This year is exceptionally good for crops of holly berries. Trees are laden with berries, both wild trees and in gardens.

As soon as some frosty nights arrived, birds started taking the berries and once they begin to feed, it usually does not take long to clear the trees. However, disappointing it is to lose the berries, at least they are a support to wildlife. The berries are made to be tempting and nutritious for birds and other creatures, which then carry out the role of seed distributors. And that explains why holly is to be found all over the country in hedgerows and woodlands, in wild rocky places and even popping up in gardens amid shrubs, where bird-sown seedlings are quite common.

This is the common green holly with sharp spines on the leaf edges. Sometimes, wild trees appear in unsuitable places, such as the middle of a big shrub, but occasionally a plant might take root in a spot where it can be left to grow, especially in a country garden. While it is tempting to leave it in position, there is a chance that it will turn out not to carry berries.

Trees grown from seeds do not flower until they are about 10 years old, sometimes more. Until they flower, there is no way of knowing whether the tree is male or female. Only female trees carry berries. Male trees only supply pollen, often in prodigious quantities. Some male trees occasionally carry a few female flowers and berries and there are some trees that carry both, but even these set more berries when there is another source of pollen available nearby.

Holly has always been an esteemed tree. Its ability to stay green all winter when other trees are bare was a mystery to ancient people – and not only to stay green but to produce red berries in mid-winter made it magical. But holly is largely a woodland, under-storey plant and by staying green in winter it can benefit from having the light fall on it, even at a dull time of year. In practical terms, its hard, dense, fine-grained wood was formerly used for making wheels, for instance, and sometimes even dyed black as an alternative to tropical ebony. The leaves and stems were used as fodder for livestock in hard times.

The holly tree only produces leaves with spines as a young plant and up to about head-height. After that, few spines, if any, are produced.

Such a decorative tree, it was an obvious candidate for gardens, even more so when yellow-berried and yellow and white variegated kinds turned up. Some of the names of well-known varieties can be confusing, especially if berries are wanted. ‘Silver Queen’, despite the name, is a male tree, slow-growing with pale yellow edge leaves and purple stems. ‘Golden King’ is actually a female, berrying sort with good golden-edged leaves. ‘Handsworth New Silver’ is a lovely female variety with good berrying and very pretty leaves, just edged with pale yellow and dark purple-stemmed twigs. ‘Golden Milkboy’ is not milky, it has a bright golden splash of yellow at the centre of the leaves, and it does not berry either.

There are varieties that can set their own flowers because they carry some male pollen flowers as well as female ones. One of the best is ‘JC Van Tol’ with broad glossy leaves, although it can be a bit droopy. The very upright ‘Pyramidalis’ is a complete contrast and it also sets its own berries. But pollination is never really a problem because there are so many wild male hollies and so many hollies grown in gardens too.

Holly is very easy to grow, as long as it does not get waterlogged. It needs soil that drains well but the soil need not be very good. CL

Plant some primroses

Garden primroses are in the shops already, months ahead of their wild cousins. But the garden primroses have been bred to come into flower earlier and have been given a head start in a greenhouse. Primroses are excellent for a touch of colour between now and spring. They can be planted in pots or other containers, even baskets, in the open ground in a bed or at the front of a border.

The plants are usually sold in little pots in six-packs of mixed colours, sometimes in single colours too. Results are usually better if not too many colours are used. Restricting use to one or two colours is preferable but that is really a matter of personal preference. Try to avoid wet ground, they like it well-drained. Check every so often for greenfly, which can cause problems.

Trees, shrubs and roses

If the weather and soil conditions are good, plant trees and shrubs or move plants that are only planted a few years. Roses, too, can be planted and the bedding kinds and repeat-flowering climbers can be pruned. It is a good time to tidy up fallen branches, especially dead bits that drop off trees when the wind shakes them.

Fruit, vegetables and herbs

The vegetable area can be tided, compost turned and weeds controlled. A supply of pea sticks could be gathered together, ready for sowing in March. Raspberry canes should be tied in against the possibility of wind damage. Pruning of apples and pears can be carried out. Fruit trees and bushes can be planted.

Flowers

Messy old flower stems can be tidied away or chopped up and allowed lie where they fall. It is possible to divide some kinds of perennials – clump-rooters that have died back completely below soil. Indeed it is often difficult to find these plants when the stems have rotted away late in winter. Do not lift grasses until spring.

Lawn

Take the chance to mow the lawn this month if there is a dry spell. Moss can be controlled with sulphate of iron and it is better to do it now than to wait until spring because moss grows during mild winter weather. If there are bare patches, lightly break the surface with a fork and sow some lawn seed or lay some sods.

Greenhouse and house plants

Ventilate the greenhouse during good weather to prevent rotting of plants. Do not overwater. Prune a grapevine during this dormant spell to avoid it bleeding later. Watch for pests such as greenflies on fuchsias and other greenhouse plants. Be careful not to over-water house plants and not to allow them to stand in water.