Borris is a beautiful town sitting in south-west Carlow. It is relatively unknown – or was, at least, unknown to this Irish Country Living journalist before a recent visit.

It’s a hidden gem. The mile-long street spirals downwards and is dotted with premises that have retained their traditional shop fronts. Sitting at the top of the town, right on the road, is the Step House Hotel.

The first thing the hotel’s visitors are greeted with is a roaring fire in the lobby. A carpeted grand staircase with fancy banisters is inviting and, upon further inspection, we find it winds up three stories. The walls on each floor are adorned with paintings from bygone eras, and on the top floor a chandelier hangs from the ceiling.

Back in the lobby, The Cellar Restaurant winds down a more rickety, though charming, staircase.

The hotel feels old-world but modern. It is a four-star family-run boutique hotel and it deserves every one of its stars and more. It achieves what we deem as crucial when splashing out on a hotel break – the feeling of luxury and opulence, and service that tallies with such.

Originally the Coadys’ family home, the Step House Hotel became a hotel in 2008. And herein lies its unique selling point – staying in this hotel feels like you’re staying in a friend’s house – a friend with a really, really nice house. This is particularly true in the cocktail bar upstairs, which was once the Coadys’ living room. James and Cait Coady are the proprietors (Cait takes credit for the beautiful interiors), daughter Aisleen is in charge of sales and marketing, son Alan is the chef, and James’ sister, Mary, is involved in the day-to-day running of the hotel.

My bedroom was one fit for a princess. Upholstered armchairs, long heavy curtains and a very big bathroom. Interiors varied in colour from rich cream shades to sage green pastels, all of which had me feeling like Marie Antoinette.

In such comfortable surroundings, it’s hard to think of a reason to leave. But it’s the perfect base for exploring the beautiful surrounding countryside.

The river Barrow is about half a mile outside Borris and is popular for canoeing. On the short drive there, a beautiful 16-arch viaduct suddenly appeared on the left.

It turns out this railway bridge once carried a branch line of the Dublin to Kilkenny railway of the Great Southern and Western Company.

It was built by Arthur MacMurragh Kavanagh, a landlord in the town in the late 1800s, whose ancestors were kings of Leinster and whose descendents still live in Borris House, which is located opposite the Step House Hotel. This three-storey Tudor-style building has over 50 rooms, 17 of which can be visited on a guided tour. An icehouse, Protestant church and one of the country’s oldest golf courses can also be found on the 650-acre estate.

But back to the canoeing. This particular morning was one of those when your breath vaporised in front of you. We put on wetsuits that had, apparently, been drying all night, only to find them still damp. (I’ve learned over the years that wetsuits will always be wet.) I wondered why I hadn’t stayed in my luxurious double bed, flicked on the telly, and summoned the Saturday papers to my chamber, all the while nibbling on leftover toast from breakfast.

Canoeing

Our canoeing was more of an adventure than a sail, as we crashed down weirs and bumped through rapids, warming up quickly as we paddled frantically towards still water, while trying not to get caught in the rushes.

Fishermen out on the river in waders and khaki jackets, looked on, half impressed and half bemused by our antics. We later sat in a canal lock as our canoes quickly rose with the water, as the lock filled up like a big cold bath so that we reached the river level, allowing us to move through. Curious walkers looked over as they made their way down the beautiful walking paths along the Barrow’s banks.

Food

Ravenous from our adventures battling the great outdoors, we found the Step House Hotel did not disappoint in the food department either, but the menu is not for the faint-hearted.

The Cellar Restaurant, located in the kitchens of the original old house, is a series of interconnected rooms with archways. The evening menu on the night of our visit comprised of rabbit, venison, escargots (yes snails – grown on the snail farm of the very attentive French waitress), pork belly, wood pigeon, monkfish and scallops.

Chef Alan Coady has impressive credentials. He began his career locally before moving on to Parknasilla Resort, Ashford Castle, and then the Michelin-starred Sheen Falls Lodge. He later worked in Peacock Alley with Conrad Gallagher and with Ross Lewis at the Michelin-starred restaurant, Chapter One.

Whether you’re in the Cellar restaurant, the 1808 bar (a pub which has been in the family for five generations and still frequented by locals), or at a wedding, you’ll be served Alan’s dishes.

It’s no surprise then that such a gorgeous hotel has about 74 weddings booked so far for 2014, with very few Saturdays left.

While we’re on the subject of weddings, it you want to impress the love of your life, Valentine’s Day isn’t far away and the Step House Hotel is perfect for a romantic getaway. You heard it here first.

Overnight stays are available from €55 per person midweek (bed and breakfast) and €90 per person midweek with breakfast and one evening meal.