not you are a GUI member. Non-members were €35 per person for nine holes, including club rental with balls and tees.
Visit www.carnegolflinks.com
A different tour
We drove to the several viewpoints on the WAW map, before ending up at the tip of the Black Sod. Despite it being very far from any major towns it was a very busy spot on this particular day. We got chatting to a local fisherman, Jed, who does tours out to Inishkea Island during the summer months. We got the boat out to the island and spent a little while exploring the abandoned island, which was the perfect place for a late afternoon dip.
For further information, contact Geraghty Charters on 097-85741.
We then drove down to Doohoma Head and set up camp here for the night. This beach was most certainly one of our favourites and the unspoilt landscape in the pink sunset was incredible.
Cycling and kite surfing
The following day, we drove all the way to Keem beach on Achill Island, which was just voted in the top 10 beaches in the world. It lived up to all expectations. On a fine day, it is imperative that you arrive here early to get a parking spot. Also bring a picnic, as the nearest shop is a good drive away.
The following day we had planned to go kite surfing, but due to the lack of wind we cycled the greenway instead. We parked the camper on Keel beach that morning. The cycle can be broken up into parts, is well signposted and very safe. We cycled out to Mulranny, through Dugort and then onto Newport. There are a few hills in that area, but nothing a three-gear fold-up bike can’t handle! We had a well-deserved lunch and a pint of cider in the Gráinne Uaile before taking it easy on the cycle back.
Visit www.greenway.ie
Floating away
The following day, the wind had picked up so we were able to kite surf. We did this through a company called ‘Pure Magic’.
It feels super safe as you are only knee deep in water. We did some body drags and we both were lifted completely out of the water on several occasions, which felt like you were flying! A three-hour session costs €160 per person.
Visit www.puremagic.ie
A touch of the French
We drove into Westport, where we decided to do a barbecue and head out for a few drinks that night, with stops including Matt Molloy’s and Moran’s, which seemed to be a pub/ shop/hardware store.
Sitting outside in any pub in the Octagon was also a great way to start the evening. It felt like you were in any of the seaside towns in the French Riviera.
The next morning the sun was still shining, so we headed for Croagh Patrick bright and early. Half way up, looking down over a beautiful clear Clew Bay, the heavens opened, but the rain didn’t last for long and we still made it to the top.
Every town, village and area we went to gave us a warm welcome and really made me realise why so many foreign tourists call Irish people the friendliest people in the world! The majority of ‘The Surf Coast’ of Sligo and Mayo is relatively unexplored.
Eadaoin and Stephen's suggestions
Lunchtime picks
Three tasty lunch spots we came across on our trip included:
1
Shells, Strandhill, Co Sligo.
2
Pudding Row, Easky, Co Sligo.
3
Cafe Rua, Castlebar, Co Mayo.
Get on
your bike
Bikes are essential. They are especially handy for going to the shop and not having to pack up to use the camper.
The big
winner
The top 99 ice cream we tasted was at Healy’s Binghamstown in Belmullet, Co Mayo. But a close second
was Paddy’s Place,
Mullaghmore,
Co Sligo.
Read more
Reviving a rural gem in Rathanna
Easy for all in east Cork
When many Irish people think of “holidaying”, they automatically think of going abroad. I have travelled parts of the US, Asia, Australia and Europe, but while I was experiencing 30°C heat in the rainy season in the Philippines last summer, I kept seeing pictures of Ireland in blistering sunshine. This was when it first entered my head to holiday in Ireland the following year in an old-style Volkswagen (VW) camper van.
My boyfriend Stephen and I started to look up websites and scout the possibilities of renting such a camper.
I quickly found out that renting campers can be quite expensive if you don’t shop around. We were lucky to find a two-berth VW converted camper for €80 a day all in, which we rented for two and a half weeks from valuevanrental.ie
Ireland – when we get the weather – is certainly the best place to holiday in the world. We decided we would take the “wild camping” approach.
Wild camping just means parking your van in an area that isn’t specially designed for camping.
In Ireland it is legal to park on beach car parks, streets etc as long as you “leave no trace” once you are leaving and don’t cause a disturbance to anyone.
With regards to facilities, nearly all beaches now have public toilet facilities.
We managed to shower in family and friends’ houses along the way and in most areas, if you ask to use the shower facilities in a campsite, even if you are not staying, they have no problem as long as you pay a small fee eg we paid €1 in a campsite on Valentia Island in Co Kerry.
We had fabulous cooking facilities in the camper, with two gas hobs and a gas oven. The fridge was excellent too. The van also came equipped with a pot, lighter, washin-up liquid, toilet roll, knives and forks and plates. The great thing about renting a small camper van is not having a plan. If you like a place or an idea, you can stay for a week if you want.
The Wild Atlantic Way
The Wild Atlantic Way (WAW) is a phenomenal route.
The maps, which are available for free in any tourist office, match the signs perfectly and make driving the coastal route very easy. But if you do get lost… isn’t that all part of the fun?
The WAW is in fact the longest defined coastal touring route in the world. It is separated into six regions and we explored some of two parts of it on this trip – “The Surf Coast” and “The Southern Peninsulas”.
There are “discovery points” marked out on the map, which highlight the main viewpoints on the trail.
We found that on most beaches and viewpoints on the WAW, there were a few campers to share your journey with. Every morning we made our porridge in the camper with Irish strawberries or raspberries and swam on a new beach everyday… not a bad way of life!
Visit www.wildatlanticway.com
Sligo start
We started our adventure in Mullaghmore, Co Sligo. This is a lovely port seaside town. The beach is long and great for walking and swimming. From there, we went up Benbulben on the Luke’s Bridge side. This climb is not signposted, but on the day we walked it, we met other people on their way down who were more than happy to point us in the right direction. Just as we got to the top, however, the mist came down, which can be quite disorientating – just something to be aware of.
As we were about to finish the climb, we got chatting to a friendly farmer loading up his turf who offered us a few sods in a bag for a small camping bonfire later on. We parked up that evening on Streedagh strand, from where it is a short cycle into Grange town if you need supplies. We went for a dip in the sea and afterwards, used fire lighters to create a bonfire and cooked up burgers for our dinner on the camper van’s small barbecue. With little or no light pollution in the area, the stars were fantasticly bright that night.
Surfing and seaweed baths
We followed the WAW to Rosses Point Beach and then onto Strandhill. The car park there on the outside of the town is perfect for small campers to wild camp. The waves were strong in Strandhill, but we braved the water in our wetsuits and went for a surf. However, the tide had come in a little more than expected and took my sandals. Note to self: pack more than one set of shoes.
From surfing to seaweed baths, Eadaoin Moore and Stephen Morris found there was so much to do along the Wild Atlantic Way. \ Philip Doyle
We drove to Aughris Head and then onto Easky, where we explored the natural rock pools, swam and went for a cycle. There is so much to do in this area along the WAW. We then drove to Enniscrone and had a relaxing time in the old fashioned seaweed baths. You can’t book in a time, but pop your name on the list and go to the hotel next door or for a walk while you wait to be called for a slot. You can stay as long as you wish, which adds to the relaxing nature of it. A seaweed bath here costs €45 for a twin room, or €25 for a single visit.
Visit www.kilcullenseaweedbaths.net
Hidden gem
We then decided to make a little more ground for the evening towards Benwee Head in Co Mayo for sunset. We were the only camper there that night and the next morning, went straight to Portacloy, where we had our breakfast. There was no one on the beach and it is definitely a hidden gem.
Eadaoin Moore and Stephen Morris started their adventure exploring the "Surf Coast" in Co Sligo and Co Mayo. \ Philip Doyle
That morning we took the coast route going through Rossport to Belmullet and played golf in the Carne Golf Links. They were very accommodating and allowed us rent the clubs and play in non-golf shoes. Price depends on whether or not you are a GUI member. Non-members were €35 per person for nine holes, including club rental with balls and tees.
Visit www.carnegolflinks.com
A different tour
We drove to the several viewpoints on the WAW map, before ending up at the tip of the Black Sod. Despite it being very far from any major towns it was a very busy spot on this particular day. We got chatting to a local fisherman, Jed, who does tours out to Inishkea Island during the summer months. We got the boat out to the island and spent a little while exploring the abandoned island, which was the perfect place for a late afternoon dip.
For further information, contact Geraghty Charters on 097-85741.
We then drove down to Doohoma Head and set up camp here for the night. This beach was most certainly one of our favourites and the unspoilt landscape in the pink sunset was incredible.
Cycling and kite surfing
The following day, we drove all the way to Keem beach on Achill Island, which was just voted in the top 10 beaches in the world. It lived up to all expectations. On a fine day, it is imperative that you arrive here early to get a parking spot. Also bring a picnic, as the nearest shop is a good drive away.
The following day we had planned to go kite surfing, but due to the lack of wind we cycled the greenway instead. We parked the camper on Keel beach that morning. The cycle can be broken up into parts, is well signposted and very safe. We cycled out to Mulranny, through Dugort and then onto Newport. There are a few hills in that area, but nothing a three-gear fold-up bike can’t handle! We had a well-deserved lunch and a pint of cider in the Gráinne Uaile before taking it easy on the cycle back.
Visit www.greenway.ie
Floating away
The following day, the wind had picked up so we were able to kite surf. We did this through a company called ‘Pure Magic’.
It feels super safe as you are only knee deep in water. We did some body drags and we both were lifted completely out of the water on several occasions, which felt like you were flying! A three-hour session costs €160 per person.
Visit www.puremagic.ie
A touch of the French
We drove into Westport, where we decided to do a barbecue and head out for a few drinks that night, with stops including Matt Molloy’s and Moran’s, which seemed to be a pub/ shop/hardware store.
Sitting outside in any pub in the Octagon was also a great way to start the evening. It felt like you were in any of the seaside towns in the French Riviera.
The next morning the sun was still shining, so we headed for Croagh Patrick bright and early. Half way up, looking down over a beautiful clear Clew Bay, the heavens opened, but the rain didn’t last for long and we still made it to the top.
Every town, village and area we went to gave us a warm welcome and really made me realise why so many foreign tourists call Irish people the friendliest people in the world! The majority of ‘The Surf Coast’ of Sligo and Mayo is relatively unexplored.
Eadaoin and Stephen's suggestions
Lunchtime picks
Three tasty lunch spots we came across on our trip included:
1
Shells, Strandhill, Co Sligo.
2
Pudding Row, Easky, Co Sligo.
3
Cafe Rua, Castlebar, Co Mayo.
Get on
your bike
Bikes are essential. They are especially handy for going to the shop and not having to pack up to use the camper.
The big
winner
The top 99 ice cream we tasted was at Healy’s Binghamstown in Belmullet, Co Mayo. But a close second
was Paddy’s Place,
Mullaghmore,
Co Sligo.
Read more
Reviving a rural gem in Rathanna
Easy for all in east Cork
This is a subscriber-only article
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