Did you know that the Cliffs of Moher is Ireland’s most-visited attraction? Each year, Co Clare’s iconic coastal landscape brings in well over a million tourists. This accolade is well-deserved: on a clear day, the cliffs are absolutely stunning; their location on the Wild Atlantic Way and within the Burren and Cliffs of Moher Geopark make for a great summer visit.
But much like our dining-out habits, post-COVID travel habits have changed. While the Cliffs still attract a high number of visitors each year (mainly coming from the United States, UK and from within Ireland itself), most stay for only a fleeting visit, often barely taking in the surrounding region.
“People come in on a bus and then out on a bus – they don’t actually leave anything behind in the community,” says Brian Mahony, who operates Coastal Way Lodge with his wife, Emily, in nearby Liscannor. “There could be 40 buses up there at a time, they might eat in the café and move on to Galway, but most go back to Dublin.”
Though Brian is originally from outsideTipperary town and Emily was born and raised in Vancouver, Canada, the pair fell in love with Liscannor and always dreamed of living by the sea with their three children. The Mahonys often visited this part of Co Clare and, when the former Carrig House Bed & Breakfast was put up for sale, decided to take the plunge into coastal life permanently.
I’ve always loved hosting and interiors. It was amazing to be able to pull on these strengths and the things Brian is skilled in – working with his hands – we were able to bring everything together
Earlier this year, they launched Coastal Way Lodge as a boutique, family-friendly retreat; offering a newly renovated six-room bed and breakfast and self-catering accommodation which spans their 2.5ac property. The couple first met when Brian was living and working in Vancouver. They moved to Ireland in 2016, when he was offered a role as Connacht Rugby’s chief commercial officer.
Working with Connacht Rugby helped Brian and Emily see rural life through a different lens.
“It’s a professional rugby club, but their main purpose is, really, to inspire their community,” Brian says. “They’re very much about trying to give people the belief in Connacht, that you can stay in Connacht or rural Ireland and achieve your dreams – you don’t need to move to a bigger city.
“[Emily and I] have spent a lot of time thinking about that messaging.”
Rural innovation
Rural development isn’t possible without innovative hospitality offerings – the two go hand-in-hand – but in recent years, the industry has been hit by ever-increasing costs of operation. Rural operators often bemoan the fact that most visitors seem to be using Dublin as a base and taking in rural sights, like the Cliffs of Moher, as day trips.
Equally, though, the COVID era saw an increasing number of families and entrepreneurs choosing to live and work in rural Ireland. Businesses like Coastal Way Lodge are offering an alternative to Dublin as a ‘home base’ and are helping visitors discover other local foods, restaurants and businesses as a result.
“We’re seeing a number of people wanting to use our space as their base,” Emily remarks. “We’re trying to encourage people to take a few days and explore the area, because there’s so much on offer. We had guests here, recently, who were going to Miltown Malbay for the [Willie Clancy] music festival. They were with us for three days and were also planning to do the boat tour of the Cliffs of Moher.”
“They went to the Willie Clancy, ate in both restaurants in Liscannor, went to Clahane for a swim, they were out on the Aran Islands Ferry, went to Doolin and they used our local taxi drivers,” Brian adds. “These visits make a big difference for the whole community.”
Brian and Emily have put a lot of themselves into this new hospitality offering, spending countless hours working on renovations, finding the right décor and sourcing local ingredients for their home-cooked breakfast (which includes freshly baked breads and Emily’s own homemade granola). They wanted to keep the feel of an authentic bed and breakfast experience, but in an elevated, relaxed way.
“In this area, there’s definitely an accommodation need for something that isn’t an Airbnb,” Brian says. “When we decided to do this, we wanted to take an authentic approach, but keep things modern. We renovated, but we’ve kept the vibes warm, with a nice welcome and plenty of time for chats. We always greet each guest with a drink or a cup of tea.”
Both Brian and Emily have varied backgrounds – Brian studied aeronautical engineering before moving to Canada for a gap year, which turned into an over decade-long stay. He and Emily met in 2012, when she was working as an events coordinator for seniors’ homes and he was working in sports media. In countless ways, their varied backgrounds and interests have prepared them for a career in hospitality.
“I’ve always loved hosting and interiors,” Emily says. “It was amazing to be able to pull on these strengths and the things Brian is skilled in – working with his hands – we were able to bring everything together.”
“Recently, I had a day where I was plumbing, then we were tiling, I was building the website and talking about PR, then we had to wash all the sheets,” Brian says. “Between all of these tasks, meeting guests and cooking breakfast, you do a bit of everything in a day.
“To work in hospitality, you really have to like people, but what is interesting about this work is it gives you a bit of heart. If you only listen to the news, you’d think the world is ending. I know we’re meeting people on holidays when they’re in great moods, but meeting these people from different places, everyone has been really lovely.”
“It definitely restores your faith in humanity,” Emily agrees.
Embracing community
The community of Liscannor has welcomed Emily and Brian with open arms and are pleased to have family-friendly accommodation in the locality. While the high season is busy with tourists, the quieter winter months will allow for weekend retreats and collaborations with other local businesses. Those who initially helped the pair set up shop are now considered good friends.
“We had 100-hour weeks just trying to get everything done [before opening], but there were loads of Clare people who helped us out,” Brian says. “The guy who did the gardening for the previous business has stayed on with us – he recommended a painter, a plasterer, an electrician and a plumber. Now, a lot of these guys just call in for cups of tea. The plasterer is also a beekeeper – he supplies us with our honey.”
Brian and Emily are in the thick of their first busy season and have been overwhelmed with the positive response from their guests. From September, they will provide the option of renting their entire property on a self-catering basis – ideal for large extended families looking to book together.
The future is certainly looking positive for the couple. They are providing a vital community service in an area largely dependent on tourism – on their doorsteps, you’ll find Clahane beach with its coastal saunas, down the road is Lahinch with its prized golf course, Ennistymon and Lisdoonvarna are short jaunts away with different food and cultural experiences and, of course, the Cliffs of Moher are just down the road.
“Overwhelmingly, the feedback has been so positive,” Brian says. “For the future, we are definitely leaning toward that inter-generational family accommodation. We have a big extended family, we all like to go away together and it can be difficult to find accommodation. We’re also dog-friendly.”
“We also want to put a focus on making things fun for kids,” Emily adds. “If we were booking somewhere, we’d want somewhere where our kids felt entertained, so we would like to provide that for others. This way, a few families can stay together – the kids can play and parents can cook, enjoy a glass of wine and have a bit of peace.”
See coastalwaylodge.com
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