For more than 17 years, Neven Maguire has been a weekly contributor to Irish Country Living, sharing recipes and reflections that celebrate home cooking and Irish produce.
Looking back at his first column, he admits with a smile: “I lose track of time. It’s always a privilege, and a lot of fun. When you write a weekly column, you’re constantly thinking, can people make this? Is it doable? For me, it’s also about promoting good Irish produce, that was the intent right from the start and is still the way.”
He credits former Irish Country Living editor Mairead Lavery, along with columinist Katherine O’Leary, for supporting him from the beginning.
“They are two very special ladies. I remember at my first Ploughing [on the Irish Farmers Journal stand], they took me under their wing. I’ve always had huge admiration and respect for the whole team.”
Supporting local farmers and producers has always been ‘the heartbeat’ central to what Neven does, especially in his restaurant MacNean House at Blacklion. It was something his mother Vera instilled in him from the age of 12. She would buy meat from the local butcher and teach Neven how to cook it.
“We have the best meat and dairy in the world, I think. It’s really important for me to keep reminding people to shop local, shop seasonal, cook from scratch and enjoy good food as a family.
“The farming community in Ireland have done so much for the Irish economy. We are in a great place when it comes to Irish ingredients, but we need to constantly remind ourselves and support them.”
The pandemic reshaped hospitality, and its impact is still being felt, Neven believes. During COVID-19, VAT was temporarily reduced to 9%, but it has since returned to 13.5%. For many café and restaurant owners, particularly in rural Ireland, that increase has pushed businesses to the breaking point.
Neven Maguire gives his demo at the Women & Agriculture Conference.
“Restaurants are on their knees,” Neven admits. “Coffee shops definitely need the VAT reduction – it’s a lifeline for them. I think people are just hanging on with the skin of their teeth. Thankfully, we’re full every night, but without our bedrooms [B&B option], we wouldn’t survive, and that’s the truth,” he says.
His own business in Blacklion is in a stronger position than most, thanks to the 36 years of history, 60 employees and 20 bedrooms that help keep the restaurant viable, but he still acknowledges the pressures being felt across the industry.
“We do one sitting, which is never more than 60 people. COVID restructured our business and for the better. But employing 60 staff and buying top-quality ingredients like fillet steak and lobster comes at a cost. I don’t like supplements on menus – that’s just a personal thing. I love one price which has everything included. When people come to us, I know we’re not cheap, but we’re not expensive either.
“It’s an exciting time to be in food, because there are such interesting chefs and places to eat, but it is challenging. You have to be really careful and manage your costs,” says Neven.
Next generation
Neven also encourages households to be mindful of costs without compromising on flavour.
“Batch cooking, freezing and using versatile cuts that are cheaper, like chicken thighs, will help to make the most of your food budget.
“A fillet steak costs me nearly €20 before it even goes on the menu in the restaurant. But feather blade, short rib, or mince cooked low and slow are delicious. It’s about being clever about what you buy.”
As Ireland’s ambassador for Home Economics, Neven is determined to inspire the next generation of chefs and home cooks and promote the subject on the ground. He was the first boy in his school to take the subject and says it should be universal.
“It’s an absolutely superb subject, and every young person should do it, because it’s all about life skills. Teaching young people how food is produced and grown, and then how to cook, it’s the greatest gift we can give our kids.”
ICL 75th Edition Archive
Nevens’ 13-year-old twins are in second year in secondary school, and both are doing Home Economics.
“They’re like sponges, and if you nourish and educate them from a young age, they’ll value food for life and respect how hard the farming community works to produce our food. Good food shouldn’t be cheap; it should be a good, fair price for the consumer and for the farmer,” says Neven.
The pandemic also brought personal change. With the help of Andrea, his “guardian angel” who manages his diary and works in the restaurant, Neven has carved out more balance in his busy schedule. Music occupies his interest in the evenings – he enjoys spinning vinyls for an hour or two in his studio.
“I’ve been collecting vinyls since I was 15, and I had them all up in the attic with my decks that my mom and dad gave me for my 21st birthday. I always loved the music. During the pandemic, I just bought them down, and it’s reconnected me [to music]. I do little mixes on Instagram, and people love it,” he says, laughing.
The first vinyl he got was Felix ‘Don’t You Want Me’, which he picked up in Dublin in 1992 – and that was the first tune he played at Electric Picnic this summer.
“I have a lot of nice stories for some of the vinyls. One called Solarstone Seven Cities reminds me of making bread in the kitchen with my dad, and I was trying to communicate that at Electric Picnic.”
It was the first time he played for a live audience in 30 years, and although he was nervous, he would ‘absolutely’ do it again.
This autumn, Neven will once again take to the stage at the Women & Agriculture conference in Sligo, where he promises both food and fun.
“The energy in the room [at the Women & Agriculture conference] is magical. I think it’s definitely one of the highlights of the year. I’m really honoured to be asked to come back. We’ll cook a couple of lovely recipes, and I’ve been asked to play a couple of tunes before the interval at lunch.”
He’s also adding a twist as the best dancer at the conference will win an overnight stay and dinner for two in his restaurant.
“So, bring your dancing shoes. We’ll play a couple of upbeat, dance songs and people will hopefully go to lunch with a spring in their step,” adds Neven.
Irish Country Living contributor and well known Chef Neven Maguire rocked the Theatre of Food tent at Electric Picnic with DJ Marcus O'Laoire as he put the pans down to play his first DJ set in 30 years. \ Philip Doyle
See page 2 to book your ticket for the Women & Agriculture conference.
For more than 17 years, Neven Maguire has been a weekly contributor to Irish Country Living, sharing recipes and reflections that celebrate home cooking and Irish produce.
Looking back at his first column, he admits with a smile: “I lose track of time. It’s always a privilege, and a lot of fun. When you write a weekly column, you’re constantly thinking, can people make this? Is it doable? For me, it’s also about promoting good Irish produce, that was the intent right from the start and is still the way.”
He credits former Irish Country Living editor Mairead Lavery, along with columinist Katherine O’Leary, for supporting him from the beginning.
“They are two very special ladies. I remember at my first Ploughing [on the Irish Farmers Journal stand], they took me under their wing. I’ve always had huge admiration and respect for the whole team.”
Supporting local farmers and producers has always been ‘the heartbeat’ central to what Neven does, especially in his restaurant MacNean House at Blacklion. It was something his mother Vera instilled in him from the age of 12. She would buy meat from the local butcher and teach Neven how to cook it.
“We have the best meat and dairy in the world, I think. It’s really important for me to keep reminding people to shop local, shop seasonal, cook from scratch and enjoy good food as a family.
“The farming community in Ireland have done so much for the Irish economy. We are in a great place when it comes to Irish ingredients, but we need to constantly remind ourselves and support them.”
The pandemic reshaped hospitality, and its impact is still being felt, Neven believes. During COVID-19, VAT was temporarily reduced to 9%, but it has since returned to 13.5%. For many café and restaurant owners, particularly in rural Ireland, that increase has pushed businesses to the breaking point.
Neven Maguire gives his demo at the Women & Agriculture Conference.
“Restaurants are on their knees,” Neven admits. “Coffee shops definitely need the VAT reduction – it’s a lifeline for them. I think people are just hanging on with the skin of their teeth. Thankfully, we’re full every night, but without our bedrooms [B&B option], we wouldn’t survive, and that’s the truth,” he says.
His own business in Blacklion is in a stronger position than most, thanks to the 36 years of history, 60 employees and 20 bedrooms that help keep the restaurant viable, but he still acknowledges the pressures being felt across the industry.
“We do one sitting, which is never more than 60 people. COVID restructured our business and for the better. But employing 60 staff and buying top-quality ingredients like fillet steak and lobster comes at a cost. I don’t like supplements on menus – that’s just a personal thing. I love one price which has everything included. When people come to us, I know we’re not cheap, but we’re not expensive either.
“It’s an exciting time to be in food, because there are such interesting chefs and places to eat, but it is challenging. You have to be really careful and manage your costs,” says Neven.
Next generation
Neven also encourages households to be mindful of costs without compromising on flavour.
“Batch cooking, freezing and using versatile cuts that are cheaper, like chicken thighs, will help to make the most of your food budget.
“A fillet steak costs me nearly €20 before it even goes on the menu in the restaurant. But feather blade, short rib, or mince cooked low and slow are delicious. It’s about being clever about what you buy.”
As Ireland’s ambassador for Home Economics, Neven is determined to inspire the next generation of chefs and home cooks and promote the subject on the ground. He was the first boy in his school to take the subject and says it should be universal.
“It’s an absolutely superb subject, and every young person should do it, because it’s all about life skills. Teaching young people how food is produced and grown, and then how to cook, it’s the greatest gift we can give our kids.”
ICL 75th Edition Archive
Nevens’ 13-year-old twins are in second year in secondary school, and both are doing Home Economics.
“They’re like sponges, and if you nourish and educate them from a young age, they’ll value food for life and respect how hard the farming community works to produce our food. Good food shouldn’t be cheap; it should be a good, fair price for the consumer and for the farmer,” says Neven.
The pandemic also brought personal change. With the help of Andrea, his “guardian angel” who manages his diary and works in the restaurant, Neven has carved out more balance in his busy schedule. Music occupies his interest in the evenings – he enjoys spinning vinyls for an hour or two in his studio.
“I’ve been collecting vinyls since I was 15, and I had them all up in the attic with my decks that my mom and dad gave me for my 21st birthday. I always loved the music. During the pandemic, I just bought them down, and it’s reconnected me [to music]. I do little mixes on Instagram, and people love it,” he says, laughing.
The first vinyl he got was Felix ‘Don’t You Want Me’, which he picked up in Dublin in 1992 – and that was the first tune he played at Electric Picnic this summer.
“I have a lot of nice stories for some of the vinyls. One called Solarstone Seven Cities reminds me of making bread in the kitchen with my dad, and I was trying to communicate that at Electric Picnic.”
It was the first time he played for a live audience in 30 years, and although he was nervous, he would ‘absolutely’ do it again.
This autumn, Neven will once again take to the stage at the Women & Agriculture conference in Sligo, where he promises both food and fun.
“The energy in the room [at the Women & Agriculture conference] is magical. I think it’s definitely one of the highlights of the year. I’m really honoured to be asked to come back. We’ll cook a couple of lovely recipes, and I’ve been asked to play a couple of tunes before the interval at lunch.”
He’s also adding a twist as the best dancer at the conference will win an overnight stay and dinner for two in his restaurant.
“So, bring your dancing shoes. We’ll play a couple of upbeat, dance songs and people will hopefully go to lunch with a spring in their step,” adds Neven.
Irish Country Living contributor and well known Chef Neven Maguire rocked the Theatre of Food tent at Electric Picnic with DJ Marcus O'Laoire as he put the pans down to play his first DJ set in 30 years. \ Philip Doyle
See page 2 to book your ticket for the Women & Agriculture conference.
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