It’s Friday evening, the heavens open and rain teems down. With short days and a long week, in truth, the last thing we want to do is journey three hours across the country to west Cork. Realistically, calling a spade a spade, west Cork isn’t near most places.

But regardless, we travel. Not far down the N7 the rain abates and by the time we reach our destination, the evening is calm and clear. Irish Country Living is staying in the Celtic Ross Hotel in Rosscarbery.

The Celtic Ross was recently voted Ireland’s best three-star hotel and very much challenges arguments supporting star ratings in the hospitality sector. It’s far superior to many of the four stars we have stayed in. The staff are superb; overall there is a warm and welcoming atmosphere.

Straight away, with this relaxing environment, the hustle and bustle melts away and we come around to the realisation that west Cork was worth the effort after all. More than worth the effort, it is exactly what was needed.

‘Carbery’ – as the locals call it – is indescribably scenic. See, in a sense west Cork is pretty wild, with its rugged, untouched beauty. Wild often translates to freedom and it’s pretty hard not to kick back and enjoy yourself here.

The people we meet across the weekend are all genuine and down to earth. The taxi man who takes us on one of our jaunts, John ‘The Butcher’ O’Brien, would restore just about anyone’s faith in humanity. He is an encyclopaedia of local knowledge.

Warren Beach, Rosscarbery.

Celtic Ross Hotel.

Afternoon tea at the Celtic Ross.

Provenance

Right around the locality, traceability of food is paramount. Cranky and pernickety, this writer is normally not the biggest fan of afternoon tea (bits on plates), but is now a convert. Ours is served in the Tower in the Celtic Ross, which boasts stunning sea views.

Each of the mini sandwiches, scones, cakes and biscuits are delicious. The chef outlines what each piece is and the local ingredients that went into its making. As well as being the nicest afternoon tea we have sat down to, it’s the cheapest too at €17.50, making it even sweeter.

Over dinner, reading the west Cork evening tasting menu, someone remarks that the dish descriptions are very long. Irish Country Living counters that it’s not a bad thing, because the origin of every ingredient is included and most are produced within a couple of miles radius of the hotel.

One of the five dishes included on the tasting menu is a succulent pork belly. Interestingly, earlier that very same day we saw exactly where the pork came from, the Allshire’s farm five miles over the road.

Willie and Avril Allshire, along with their two sons William and Maurice, operate under the name Rosscarbery Recipes. They rear free-range pigs, producing their own range of ham, rashers, sausages and puddings in the meat processing unit on their farm.

We visit the Allshires as part of West Cork Farm Tours. Five local farmers; the Allshires, three dairy farmers and one beef farmer (the Irish Farmers Journal’s very own Tommy Moyles), came together this year to set up the initiative. The group give tours of their respective farms, ranging from tourists first visiting the countryside to industry groups.

West Cork Farm Tours link in with local hotels in providing the service. It costs €19.50 per person, with tours mostly running from April to October. Booking enquiries can be made on www.westcorkfarmtours.com.

Dinner at the Celtic Ross Hotel.

Celtic Ross Hotel.

Celtic Ross Hotel.

Sea therapy

As conveyed above, Rosscarbery and the surrounding area boasts a powerful local food sector. As does all of west Cork really. Many local companies alongside the aforementioned Rosscarbery Recipes are hugely successful; with West Cork Eggs, Irish Yoghurt and Clonakilty Black Pudding all being good examples.

But, alongside this thriving food tradition, the area is also renowned for its beaches. Regardless of the season, no visit to west Cork is complete without a beach trip or a dip, although the latter may not be advisable at this time of year.

Please note that although these beaches are beautiful to walk on, not all are suitable for swimming and a full list of lifeguarded beaches during the summer months can be found on www.iws.ie. With regard to the seascape round Rosscarbery, well, we are spoiled for choice. About a 1km walk from the town is Warren beach, a great excursion to stretch the legs after one of the many large feeds we have had.

Anyone looking for a proper stroll might consider Owenahincha, another stunning piece of sea located 2.5km from the Celtic Ross. Longstrand and Inchydoney beaches are very long walks or short drives, depending on what way you look at it.

Room prices per night at the Celtic Ross start at €80 B&B for a double room. A double room, B&B, with the west Cork tasting menu and a bottle of wine on arrival starts at €140.

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