It’s 6.30am and Limerick’s Milk Market is already buzzing with activity. The place is chock-a-block with vans unloading crates of everything from fresh milk to vegetables, cut flowers, charcuterie and lots, lots more. Outside the rain is crashing down, but the circus-like big top canopy keeps almost all of the stalls cosy and dry.

By 8am, the early morning regulars have arrived. These include taxi drivers, gardaí, nurses and prison officers coming off their night shifts, along with people on their way to work. All the lovely food around the market makes people very hungry, so there’s plenty of hot food options on offer.

The Limerick Milk Market can trace its roots to the 13th century and the courtyard within which the market now operates was built in 1830. The Limerick Market Trustees was established by an act of parliament in 1852 and its job was to run a range of markets across the city.

The Milk Market covers the 60 stalls inside the courtyard, but there’s another 45 outside and there’s a long waiting list to get in, according to market manager David Fitzgerald.

“We are always looking for something new or niche, as we don’t want to duplicate the offering,” he says. Footfall is strong, with a Saturday average of 10,000 to 12,000. The peak was 15,792 for Christmas two years ago.

Saturday is the big day at the market, but it also operates on Fridays, with a street food, craft and collectable offering. On Sundays, there’s yoga, flower arranging and lots of other classes and workshops. Plus, you can rent the market space for corporate events, long-table dinners and even weddings.

And the market is a real boost to the city – a 2013 report by the Limerick Institute of Technology stated that €32m was spent annually in the local economy based on the draw of the market. That big-top magic must be working well.

Stallholders

Every Friday during the summer, Oliver Beaujouan swims in the Atlantic Ocean near his home in Castlegregory, Co Kerry. He says it sets him up for his day at the Milk Market: “I leave home at 2.30am, so I need the energy,” he says.

Oliver owns On the Wild Side and has been part of the market for over 20 years. His first offering was wild garlic pesto.

Now he has a full range of charcuterie, pâtés and chorizo that are all homemade. He rears and slaughters his own pigs to make a wide range of salamis. Pickled and spaghetti seaweed are also popular with customers.

“I think of myself as a pioneer for new food. I give people the opportunity to try new foods and it works.”

After 30 years running well-known deli Country Choice in Nenagh, Peter Ward expanded to the Milk Market about six years ago. “We are here since they put the roof on and we love it. It’s like Barcelona meets the Shannon.”

His daughters Evie and Eliza run the Nut Shed, which specialises in dried fruit and nuts.

Peter says the market is the heart and soul of the city socially, with 12,000 people visiting every Saturday. “It appeals to people right across the region. It suits everybody and every pocket and there’s plenty of choice. It’s price competitive too.”

Mimi Crawford travels from Cloughjordan to the market every Saturday. She has eight dairy cows and sells raw milk, cream and butter. “I’m selling exactly what the market was originally established to do,” she says. She has regular customers and gets €2.10/litre for milk.

Another long-standing stall holder is Adam Green of Kilowen Orchards, Portlaw, who has been coming to the market for over 40 years. He specialises in homegrown apples, various flavours of apple juice and cut flowers. Daffodils fill the stand from December to May, followed by peonies, alliums, alstromeria and sweet William. Irish-grown flower bulbs are also on sale in season.

It’s a family affair on Vi Russell’s home baking stand, with husband Pat and son Adam also involved. “I started here 15 years ago with one table and it’s just kept growing.”

Vi starts preparation on Wednesday and is up at 2am on Saturday morning to make scones, Danish pastries, Provençal-style tarts, baguettes and Stromboli.

She is based in Kilkishen, Co Clare, where she has a designated bakery in her home. Shortly, she will be moving nearer Limerick city, to Ballycummin, where she will do all her baking and have a small shop.

“When I started here there was only one income in it, but even through the recession things went well and now we are expanding and there’s three of us involved, so it’s been great.”

Vi also has a stand at Ennis Farmers Market on Fridays and is at the market in Killaloe on Sundays.

The Miller family from Pallaskenry have operated a stall at the Milk Market since 1955. It started with Florence, whose son Ken runs the stall today.

“Our mother sold cut flowers, eggs, home-produced bakery and vegetables and she continued to work here until I got involved in 1985. Our aim was to supply year-round and in season,” says Ken.

“Now we buy from local growers, as it gives us a better handle of profitability. I think people come here to enjoy the social side of things rather than buy commodity produce. Keeping a full cross-section of customers is important to the future of the market.”

Nelli Siebert Apeldoorn from Connolly, Co Clare, is another long-standing stalwart of 19 years selling in the Milk Market. She keeps a handful of mixed-breed sheep, whose wool she hand-shears and spins.

“I knit and design giftware that’s all from our own wool. It’s really a hobby that’s out of control, as it’s very labour-intensive and not very profitable. But it gets me out of the house and I really enjoy meeting so many people.”

Who’s shopping

Going Local catches up with some stall holders and shoppers in the market.

Radek Frost was coming off a night shift. “I usually buy eggs, fish, apples and apple juice, as well as organic vegetables and herbs. I like to buy straight from the producer and I can only do that at the market.”

“I make every effort to get to the market and if I can’t come myself, I’ll arrange for someone else to get what I want for me,” says Margaret Ferguson, who was heading to work.

“The producers are very good and consistent. There’s a great selection and it’s great to be able to support small producers. I especially like the fish, pâtés, bread and organic fruit and vegetables.”