Meet the Kish monger

In Ireland, it sometimes seems like there is a perceived aversion to seafood and it is difficult to pinpoint the exact cause. Let’s face it: we are an island nation (surrounded by some of the healthiest fishing grounds in Europe) with a population who, more often than not, will always choose the beef over the hake at a wedding reception.

As Good Friday approaches – the one day of the year where the majority of Catholic households will be eating fish – Irish Country Living Food wants to celebrate the very best of our bountiful waters with a seafood-focused recipe collection to please everyone (even the most seafood-averse in your household).

To help us on our mission, we sourced our seafood from Kish Fish in Howth, Co Dublin. Here, brothers Tadgh and Damien O’Meara are keeping the family fishmonging tradition alive and well; selling fresh and prepared fish products in several locations around Co Dublin.

This has been the way since 1966, when Tadgh and Damien’s father, Tadgh Sr, started Kish Fish from a humble stall in the old Dublin Fish Market. Damien, Tadgh and their brother Bill (who sadly passed away in 2022), took over the business in the 1990s and have brought it from that small market stall to the major food service operation we see today.

Mission

Employing a team of over 100 people, Kish Fish’s wholesale business supplies a wide variety of Leinster-based restaurants and the brothers operate four retail locations in Howth, Coolock, Bow Street and in Avoca Dunboyne.

The company also creates a range of ready-to-cook meals and sauces in their Howth production kitchen, which is located in the same area as their smokehouse, their Howth shop and their café, Baily Bites.

“Working in this industry allows us to uphold family traditions that were passed down through generations since we began trading in the Old Dublin fish Market, and to provide high-quality seafood to the larger community,” Tadgh tells Irish Country Living Food.

Kish Fish's work serves multiple purposes in the wider community, from providing consumer education around seafood to supplying local businesses with freshly-made chowder. They also have Bord Bia Origin Green gold membership, which a business can only get through demonstrating exceptional performance in sustainability measures.

“We are constantly looking to push the boundaries of innovation within our industry whilst still respecting tradition," Tadgh says.

Through their prepared foods, smoked products (like their new Guinness Smoked Salmon) and extensive range of fresh seafood, encouraging consumers to try new types of fish is a particular area of interest for Tadgh and Damien. Experimenting with new flavours and techniques helps them on their quest.

“We often have tastings in our stores; showcasing ideas for consumers to prepare new dishes,” he says.

Favourite fish

Variety is key when it comes to supporting a sustainable seafood industry. A good way to support sustainable seafood is by eating more bycatch (fish caught by accident while trying to catch another type of fish), like pollock.

Tadgh says his favourite fish is probably haddock – “a beautiful white Irish fish that’s mild, flaky and versatile” – but as a fishmonger, he admits he is always a bit spoiled for choice.

“There are so many options [for great seafood dinners at home],” he says. “I suppose it depends on the occasion. A simple starter could be a few slices of smoked organic Irish salmon on homemade soda bread with a layer of cream cheese, which is absolutely delicious.

"Another option would be some John Dory fillets. John Dory is a delicious, firm-textured Irish fish. I really enjoy it pan-fried in a garlic and white wine sauce with some Dublin Bay Prawns on the side.”

For occasions like Easter, Tadgh and the rest of the O’Meara clan keep things traditional with a fish supper like the aforementioned haddock or John Dory, but he also feels that Irish home cooks shouldn’t be afraid to experiment and try something a little bit different.

“Ireland is uniquely located on the North East Atlantic and there is such a vast range of fresh seafood [available to us]," he says.

"Fish can often be caught and served on the same day for a unique sea-to-plate experience.

"Don’t be afraid," he adds. "Often, I find people are quite reluctant to try a different type of fish for fear that they won’t know how to cook it and might get it wrong. Fish is very easy to cook and with some advice from your fishmonger, any home cook can create a great fish dish this Good Friday.”

kishfish.ie

1. Plenty of fish

Try different types of fish

If you are looking for a specific type of fish to cook at home – like haddock or John Dory – and they aren’t available, don’t despair. Most fish recipes, including the ones we are sharing in this edition of Irish Country Living Food, can be made with other types of fish or seafood. Substitute salmon for Irish trout, or halibut for hake. Scallops are sweet and succulent, like crab and lobster, so any of those could be used in most scallop-focused recipes.

2. Sustainability

If you’re serious about sustainable seafood, trust an Irish fishmonger

Some types of seafood are only available seasonally, while other types of fish are not coming from Irish waters. If you get to know your local fishmonger, they can help steer you in the right direction when it comes to sustainably-sourced seafood. If you are buying fish from an Irish supermarket, you can look for the Marine Stewardship Council logo (MSC) for sustainably-sourced seafood, though local and Irish is always your best bet.

3. Glow for it

Look for fish with a healthy glow

Skin that has a bit of a sheen, fins that aren’t droopy and clear, bright eyes are all indications of freshness when purchasing whole fish.

Fresh fish shouldn’t really smell “fishy” – that is an indication of the fish not being at its freshest. Ideally, you want a fish with firm flesh, as well.

4. Ask for help

Your fishmonger won’t bite

Purchasing an entire salmon but want it filleted and portioned according to a specific recipe? Looking for sushi-grade quality or some fatty tuna or salmon for a poke bowl? Your fishmonger can help you with all of that, and more.