When I first started out as a young chef, the Irish palate was still deeply rooted in tradition – think bacon, cabbage and potatoes. And that’s not a bad thing either, as there is comfort in those dishes. However, our palate has evolved over the years. Can you imagine back then, someone suggesting putting coffee in a taco? – see our first recipe this week. It certainly would have raised a few eyebrows.
Fast forward to today and it’s incredible how much things have changed. We are ready to explore new flavours from around the world and I believe Irish cooking is all the better for it. Ingredients that once seemed exotic are now easy to come by in local supermarkets like, chipotle, paprika and cumin.
Coffee in tacos may be a world away from the dishes I started out learning, but that’s what makes cooking today so exciting, especially with new restaurants of all types and sizes opening up.
That said, while new flavours are always welcome in my kitchen at MacNean restaurant, beef is still our biggest seller. Traditional dishes remain close to our hearts, so it’s a matter of some pride that we are the only country in the world to have PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) status for our grass-fed beef.
It’s a recognition of the quality and care that goes into every cut, so a big shout-out to the incredible farmers, north and south of the border, who make it all possible. I never tire of seeing cattle grazing in the fields around the country – something you really notice the absence of when you travel abroad.
The pride I feel now about Irish beef is the same pride I felt many years ago when I was working in a hotel in Germany with about 125 chefs. On my first day I was brought over to a huge fridge and there, sitting proudly was Irish beef and lamb.
Although when I told them I didn’t drink Guinness, they started to doubt that I was really Irish!
Taco-flavoured dishes
From trendy urban restaurants to laid-back food trucks in the countryside, Mexican-inspired eateries are flourishing across the country. The success of these businesses has even inspired Irish growers to start producing Mexican ingredients locally.
Our first recipe – chipotle beef crunchy tacos – has a classic Mexican feel, but it you want to bring an Irish twist, try Folláin in Co Cork, they make an amazing chipotle marinade (follain.ie).
Thanks to James Whelan Butchers, beef dripping has been brought back in to fashion and can be found on their website (jameswhelanbutchers.com). I also like to use 10% fat mince for flavour and moisture.
Instead of cabbage, I sometimes use crunchy iceberg lettuce. Adding the coffee gives a nice, earthy, savoury note. It is a bit like adding chocolate to a chilli con carne recipe. Some people like it and others not so much – so I usually make one for the recipe and one for myself. This is a great meal to batch-cook and freeze.
Next up are the steak tacos. You could serve them on a large board in the centre of the table with plenty of accompaniments and allow everyone to build their own.
I like to use sirloin or striploin as the nice marbling keeps it moist. This recipe also works well with the breast of turkey or chicken. Baby gem or iceberg lettuce adds a nice crunch. This is not a very hot meal, though the pickled jalapeños add a zing and heat, so make sure it is to your taste. If you do prepare in advance, allow the steaks to come back up to room temperature before cooking.
Let’s continue to evolve, explore and widen our palates and taste.
Ingredients: Serves 4-6
25g beef dripping
500g minced beef steak
2 large onions, thinly sliced
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
250ml chipotle marinade
500ml beef stock
1 shot of espresso coffee (optional)
1 x 400g tin of black beans
1 x 170g packet of hard shell tacos
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
To serve:
Shredded white cabbage
Ready-made soured cream and chive dip
Guacamole tomato salsa
Fresh coriander leaves
Method
1 Heat a casserole over a high heat. Tip in the beef dripping and swirl it around to heat it up. Add the mince and sauté quickly until browned. Add the onions and garlic and continue to sauté for another 10 minutes, until the onions are well softened and beginning to caramelise.
2 Stir in the chipotle marinade and cook for 2-3 minutes, until sticky. Pour in the stock and espresso (if using). Drain the black beans and add the juices from the tin, stirring to combine. Season generously with pepper and simmer vigorously for 20 minutes. Stir in the black beans and simmer for another 10 minutes, until the beef is tender and the liquid has completely reduced. This can be covered with cling film and kept in the fridge or is perfect for freezing.
3 Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180°c (350°F/gas mark 4). Place the tacos on a baking sheet and heat in the oven for 2-3 minutes.
4 Fill the crispy tacos with the shredded cabbage, then add a spoonful of the chipotle beef and top with the sour cream and chive dip, guacamole and tomato salsa. Scatter over the coriander to serve.
Ingredients: Serves 4
Juice of 1 lime, plus extra wedges to garnish
3 tbsp olive oil, plus a little extra for cooking
2 tsp ground cumin
2 tsp smoked paprika
4 garlic cloves, crushed
2 x 225g sirloin steaks (dry-aged if possible)
2 red onions, cut into wedges
1 red pepper, cut into 1cm slices
1 orange pepper, cut into 1cm slices
8–12 corn tortillas
1 romaine lettuce, shredded
2 ripe avocados, stoned, peeled and sliced
For the crema and salsa:
Finely grated rind and juice of 1 lime
200ml soured cream
1 x 200g jar of pickled jalapeños, drained
20g fresh coriander, leaves stripped and stalks chopped
200g mixed red and yellow cherry tomatoes, diced
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Method
1 Put the lime juice in a shallow non-metallic dish and add the oil, cumin, smoked paprika and garlic. Add the steaks and turn to coat, then add the onion wedges and peppers, tossing to take up the rest of the marinade. Cover with cling film and marinate for at least 20 minutes at room temperature or up to 24 hours in the fridge.
2 To make the crema, put half of both the lime rind and juice in a blender. Add 2 tbsp of the soured cream, a couple slices of jalapeño peppers and the coriander stalks. Blitz to a purée, then transfer to a bowl and stir in the rest of the soured cream and season to taste. Cover with cling film and chill for up to 24 hours in advance.
3 To make the salsa, finely chop a couple more jalapeño slices and mix with the tomatoes and the rest of the lime rind and juice. Season to taste. cover with cling film and chill for up to 24 hours in advance. Tear in the coriander leaves just before serving.
4 Heat a griddle pan over a high heat and warm the tortillas until lightly marked on one side only, then wrap them in a clean tea towel to keep warm.
5 Brush the griddle pan with a little oil and cook the steaks for 2-3 minutes on each side or until cooked to your liking. transfer to a plate and loosely cover with tin foil. Leave to rest while you cook the vegetables.
6 Toss the onions and peppers well in the remaining marinade, then chargrill in batches for 2-3 minutes on each side, piling them up on a serving platter or board as you go.
7 Add the bowls of crema, salsa and the rest of the jalapeños to the platter or board along with the lettuce and avocados.
8 Thinly slice the steaks and garnish with the lime wedges and reserved coriander leaves. Unwrap the tortillas and serve everything family-style at the table.
Photographer: Philip Doyle. Food styling: Janine Kennedy.
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