One of the big pluses of touring Co Carlow is that it’s a small county, so you spend more time visiting the sights than in the car burning diesel. Given the short distances, it made sense to be based in one location for my two nights in the county and I stayed with Bernadine and Jimmy Mulhall at their lovely farmhouse in Ballickmoyler.
For more information on Co Carlow, visit
www.carlowtourism.com | T: 059-913 0411
Home from home
Bernadine has won numerous awards for her superb accommodation and food and it’s easy to see why. I was in the Glennmore, a fine sized room with views out over the garden. Smoked salmon, omelettes and their own organic sausages, rashers, eggs and the Great Taste award-winning black and white puddings were excellent choices for breakfast. All washed down with their own apple juice – and the delicious scones were straight out of the oven.
Coolanowle Country House.
The eight-bedroomed house is set in lovely grounds, perfect for young families who want to kick a ball around. Bernadine opens for B&B at the weekends and has excellent facilities to cater for parties, small weddings and family groups. She also has three self-catering units, two of which are converted cow houses and the third is a log cabin, which are open all year round. B&B costs €125 per room.
For more on Coolanowle Country House and Organic Farm, contact: Bernadine 059-862 5176/087-610 4108 | info@coolanowle.com | www.coolanowle.com | Post code: R93 C3K4
More than snowdrops
Every February I make a pilgrimage to Altamont Gardens for the snowdrops so this was my chance to see the place while the summer borders were looking good. The gardens cover 40 acres and include some lovely river and countryside walks. The roses were looking great and will produce good displays right up to October. So too were the borders with phlox, crocosmia and Japanese anemones standing out. And believe it or not the first snowdrops will appear in November.
Altamout Gardens, Co Carlow.
If you want to see a 70-year-old handkerchief tree in full blossom then visit in May. During June, the 40-metre arched walkway of wisteria floribunda ‘Alba’ will make your heart soar. This is a seriously romantic garden so no wonder it has become a favourite place to “pop the question”.
When you’re finished rambling, there are refreshments at Altamont’s walled garden café managed by Sugar & Spice from Bunclody. Try the raspberry and lemon gateau – yummy. Then drop into Robert Miller in Altamont Plant Sales to hear details of his special offers during the Ploughing and autumn gardening courses including growing cut flowers and painting in the garden with Jacinta Crowley-Long.
Altamont Gardens: 059-915 9444 |
www.carlowgardentrail.com
Robert Miller: 087-982 2135 |
sales@altamontplants.com
Hundreds of years of history
The Huntington Estate was bought by the Esmondes in 1615 and a castle constructed on the site of a former abbey has been lived in by the family since 1625. That’s not surprising as it is situated beside the River Derry with the River Slaney just a mile away and this was an important trade artery from Carlow to Dublin.
Huntington Castle.
Alex and Clare Durdin-Robertson and their three little boys, are the latest in a long family line to live in Huntington Castle and Alex serves up a stormer of a guided tour. Tales of great aunt Nora who shot a crocodile at the age of 17 and who was a leading light in the ICA had Irish Country Living intrigued.
The basement of the castle is home to the famous Temple of the Goddess, where a religion called the Fellowship of Isis was founded in 1976. The religion, which today has thousands of world followers, celebrates the female aspect of divinity, the Egyptian goddess Isis and Brigid.
There’s almost 400 years of original paintings and furniture to be found here along with a restored kitchen lined with copper pots and pans. It’s worth visiting for the tapestries alone. They reckon it took one person one year to make one square metre of tapestry.
The ‘Theatre’ is a fine space for small events and talks while a double row of ancient yew trees is something special to behold. Lunch is available for pre-arranged groups but all can enjoy the delicious menu in the tea room. The castle is located right in the middle of the pretty village of Clonegal where you’ll find Sha-Roe bistro and two lovely pubs – Osbornes and Dunnes. And the great news is that you can experience living in a castle as B&B is €95 per person sharing.
For more on Huntington Castle and Gardens, contact Alex and Clare Durdin-Robertson | www.huntingtoncastle.com |
053-937 7160 | info@huntingtoncastle.com
History in abundance
From Clonegal we travelled to Bunclody and then headed over the Blackstairs Mountains, with its stunning views of the Carlow countryside, to Borris and on to the seventh century ecclesiastical site of St Mullins. On the way, try to fit in a stop at the Nine Stones and Kilbrannish Forest recreation area. You can also make a quick detour to Rathanna, another of the lovely villages of Carlow.
Books have been written about the ecclesiastical and archaeological importance of St Mullins so suffice to say if history is your thing, well there’s plenty of it here.
St Mullin's Church and Monastic Site, Co Carlow.
Everything from McMorrough Kavanagh, to 1798 insurgents, to a 12th-century motte that in penal times was used as a look-out point.
In more recent times, Michael Flatley’s parents are buried here as his mother came from the locality and his grandmother was a noted Irish dancing teacher. So he didn’t pick it off the stones.
A short walk will bring you down to the River Barrow and the Barrow Way walking route that stretches 114km to Lowtown in Co Kildare and 8km to Graiguenamanagh. A stroll to the first lock will set you up nicely for a bite to eat at Mullicháin Café.
The mill store that houses the café dates back to the 1700s and was owned by the Grand Canal Co. for two centuries.
Mullicháin Cafe, Co Carlow.
After being vacant for 30 years it was bought by the O’Brien family in 1999 and they used it as a holiday home. “We were all into canoeing and dad was interested in old buildings so it was perfect for us,” says Mark O’Brien.
In 2007, they opened the café with eight tables and in just a few years that has grown to 26 tables. Mark reckons 70% of their business comes from local people.
“You are either coming here or you are lost,” he says. Quiches, soups, antipasto and 10 desserts are all made on site. And next year Mark intends to offer bike hire.
Local Markets
Support Carlow Farmers’ Market as it celebrates its 15th birthday. This popular market sells a wide variety of fresh fruit, vegetables, meats, juices and home baking. Fresh flowers are also on sale. The market opens on Saturdays in the Potato Market near the centre of Carlow from 9am-2pm.
Just a sample of produce available at Carlow farmers' Market every Saturday morning
Also, visit the newly opened Coolanowle Food Hall located on 7-8 Dublin Street. This is a serious fresh food store and a great addition to the town. It’s a gorgeous space offering freshly baked artisan breads, organic meats, cheeses, salads and desserts and between the shop and café employs eight people.
Contact: 087-273 8061
Take a tour of Carlow county Museum
Opened in 2012 this is the newest local authority museum in the country and is already attracting over 25,000 visitors a year. Learn more about Kevin Barry who came from Rathvilly, see the pulpit from Carlow cathedral, selected as one of the top 100 items to see in a museum in Ireland, and reflect on how important sugar was to the rural economy of Carlow.
Located on College Street,
T: 059-913 1554 |
www.carlowcountymuseum.ie
Dine out
Eat out in Lennon’s @Visual.
Lennon's @Visual, Co Carlow.
I recommend the potted Wexford crab with spiced pineapple, mango and red pepper salsa, mini tempura of lemon sole for €12.50. It’s located on the lower ground floor of the Visual Arts centre.
Call 059-917 9245 for more
Chocolate heaven
We had great fun at a chocolate making workshop at the Chocolate Garden of Ireland. Mary and Jim Healy are in business for 18 years and have weathered two recessions by adapting their business and moving with the times.
The Chocolate Garden, Co Carlow.
This is a great place for children and adults, especially on a damp day as there’s plenty of indoor space. A chocolate mould making workshop lasts for 30-40 minutes, is suitable for all ages and costs €10.
A chocolate workshop runs for 90 minutes and costs €13.50. And you get to keep the chocolate. No wonder this is a popular venue for school tours and hen parties. Don’t forget that Rathwood, the shopping emporium supreme is located right next door.
Located at Rath East, Tullow, Eircode R93 PY82
Contact: Mary or Jim Healy 059-648 1999 |
www.chocolategarden.ie
Past glory
Once a grand castle, Duckett’s Grove is now one of the most photographed ruins in the country. And it’s easy to see why with all its towers and haunted atmosphere. Once the centre of a vast estate, the grove was home to the Duckett family for most of three centuries.
Double herbaceous borders at Duckett's Grove.
In 1933, the interior was destroyed by a fire. What remains is a stunning Gothic exterior and two beautiful interconnecting walled gardens. In the upper walled garden, there’s a fabulous double herbaceous border that appears to stretch out forever. The lower walled garden, a former orchard, is now home to figs and historical varieties of Irish apple. This is a lovely place for a quiet walk and serious contemplation.
Duckett’s Grove, Kneestown, Co Carlow, Eircode R93 RF80
One of the big pluses of touring Co Carlow is that it’s a small county, so you spend more time visiting the sights than in the car burning diesel. Given the short distances, it made sense to be based in one location for my two nights in the county and I stayed with Bernadine and Jimmy Mulhall at their lovely farmhouse in Ballickmoyler.
For more information on Co Carlow, visit
www.carlowtourism.com | T: 059-913 0411
Home from home
Bernadine has won numerous awards for her superb accommodation and food and it’s easy to see why. I was in the Glennmore, a fine sized room with views out over the garden. Smoked salmon, omelettes and their own organic sausages, rashers, eggs and the Great Taste award-winning black and white puddings were excellent choices for breakfast. All washed down with their own apple juice – and the delicious scones were straight out of the oven.
Coolanowle Country House.
The eight-bedroomed house is set in lovely grounds, perfect for young families who want to kick a ball around. Bernadine opens for B&B at the weekends and has excellent facilities to cater for parties, small weddings and family groups. She also has three self-catering units, two of which are converted cow houses and the third is a log cabin, which are open all year round. B&B costs €125 per room.
For more on Coolanowle Country House and Organic Farm, contact: Bernadine 059-862 5176/087-610 4108 | info@coolanowle.com | www.coolanowle.com | Post code: R93 C3K4
More than snowdrops
Every February I make a pilgrimage to Altamont Gardens for the snowdrops so this was my chance to see the place while the summer borders were looking good. The gardens cover 40 acres and include some lovely river and countryside walks. The roses were looking great and will produce good displays right up to October. So too were the borders with phlox, crocosmia and Japanese anemones standing out. And believe it or not the first snowdrops will appear in November.
Altamout Gardens, Co Carlow.
If you want to see a 70-year-old handkerchief tree in full blossom then visit in May. During June, the 40-metre arched walkway of wisteria floribunda ‘Alba’ will make your heart soar. This is a seriously romantic garden so no wonder it has become a favourite place to “pop the question”.
When you’re finished rambling, there are refreshments at Altamont’s walled garden café managed by Sugar & Spice from Bunclody. Try the raspberry and lemon gateau – yummy. Then drop into Robert Miller in Altamont Plant Sales to hear details of his special offers during the Ploughing and autumn gardening courses including growing cut flowers and painting in the garden with Jacinta Crowley-Long.
Altamont Gardens: 059-915 9444 |
www.carlowgardentrail.com
Robert Miller: 087-982 2135 |
sales@altamontplants.com
Hundreds of years of history
The Huntington Estate was bought by the Esmondes in 1615 and a castle constructed on the site of a former abbey has been lived in by the family since 1625. That’s not surprising as it is situated beside the River Derry with the River Slaney just a mile away and this was an important trade artery from Carlow to Dublin.
Huntington Castle.
Alex and Clare Durdin-Robertson and their three little boys, are the latest in a long family line to live in Huntington Castle and Alex serves up a stormer of a guided tour. Tales of great aunt Nora who shot a crocodile at the age of 17 and who was a leading light in the ICA had Irish Country Living intrigued.
The basement of the castle is home to the famous Temple of the Goddess, where a religion called the Fellowship of Isis was founded in 1976. The religion, which today has thousands of world followers, celebrates the female aspect of divinity, the Egyptian goddess Isis and Brigid.
There’s almost 400 years of original paintings and furniture to be found here along with a restored kitchen lined with copper pots and pans. It’s worth visiting for the tapestries alone. They reckon it took one person one year to make one square metre of tapestry.
The ‘Theatre’ is a fine space for small events and talks while a double row of ancient yew trees is something special to behold. Lunch is available for pre-arranged groups but all can enjoy the delicious menu in the tea room. The castle is located right in the middle of the pretty village of Clonegal where you’ll find Sha-Roe bistro and two lovely pubs – Osbornes and Dunnes. And the great news is that you can experience living in a castle as B&B is €95 per person sharing.
For more on Huntington Castle and Gardens, contact Alex and Clare Durdin-Robertson | www.huntingtoncastle.com |
053-937 7160 | info@huntingtoncastle.com
History in abundance
From Clonegal we travelled to Bunclody and then headed over the Blackstairs Mountains, with its stunning views of the Carlow countryside, to Borris and on to the seventh century ecclesiastical site of St Mullins. On the way, try to fit in a stop at the Nine Stones and Kilbrannish Forest recreation area. You can also make a quick detour to Rathanna, another of the lovely villages of Carlow.
Books have been written about the ecclesiastical and archaeological importance of St Mullins so suffice to say if history is your thing, well there’s plenty of it here.
St Mullin's Church and Monastic Site, Co Carlow.
Everything from McMorrough Kavanagh, to 1798 insurgents, to a 12th-century motte that in penal times was used as a look-out point.
In more recent times, Michael Flatley’s parents are buried here as his mother came from the locality and his grandmother was a noted Irish dancing teacher. So he didn’t pick it off the stones.
A short walk will bring you down to the River Barrow and the Barrow Way walking route that stretches 114km to Lowtown in Co Kildare and 8km to Graiguenamanagh. A stroll to the first lock will set you up nicely for a bite to eat at Mullicháin Café.
The mill store that houses the café dates back to the 1700s and was owned by the Grand Canal Co. for two centuries.
Mullicháin Cafe, Co Carlow.
After being vacant for 30 years it was bought by the O’Brien family in 1999 and they used it as a holiday home. “We were all into canoeing and dad was interested in old buildings so it was perfect for us,” says Mark O’Brien.
In 2007, they opened the café with eight tables and in just a few years that has grown to 26 tables. Mark reckons 70% of their business comes from local people.
“You are either coming here or you are lost,” he says. Quiches, soups, antipasto and 10 desserts are all made on site. And next year Mark intends to offer bike hire.
Local Markets
Support Carlow Farmers’ Market as it celebrates its 15th birthday. This popular market sells a wide variety of fresh fruit, vegetables, meats, juices and home baking. Fresh flowers are also on sale. The market opens on Saturdays in the Potato Market near the centre of Carlow from 9am-2pm.
Just a sample of produce available at Carlow farmers' Market every Saturday morning
Also, visit the newly opened Coolanowle Food Hall located on 7-8 Dublin Street. This is a serious fresh food store and a great addition to the town. It’s a gorgeous space offering freshly baked artisan breads, organic meats, cheeses, salads and desserts and between the shop and café employs eight people.
Contact: 087-273 8061
Take a tour of Carlow county Museum
Opened in 2012 this is the newest local authority museum in the country and is already attracting over 25,000 visitors a year. Learn more about Kevin Barry who came from Rathvilly, see the pulpit from Carlow cathedral, selected as one of the top 100 items to see in a museum in Ireland, and reflect on how important sugar was to the rural economy of Carlow.
Located on College Street,
T: 059-913 1554 |
www.carlowcountymuseum.ie
Dine out
Eat out in Lennon’s @Visual.
Lennon's @Visual, Co Carlow.
I recommend the potted Wexford crab with spiced pineapple, mango and red pepper salsa, mini tempura of lemon sole for €12.50. It’s located on the lower ground floor of the Visual Arts centre.
Call 059-917 9245 for more
Chocolate heaven
We had great fun at a chocolate making workshop at the Chocolate Garden of Ireland. Mary and Jim Healy are in business for 18 years and have weathered two recessions by adapting their business and moving with the times.
The Chocolate Garden, Co Carlow.
This is a great place for children and adults, especially on a damp day as there’s plenty of indoor space. A chocolate mould making workshop lasts for 30-40 minutes, is suitable for all ages and costs €10.
A chocolate workshop runs for 90 minutes and costs €13.50. And you get to keep the chocolate. No wonder this is a popular venue for school tours and hen parties. Don’t forget that Rathwood, the shopping emporium supreme is located right next door.
Located at Rath East, Tullow, Eircode R93 PY82
Contact: Mary or Jim Healy 059-648 1999 |
www.chocolategarden.ie
Past glory
Once a grand castle, Duckett’s Grove is now one of the most photographed ruins in the country. And it’s easy to see why with all its towers and haunted atmosphere. Once the centre of a vast estate, the grove was home to the Duckett family for most of three centuries.
Double herbaceous borders at Duckett's Grove.
In 1933, the interior was destroyed by a fire. What remains is a stunning Gothic exterior and two beautiful interconnecting walled gardens. In the upper walled garden, there’s a fabulous double herbaceous border that appears to stretch out forever. The lower walled garden, a former orchard, is now home to figs and historical varieties of Irish apple. This is a lovely place for a quiet walk and serious contemplation.
Duckett’s Grove, Kneestown, Co Carlow, Eircode R93 RF80
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